George Cleverley Anthony Cleverley Models

[Leaves]



This IS obvious from EG (UK & US sizing/half size difference/888 last is dead giveaway). The OP said the shoes he had found at a local shop has a SIMILAR oval window as the picture provided. And the shoes are from GC's benchmade line, NOT AC line. This makes me doubt the shoes were made by EG as the prices for GC's benchmade are significantly lower than EG's.
+1. My Grenson MP has a similar oval window as well.

My Anthony Cleverley has a window, but not really an oval shape.

And my AC does not look anything like EG. Of course, EG could have the capacities doing something very differently as its usual offerings.

I stand corrected.

 

[Son Of Saphir]



If you have seen a pair of AC shoes, you will know that it is distinctively Cleverley and in no way looks like an EG or even EG TD.

 

[Will]

There is a bit of misinformation in this thread. If it helps clarify:

Cleverly has two ready to wear lines. The low end are made by third parties like C&J, by machine. Very few of them make it to the U.S. but the sell like mad in Japan.

The Anthony Cleverly are made in a variety of workrooms to a much higher standard. They are mostly hand made but not entirely. The soles are attached by machine (attaching them by hand would make ACs the most expensive RTW shoes on earth). The make in my opinion is as good as EG's best. Canted heels, beveled waists, toe brads, etc.

 

[Jmm722]

I came across a mint condition pair of Thomas double monks in calf. What line were they from? They're in very good condition and available for $225 at a secondhand store

 

[rallyx]

That's the GC line, entry level made by CJ.

 

[Mr Tewkesbury]

In an attempt to revive this thread - Pasadena

 

[clee1982]

anyone ever found out the maker? Thought the consenus is GC is CJ while AC is no idea...

 

[George_11235]

anyone ever found out the maker? Thought the consenus is GC is CJ while AC is no idea...

Another revival
AC is made mostly in house from what I've been told, but that was changed to accommodate for popularity. Trees are made by the same maker as the bespokes I think.

 

[Terrence O'Connor]

Hague model in tan calf

 

[George_11235]

I was at the EG factory shop last week and saw a bunch of AC boxes. Didn't have the cheek to ask to look inside them, but I presume they are finished shoes. Guess that confirms it then! Possibly finished and boxed by Edward Green!

 

[wurger]

I have purchased a few pairs of Lazymans in the past, but I have always wanted the original: Churchill by G.J. Cleverley. This style was a George Cleverley invention and he made it for Sir Winston Churchill.

The Churchill is a covered elastic sided imitation full brogue with faux lacing, this model is a slip-on masquerading as an oxford. Imitation full brogue refers to the fact the entire wingtip broguing is achieved by perforating the one piece of upper rather than adding an overlapping layer, a bigger piece of quality cut is required. Faux lacing is created by one piece of leather strap going up zigzag and glued between the upper and lining.

The Churchill is crafted on the smart square toe AC last, part of the Anthony Cleverley line. The distinctive chisel square last pays homage to the bespoke style of master shoemaker Anthony Cleverley; each style is named for the distinguished client who first commissioned it. All AC shoes comes with lasted shoe trees.

Purchasing Experience

G.J. Cleverley doesn’t have an online webstore, they sell some of their shoes via Mr Porter. I emailed [email protected] to express my interest and asked about sizing.

“Dear Enquiries Team

I am looking to purchase a pair of you AC Churchill online, I don’t have any stores close by to try on the shoes.

I am 6.5E in the Edward Green 82, 202, 888 and 606 Lasts,
6.5E in Gaziano & Girling in MH71, GG06.
6E in Crockett & Jones 337
6E in John Lobb 7000 and 8000

Do you recommend I take the 6.5 or 6?”

This was promptly answered by their Secretary Zoe Smith and referred me to their retail team. Mr. Adam Fry recommended going for size UK 6.5E, he also informed me that black and whiskey is available to purchase in my size straight away at £995 including VAT. Anthony Cleverley MTO is another option at £1445 taking 6 months.

I quite like the whiskey colour, as I love museum calf shoes, so it’s a no brainer purchasing the RTW pair. Shipping to Australia worked out to be £910 excluding VAT, the whole process was done via a couple of emails over 2 hours. The package got shipped out on a Friday, I received my shoes on the following Wednesday, took 3 working days.

Mr. Fry was professional and quick to respond, I had no problems in placing order via email. I also asked him directly on whether AC shoes are made in Edward Green, he can only confirm that their shoes are hand made in England.

Fit

As recommended by Mr. