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Gieves and hawkes suit question

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johnnynorman3, Mar 14, 2004.

  1. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    So, I'm choosing between 2 black suits for my wedding. I have both sitting at home and am going to return one of them. I need some help deciding, and what better place than you guys (I'm going to be wearing this suit for business as well after the wedding is over). The first suit is a Gieves and Hawkes. It was tagged as a "sample" and has a Nieman Marcus label stitched in it. (The Gieves tag says "No.1 Savile Row"). I looked in the pocket and it is made in the USA by union workers (USA made doesn't bother me per se -- see for example Oxxford). The second suit is a Gianfranco Ferre Studio. It is a Super 120s made in Italy. (The Gieves doesn't have a thread count on it, by the way, but the material is very soft and has less "texture" than the Ferre suit. The Ferre suit seems like a "crepe" material). So, personally I like the fit of the Gieves a little bit better, although they both fit perfectly. But my real concern is quality -- which one of these suits is going to hold up longer, and better, and which one is constructed better? I've been trying to feel for full-canvasing, etc., but I'm just no good at doing that. [​IMG] Can anyone help? FYI -- I got both for the same unbelievably bargain price of $299..................
     


  2. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    While in London I checked out some RTW Gieves and Hawkes suits at Selfridge's, and I have to say the fit is by far the best I've seen in RTW; keep in mind I have the build of a runway model though. The quality seemed nice as well.

    The Ferre Studio line I believe is a diffusion line, and of decent quality; probably along the lines of Hugo Boss suits. I'd keep the GandH. Also, where did you find GandH suits in the US... especially for $299???
     


  3. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I have the build of a runway model as well. (Though not tall enough.). I agree that the fit of the G and H was just absolutely fantastic. The slope and width of the shoulder, combined with the waist suppression was just perfect for me. I also found the length of the jacket more flattering on me.

    I think I'm strongly leaning towards keeping the G and H. The only thing that would turn me the other way is if someone said that the Ferre was much better construction.

    FYI, I got the G and H at Filenes Basement in Boston. I think it was just random that the store carried it, and so that's why the price was so low (it was tagged at $399, but they had a sale this weekend where you got $100 off all suits). Totally ridiculous find.

    That's interesting that you think that the GF is similar to Hugo Boss, because I actually think that the cut of the suit is very similar (a little less waist suppression, for instance). I personally think the quality of the GF is very good (the salesguy pushed me away from a much higher priced Vestimenta when I towards the GF because he thought it was actually better made). But everything about the G and H tells me this is the better choice. The lapels on the G and H have a fantastic roll -- they almost "spring" back to a roll when you press down on them.
     


  4. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

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    The Gieves model was made by Hickey Freeman; they have/had a license to make suits under the Gieves name in the US. I dare say its construction is superior to that of the Ferre.
    Given that it's your wedding, go with the one that looks better on you; construction is going to affect the durability and long-term appearance of the suits, but for wearing at your wedding you should worry about which looks better today. If the look is truly equivalent, go G&H.
     


  5. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    The Gieves suit is going to be better. I was actually at Filene's Basement looking at those suits (maybe we were looking at the same one.) and the construction and material was definitely better than on the GFF Studio's I saw there. BTW, all the salesmen at Filene's basement are cretins with no idea about their product, and they are generally not too friendly to boot. One of them tried to tell me once that John Varvatos ran Cole Haan at one point. I just nodded and smiled. And as for steering you away from the Vestimentas, I think that they've had those Gianfranco Ferre Studio suits for a long time, and are looking to unload them.
     


  6. Wakehurst

    Wakehurst New Member

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    In London, the suits offered under the G&H label at 1 Savile Row are made by a very broad range of suppliers including Brioni, and the fit varies accordingly. Really the only 'pure' suit they offer is through their bespoke service, made in-house.

    That said, they have high standards to maintain with the brand and so anything with their label will be at least mid to high end quality.
     


  7. fareau

    fareau Senior member

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    Since moving to Houston from New England, I think that one of the places I miss most is Filene's Basement. The deals could be hit or miss, but when they were good...wow, they were good. Case in point: Gieves and Hawkes for $299. O.K., sorry about the digression, just needed to wax nostalgic.
     


  8. PeterMetro

    PeterMetro Senior member

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    Too bad Ted is gone - he must have had 40 years under his belt before he retired. My father introduced me to him when I was around 13. That guy not only knew clothes, but knew his inventory and his customer's tastes and sensibilities. He once left me a voicemail that said "Cerutti, 3 button, no vents, flat front, on markdown." Didn't say who it was - didn't have to. I was there within hours; he had put it aside for me and I picked it up for 250 bucks.
     


  9. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    Interestingly enough, I was also at Filene's Basement (in DC) this past weekend and ran across their suit sale. The Gieves and Hawkes suits I saw were nice, but the fact that they are fused was a deal killer for me. To my surprise, Filene's also had in stock Brioni, Canali, and Zegna Napoli Couture suits. (If I only was a 46L.) I ended up buying a charcoal Zegna "Su Misura" for $599. From this forum, I have learned that Su Misura is Zegna's MTM line, and indeed, the name of the person for whom the suit was made was stitched on the
     


  10. HRHAndrew

    HRHAndrew Senior member

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    I am a 46L Want to make a trip for me? [​IMG]
     


  11. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    Presumably Filene's, Loehmann's, etc. is probably where a lot of the eBay sellers acquire their wares.
     


  12. housemaidsknee

    housemaidsknee Senior member

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    so what would be a good price to pay for a gieves? filenes has them for $299 - is that a good price?
     


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