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GETTING THE TROUSER LENGTH RIGHT

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by a tailor, Aug 26, 2012.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    At the clothing store you must let the tailor know where you want the length.

    Your foot's instep is one of the things that controls this. A very narrow trouser leg will hit the higher part of the instep. A wider bottom will reach the lower part of the instep. Its your choice.

    Also, the upper part of the trouser should be altered before the length is adjusted. Then being fitted the belt must be on and cinched up to the degree that you normally wear it. If you dont have two different leg lengths the fitter will mark only one leg.

    For the person that has different leg lengths, the fitter will mark one leg. Then he will take a short stick, place one end on the floor behind one leg and mark the leg at the top of the stick, and repeat it on the other leg. when the trousers are on the cutting table being marked for cuffs
    the two marks will show the different leg lengths. If you do not inform the fitter that you need two different lengths, he will assume that both legs are the same. We all know about the low shoulder and high hip. That high hip is going to be your longer leg.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2016


  2. unclesam099

    unclesam099 Senior Member

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    Very informative as usual! Thanks!

    I actually have trouble making the hem straight in some cases - is there a good trick to do this once my wife has marked the pants for me? It is especially difficult when the wool or linen is light!
     


  3. yywwyy

    yywwyy Distinguished Member

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    What are your opinions on the amount of break? I feel like there's a very pleasing ratio with the leg opening width, when hitting close to the 3rd or 4th lace hole, that works with no break. It seems to make the trousers look very straight without looking short when walking.
     


  4. MarshMan114

    MarshMan114 Member

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    Could you also comment on proper circumference of the pant leg at the shoe? Should there be any taper down the leg? I have a few suits off the rack that I feel like I am swimming in with my legs (28 years old, 6'1 and 175lb). I really don't want the skinny jeans look, but I feel like I am an "old man who doesn't know how to shop".

    Any rules of thumb on this and the break (asked earlier)?
     


  5. a tailor

    a tailor Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    I will do a DIY tutorial on this.

    all you need is one mark on the front crease. did she mark around the bottom?
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2012


  6. a tailor

    a tailor Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Some want a straight crease even if means that sox show when walking.
    some are ashamed of showing their sox like a womans petty coat showing.
    its ones personal taste that decides
    true though the wider trouser bottom is made longer than a narrow bottom.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2012


  7. a tailor

    a tailor Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    It should be what your comfortable with.
    Try having one p[air taken in at the bottom with the leg tapered to nothing at the hip
    on the out seam, and the same to nothing at the crotch.
    If you like the result then do the other trousers.
    Just remember that if you wear a very large size shoe., and you make the trouser
    narrow your feet will appear still larger.
     


  8. hookem12387

    hookem12387 Distinguished Member

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    What are your thoughts on a (using the wrong words, here, I'm afraid) slanted hem to make the no break look a bit easier, while also not showing too much sock.
     


  9. a tailor

    a tailor Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Thats fine but there is limit to how slanted you can go before the slant becomes awkward looking.
    Also a steep slant complicates the tailoring [read time $$$$].
    Despos did one on this.check the tutorials.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2012


  10. StumpjumperE

    StumpjumperE Senior Member

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    I like nearly straight across on the hem (maybe just the slightest 'slant') and I wear my trousers a little short. You can definitely see sock when walking, I LIKE IT!
     


  11. Joker Man

    Joker Man Senior Member

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    It's very simple. The hem width depends on your shoe size which is relative to your height. You're likely around a size 11 shoe so the hem should be 17-17.5. The trousers should touch the top of your shoes and be pitched 3/4 " in the rear. Try anything else and you'll either look like a sloppy old man with breaking pants or some stupid looking kid in a zoot suit.
    Another thing which seems to be ignored here. Get trousers that are the right rise for your body. You don't want a high rise if it doesn't suit you because the trousers will always feel like they're falling off and feel baggy in the thigh. Or too short a rise if you need more room.
    I have a feeling that most boys on here are ectomorphs with poor builds and bone structure because they can never get clothes to fit right.
     


  12. chogall

    chogall Distinguished Member

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    Interesting. Is there a general guideline/forumla in calculating hem width when given shoe size? 80% of shoe length/size?

    what do you mean by pitched 3/4" in the rear?
     


  13. unclesam099

    unclesam099 Senior Member

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    While I am wearing the trousers and a longwing shoe, she marks at the top of the brouging, or about 3/4 to 1 inch above the top of the heel, as my left leg is 1/8 to 1/4 inch longer. That allows me to (usually) hem my trousers for my irregularities.
     


  14. a tailor

    a tailor Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    the widest bottom should be no more than enough to cover the lacing area.
    that is unless your shoe is a size 22.
    remember that as it gets narrower it climbs up your instep.
    then consider how short a length you want.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2013


  15. Eric Michael

    Eric Michael Senior Member

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    Very informative thread... maybe you can help me out!
    I measure about 5'7-8" and am looking to buy more high-waisted trousers, as I find they produce a more statuesque silhouette since the pant hangs longer on the body and thus falls cleaner, creating a taller look.
    Trouble is, I can't seem to find many companies making trousers in this style. I would concede that it is probably an older style (think of the 30s and some of the 70s)... but if you look at what Tom Ford is doing with most of his trousers, it's generally a high-waisted design- and I will follow him to the graves.
    Any advice on how/where to get high-waisted trousers in my area, or at least how to replicate the look (perhaps with the length of the jacket)?
    Thanks!
     


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