Getting over the casual double-breasted jacket hump

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by razl, Jul 31, 2014.

  1. razl

    razl Senior member

    Messages:
    9,987
    Likes Received:
    2,070
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2009
    Location:
    United States of America v4.0
    First, I'm very aware of the "if you have to ask, you're probably not ready for it yet" rule, but I'm at a tipping point.

    Last year I added my first db jacket to the stable - a grey flannel odd jacket by Rake. For me, I wear a jacket to work but it comes off when I arrive. Since I'm not in it all day, it allowed me to spread my db wings a bit without having to fully commit. The few times in the waning season I got to wear it I very much liked it.

    Now I'm smitten with a db casual jacket. My hesitation is that, unlike the odd jacket that is only worn to and from work, wearing it casually means it'll be on a lot more of time; there's no wearing it here-and-there and hanging it up in between, it'll be full-on DB mode, and in casual settings. That means taking the plunge for real and, well, here I sit on the fence.

    I'm looking for some success stories from those who had made it over the hump to hang my hat on and pull the trigger. Anyone?
     
  2. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

    Messages:
    5,803
    Likes Received:
    615
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2007
    Location:
    Venezia, Italy
    I have owned a few double breasted odd jackets and they need to be very casual in order to pull them off completely.

    The problem, for me, arises in the small amount of shirt space shown above the lapels. It's very hard to make it look right, and the same goes with a double breasted overcoat. I think that if you can't put a tie there it looks good hiding the shirt with a jumper or a scarf. What looks even better is a tall necked jumper, yet obviously that can begin to look a bit costume unless you do it right (dark colours etc).

    So basically I ended up just using them as layering and more often than not wearing them open with my hands in the pockets and for that to work you need quite an unstructured coat.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2014
  3. razl

    razl Senior member

    Messages:
    9,987
    Likes Received:
    2,070
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2009
    Location:
    United States of America v4.0
    Good info and food for thought, thanks Ich.

    Still hoping for some more gents to share their "over the hump" tidbits so I can gather enough confidence to join the club...
     
  4. Stiva

    Stiva Senior member

    Messages:
    428
    Likes Received:
    153
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2013
    I had the same mental block until about two months ago, when I bought a double-breasted casual that had all the attributes that makes an item like that work. I agree with ID that they must be very casual to succeed.

    First, mine is unlined and unstructured. No padding at all.

    Secondly, it is 50% cotton and 50% linen which gives it a casual texture and look.

    Thirdly, it is a plain blue a few shades lighter than navy. This makes it look less costume-y, makes it more versatile, and avoids people thinking, "There he is in that red seersucker double-breasted again".

    Fourthly, it is slightly snugger in fit than I would wear in a more formal piece.

    I wear it mostly with blue and pink OCBDs - stripes and solids. Goes great with white, bone, tan and grey pants - linen or cotton. Might also work with grey fresco. I haven't worn it with a tie, but it could work that way if needed.
     
  5. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

    Messages:
    3,606
    Likes Received:
    3,112
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2011
    Location:
    Ontario
    I got an even more casual DB than @stiva just recently - an unconstructed and unlined 6 x 2 in a grey open weave wool-cotton jersey, made by Ring Jacket, who make some the best unconstructed jackets in the world IMHO. Looks great but I haven't really worn it properly yet as it's just a little too warm for high summer...
     
  6. Stiva

    Stiva Senior member

    Messages:
    428
    Likes Received:
    153
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2013
    Love the Rings, but they just don't make them in my 58 long size. I'm almost ashamed to say that mine is an Armani Black Label - which I know isn't a SF favourite - but it fitted so well and was such a good price I couldn't let it go. Haven't regretted the purchase.
     
  7. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

    Messages:
    3,606
    Likes Received:
    3,112
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2011
    Location:
    Ontario
    If it fits and it looks good...

    As for Ring Jacket, yes, you're right - unless you can find models that have been made specifically for a western retailer. But I'm short. [​IMG]
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by