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Germanicos- Bespoke Suits

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by qwertyas, Mar 14, 2011.

  1. PapaRubbery

    PapaRubbery Senior member

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    Jul 26, 2012
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    What measurements did they take?

    What did you ask for? What size lapels, how many buttons, what canvass construction, what shoulders, what sleeve buttons, how many sleeve buttons, how high rise are the trousers, what mill does the fabric come from?

    Did you pay for everything up front?
     
  2. BenjiRob

    BenjiRob Member

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    Dec 13, 2013
    

    I mentioned that I got their top shelf suit, and had a pattern and toile made which had 2 fittings before anything was stitched, Patterns were tweaked and after the suit was stitched there was another fitting with minor tweaks to get it 100% and to also add the sleeves, this all took place over about 6 weeks. But you don't listen Papa.

    If you weren't definately a troll Papa you would ask a novice such as Shane, what shape the lapel was before the width? Are the sleeve buttons working like they should on a bespoke suit compared to a MTM? Rather than the rise of trouser, you would ask if he had pleats or not?
    Rather the technical question only a troll of another tailor would ask to a novice about canvass construction, you would ask what shape pockets he had and if there was a ticket.

    They were taking measurements from me for the better part of 20 mins must have been more than 30. During the measurements there was constant discussion about the shoulders and fit around certain parts of my body. The fabric mill is clearly on the books they show you, I got dormeuil England out of the summer Amadeus bunch, this was in the Germanicos platinum range, as I understand it they are dormeuil premium supplier in Australia, this is one of the top mills in the world! For styling we went through every process and discussed it in detail, I paid 50% deposit and balance on completion.

    Shane came on asking for advice on this brand, I had something to add with my positive experience with germanicos and then came along all the trolls of other tailors who have never experienced anything there and are suddenly experts in the field. Why don't you disclose the tailor you work for Papa?
     
  3. PapaRubbery

    PapaRubbery Senior member

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  4. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    On the Monaro, NSW.
    Papa isn't a troll I can assure you and doesn't work for any tailors and neither is wraith (though a client of Zink and sons I believe), but I must say the subsequent guilt before trial of Germanico's is a little embarrassing to see from one Aussie to another, even more so given no one from Germanico's has been giving the chance to set the record straight or are even aware of this threads existence. So to try and get a bit of clarity I've emailed them a link to the thread and if they want to comment or not will be up to them.

    The term bespoke is widely misused over the whole industry as are many others like calling your fitters "tailors" and Germanico's certainly wouldn't be the first to do so if this is the case. Anyway we shall see what they say (if anything). In the meantime guys, lets wait till we get the facts.

    Cheers
    Jason
     
    2 people like this.
  5. PapaRubbery

    PapaRubbery Senior member

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    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    In the interests of full disclosure, I am a happy customer of Jason's.

    I've purchased maybe half a dozen ties off him, and half a dozen socks.

    He takes the approach of selling his product through pictures and being up front with his customers. You know exactly what you're getting when you buy one of his ties. He, and the vast bulk of affiliates on SF, operate on the principle of letting the quality of their products/work shine through. The level of after sales service on display is exemplary, and I don't buy in store anymore as nothing comes close.
     
  6. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    Australia
    This is a two year old thread, remember. Germanicos is hardly a new outfit. I've looked into them before. Nothing new here.

    I have been a customer of Zink & Sons in the past. I'm currently a customer of Shanghai C&G/Amy Yang, and that's MTM, not that that has anything to do with the subject at hand here.

    The only trolls (and shills) in this thread are the likes of BenjiRob, Shane and the like, not PapaRubbery (and certainly not myself).
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2014
  7. Shane 101

    Shane 101 Member

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    Location:
    Australia
    Will try to explain the best I can, keeping in mind I dont have the vocabulary for this field. The guy took over 20 plus measurements and spent 2 plus hrs there deciding on the details
    I chose a charcoal grey fabric in 120's wool that has a slight sheen under natural light. The fabric has a fine (check) pattern with more vertical line which im told would give me a taller appearance. Im right handed so he said they would compensate with slightly more padding on the left side, and I wear I watch on the left and took a measurement for that.I chose notched lapels, horizontal pockets minus ticket pocket, two buttons on front, four buttons per cuff. For the lining I chose paisley royal blue with charcoal pipping.
    The pants I opted to go with no pleats, double vertical belt loops with back pocket.
    And for a personal touch, embroidered in script on the inside jacket lining says this is specifically made for me.
    I sure I left alot out, but it was alot to take in.
    He was very professional, they asked me for 50% up front, I was happy to pay in full.
     
