Gianluca sportcoat

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Pink22m, Mar 12, 2006.

  1. Pink22m

    Pink22m Senior member

    Messages:
    772
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2003
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    I was at the Nordstrom rack today, and discovered a beautiful 3 button blue sportcoat by Gianluca. The sportcoat is a 60/40 cotton/wool blend, side vented, and has pick stitching, with the lapels rolling to the second button. It also has larger patch type pockets on both sides down near the hem. I am normally a 36R, and this coat was a 38S. I tried it on three times with a dress shirt underneath, and it seemed to fit me quite well. Because of my ambivalence, I decided I would think it over tonight and go back tomorrow if I wanted to still get it. The garment seems to be priced quite well; the sticker says $239, but there is a further 30% reduction off of that price, which would make the coat around $170 or so after tax. I noticed that the garment also is designed for working sleeve buttons, but I found no trace of the buttons in the pockets. Would it be relatively easy for a tailor to get a set of buttons to put on that would match closely with the current buttons on the coat? If so, I am seriously considering getting this coat, as it would be perfect for the spring.
     


  2. ranchsooner

    ranchsooner Senior member

    Messages:
    263
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2006
    Location:
    Twin Cities
    You could contact Isaia directly and they could send you the matching buttons. You would just need to give them the numbers on the inside of the tag that correspond with the right fabric and model. They can direct you as to what and where that is.
     


  3. Pink22m

    Pink22m Senior member

    Messages:
    772
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2003
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    Do I have any other options? There is no guarantee that Isaia still has those matching buttons, and I doubt they would be willing to send me them for a coat I found at the Rack, although I have never directly corresponded with a venerable clothing company in that fashion, so might be wrong.
     


  4. Roger

    Roger Senior member

    Messages:
    1,936
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2005
    Location:
    Vancouver
    This thread raises a question for me. I understand that the Gianluca line is made by Isaia, and that it is a less-expensive line than the garments bearing the Isaia name. My question is about the quality of the Gianluca garments. How good are they? I know that Isaia would be considered one of the top Neapolitan tailors and assume that Isaia-branded suits, etc., would be of extremely high quality. How much of a drop-off is there with the Gianluca line?
     


  5. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

    Messages:
    1,019
    Likes Received:
    166
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Paris & SF
    Would it be relatively easy for a tailor to get a set of buttons to put on that would match closely with the current buttons on the coat? If so, I am seriously considering getting this coat, as it would be perfect for the spring.

    This should be relatively easy, IMHO. Check out Escobar Tailors. They have an extensive inventory of fabric swatches, so I would imagine they have the buttons to complement all manner of colors. They do terrific alteration work, btw.
     


  6. Pink22m

    Pink22m Senior member

    Messages:
    772
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2003
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    Yes, although contacting Isaia wouldn't be a bad idea, it seems rather extreme for getting a set of buttons. Where would I find Escobar Tailors? Are they online, or are they a chain of shops? Thanks for the recommendation. The more I can be assured of this, the more I will most likely go back and get that sportcoat!

    By the way, would Escobar be able to do the working buttons? I heard there is a special tailor that you have to go to that has a special machine to do them.
     


  7. Pink22m

    Pink22m Senior member

    Messages:
    772
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2003
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    I found Escobar's website. They seem pretty reputable, and have a few locations here in San Francisco. Have you taken any of your garments to them for alterations? I will definetely check them out. Thanks again for the recommendation!
     


  8. HRHAndrew

    HRHAndrew Senior member

    Messages:
    295
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2003
    Location:
    Holland, MI (Most of the Time)
    In terms of quality, I think that the Gianluca items are pretty well made. They are clearly a step down from the Isaia line, and are fused which is a problem for most of us here. But of all of the fused pieces our there, the Gianluca stuff are some of the best.
     


  9. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

    Messages:
    5,663
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    This thread raises a question for me. I understand that the Gianluca line is made by Isaia, and that it is a less-expensive line than the garments bearing the Isaia name. My question is about the quality of the Gianluca garments. How good are they? I know that Isaia would be considered one of the top Neapolitan tailors and assume that Isaia-branded suits, etc., would be of extremely high quality. How much of a drop-off is there with the Gianluca line?

    This is a situation that needs clarity:

    Look at the label. Which does it look like?

    1) Gian Luca Napoli, with a blue tag, like this:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Olive-Tan-GianLu...QQcmdZViewItem

    2) Gianluca Isaia Napoli, with a tag like this:
    [​IMG]

    Number 1 is fused and is not made by Isaia. It is nice clothing but not to be compared to Number 2.

    Number 2 is canvassed and made by Isaia.
     


  10. HRHAndrew

    HRHAndrew Senior member

    Messages:
    295
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2003
    Location:
    Holland, MI (Most of the Time)
    I believe that the Gianluca line is a company line of Isaia. I am sure there are more, but here are the Isaia lines that I am aware of:
    Enrico Isaia - Blue Tag not pictured.
    Gianluca Isaia - Black Tag Above
    Gianluca Napoli - Blue Tag Above
     


  11. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

    Messages:
    4,078
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    U.S.A.
    Would it be relatively easy for a tailor to get a set of buttons to put on that would match closely with the current buttons on the coat?

    You could go to Tender Buttons and pick out some matching buttons.

    http://www.urbanstyle.com/localscene...er/default.htm
     


  12. Roger

    Roger Senior member

    Messages:
    1,936
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2005
    Location:
    Vancouver
    Johnapril and HRHAndrew, I'm thinking of the blue label with the words "Gian Luca Napoli," with the "Gian" and the "Luca" staggered and on two lines, with the word "Napoli" in smaller letters underneath, like the blue label above, and appearing on a cashmere/wool blend overcoat. EBay seller "Nitr-o" sells a lot of this line. My impression had been that it was just a lower-priced line made by Isaia. True or false? And, if anyone knows, is the quality good in this line?
     


  13. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

    Messages:
    5,663
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Johnapril and HRHAndrew, I'm thinking of the blue label with the words "Gian Luca Napoli," with the "Gian" and the "Luca" staggered and on two lines, with the word "Napoli" in smaller letters underneath, like the blue label above, and appearing on a cashmere/wool blend overcoat. EBay seller "Nitr-o" sells a lot of this line. My impression had been that it was just a lower-priced line made by Isaia. True or false? And, if anyone knows, is the quality good in this line?

    False. Gian Luca Napoli does not have the word "Isaia" in it, does it? It is a trick to the eye. Just before the site crashed, someone in the know explained that Gian Luca Napoli is entirely unrelated to the company that produces Isaia.
     


  14. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

    Messages:
    5,663
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Johnapril and HRHAndrew, I'm thinking of the blue label with the words "Gian Luca Napoli," with the "Gian" and the "Luca" staggered and on two lines, with the word "Napoli" in smaller letters underneath, like the blue label above, and appearing on a cashmere/wool blend overcoat. EBay seller "Nitr-o" sells a lot of this line. My impression had been that it was just a lower-priced line made by Isaia. True or false? And, if anyone knows, is the quality good in this line?

    Gian Luca Napoli is OK. I have 1 suit by them. It is not very soft tailoring. And it is fused. To be honest, I like my Armani Collezioni suit a little better.
     


  15. HRHAndrew

    HRHAndrew Senior member

    Messages:
    295
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2003
    Location:
    Holland, MI (Most of the Time)
    I think we are all speaking of the same items. John, can you point me to the article that states they are made by someone other than the Isaia company. I remember reading a trade article that stated differently. Also at the same time there were some other Style Forum old timers who were a bit disappointed by the development of fused lines by both Isaia and Barbera.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by