hey ranger.. . heres what you need for your long walk. after the overcoat is finished. put it on while wearing of your suit coat. then turn up the collar so that it is as snug as you wish against the weather. have the lapels lie flat in their protective position, the tailor then marks where the left lapel buttonhole is at. he then sews that "storm button" in place on the right side. the facings are double thickness, with one on top of another. thats 4 layers of cloth protecting your chest up to your neck. when the collar and lapel is in its normal position the "storm" button is hidden. this works for single as well as double breast. hope everyone here reads this, and protects themselves this way.