  8. iSurg

    iSurg Senior member

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    Melbourne
    Glad to see some progress on this thread. Please post photos, Shane, or it will be all for nought.

    My disclosures: WWChan, Peter Lee, PJohnson, Boggi Milano, Al Bazar.
     
  9. Shane 101

    Shane 101 Member

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    Location:
    Australia
    [​IMG]

    The only photo thus far which shows my chosen fabric, pipping & lining.
     
  10. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Ok guys I had a reply from John Tellis, Director of Germanicos and he had this to say -

    I was forwarded your email from my PA, please excuse my delayed response I am currently in Italy & England buying the new seasons fabrics.

    I would like to thank you for the heads up about this thread, it has been interesting reading.

    I would like to confirm that we are bespoke tailors and make a unique pattern by hand for each and every customer. We place major importance on the unique pattern of each suit and we have as many fittings as are required to fit the customer perfectly. In stark contrast to what one blogger mentioned that we only have one fitting, this is incorrect and next to impossible for an impeccable fit. We have as many fittings that are required to fit each customer perfectly generally 3-4 fittings.

    We fit many people with difficult bodies which would be next to impossible for a MTM tailor to achieve. For instance we have several customers that are confined to their wheelchairs all day and can't walk, their jackets and trousers need to be constructed in a totally different way or customers with a chest size of 100+ inches, there are no patterns for these bodies, you have to draw them and use experience to get everyone fitted perfectly. I'd be happy to send through some images based on the customers consenting to this.

    As I do not return for another 7 days, if you could convey this for me that would be great as time is of essence here and I am extremely busy.

    Kind regards

    John Tellis

    Director - Germanicos Bespoke Tailors
     
  11. Dapperdaniel

    Dapperdaniel New Member

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    Jan 23, 2015
    Location:
    Perth, Australia
    This thread seems to have come to a sudden end after the last post in November 2014 - I wonder if anyone has any further comments on Germanicos, particularly in Perth?

    I ask because I really need some new suits and have been very disappointed by the money I lost with the sudden closure of Joseph Anthony Bespoke last week.
     
  12. JZBstyle

    JZBstyle New Member

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    Hey Daniel,
    I'm also in Perth and was bitten by Joseph Anthony sudden closure and lost a deposit on a suit, I was a customer there for years and was relatively happy as that is all i knew.
    As I really needed a suit, I decided to have a crack at another tailor "Germanicos Bespoke Tailors".

    Daniel - I'm so pissed off I wasted years at Joseph Anthony and spent a shit load of money. The suit that Germanicos made me smashed it out the water! and was about 30% lesser cost (for the EXACT SAME, fabric mill i used to buy from Joseph Anthony)

    Contrary to what some people say on here, which had me sceptical about Germanicos. I can advise that I had 4 fittings and they were fussier than me in tweaking things. The suit WAS canvassed and they now have a PATTERN for me, not just measurements like bloody Joseph Anthony used to have and not have any consistency.

    Germanicos knows what they are doing, are extremely knowledgeable and that's why they are the biggest tailor in the country with a presence in each city. Put it this way Daniel, you will not be dissapointed!

    I hope that helped.....
     
  13. Dapperdaniel

    Dapperdaniel New Member

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    Location:
    Perth, Australia
    Thanks for the comment Justin. Can I ask how recently you went to Germancos? And did you go to their Central Park room or did they come to you?

    Daniel
     
  14. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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  15. Dapperdaniel

    Dapperdaniel New Member

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    Perth, Australia
    Well I'm not a shill. I just want to get information. That's why I'm asking.
     
  16. mzmart

    mzmart Active Member

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    May 1, 2010
    Well folks I am going to renew this thread. Ordered a Germanicos "gold' package suit. $2200. Lots of measurements done but not by the actual tailor. First (only?) fitting happening in two days time. Now, I've had plenty of real bespoke made before eg Cutler, Zink etc. So you'll get an honest unbiased view. At this time my working hypothesis is that it's 'semi bespoke' ie I did get to choose style that you can't with MTM but the process does seem truncated.

    We shall see.
     
  17. mzmart

    mzmart Active Member

    Messages:
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    May 1, 2010
    Well, the suit arrived and I had a fitting on Saturday.

    Not too bad in terms of fit, although a standard issue with my shoulder wasn't addressed.

    Style - not what I wanted, too fitted and button stance too high. But I won't hold it against them for a first suit with a new tailor.

    Construction - sees OK.

    Overall:
    This is a semi-bespoke service. It goes beyond MTM in terms of flexibility and fit. But its not a full, painstaking, bespoke process, with, especially, a missing first fitting having impact.

    Would I go there again? Not at the $2200 (Gold) rate. Maybe at the Silver ($1600) rate. The main difference being that the Silver is mainly constructed in Portugal, as opposed to Melbourne for the Gold and above. Given that I'm not in Melbourne, it doesn't really bother me whether the work's done there or not.

    But its not all over yet - lets wait and see how the suit wears and what, if any, after service is provided if problems develop,
     
  18. sensuki

    sensuki Member

    Messages:
    10
    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2016
    I also had a casual shirt made by Germanicos.

    The first shirt for a customer must be the "premium" option which is ~$290 AUD

    My consultation was with Michael Tellis.

    I was after something inherently casual and good for winter, I flipped through all of the fabric books and opted for a heavyweight grey oxford fabric with irregularities from one of the books they don't use too often. I'm not sure of the weight, but I think it's at least 6.5oz, maybe heavier.

    Michael said I was the first customer to ask for a shirt that wouldn't be worn with a suit or jacket, and also the first to order a heavyweight shirting fabric. He admitted they'd never ordered the fabric I chose before.

    I believe 14 or 15 measurements were taken, as well as photos of front back and both sides. I chose the options I wanted on their iPad app, and Michael suggested I go with their "Regular fit" and suggested black stitching for the buttonholes.

    I'm not 100% sure if my shirt was made in Melbourne or not, but Michael did say that their offsite inhouse tailors are located in Pascoe Vale.

    It took 5 weeks for the shirt to be completed.

    I asked for Mother of Pearl buttons, but instead I was given black on white pearlescent buttons made from a resin (I think). I can see why they were chosen as they match the shirt and the black buttonhole stitching. I would have preferred the use of a natural material but I didn't explicitly state that.

    The shirt seems well constructed. French seams, very neat stitching and good stitch density. The collar and cuff are quite stiff from the french fuse they used and there is also french fuse used in the placket.

    Michael said that I should take the shirt home, wear it and wash it a few times before coming back for adjustments.

    Unfortunately out of the box, the shirt armholes are too high and cause a few issues with arm movement. It's also too tight in the chest and upper back. The fabric itself is quite stiff and doesn't have much give to it, I haven't worn it out yet but I'm going to give it a few wears over the coming weeks and then take it back.

    Michael did say that if I wasn't happy with the shirt, that they'd make me another one - so I will probably be going back in and asking for that because of the overall tightness. Now at least I know what I want the most - full range of arm movement. I will report back after I go in for "adjustments" and see what they're willing to do.

    I agree with mzmart about this being a semi-bespoke service. They do say they make a pattern from scratch, however the cutter and shirt maker are not the same person and at least for a shirt, for non-VIP customers, there is no fitting - just measurements and final product plus adjustments. As I said I have not been in for my adjustments yet, so I will let you guys know how that goes after I go see them again.

    My preference would be for the pieces that need to be re-made to be remade with a lower armhole, more room in the chest and upper back, more tapering at the lower back and I think due to the fabric weight, I will wear the shirt out instead of tucked, so a shorter hem at the back.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2016
  19. mzmart

    mzmart Active Member

    Messages:
    30
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    May 1, 2010
    Just to round this off. Shoulder fixed and suit taken home. Nice enough final fit. Got the style a bit wrong but that's my fault for not being insistent. Yeah Ok overall. But ......a bit overpriced. Overall rating 7/10.
     

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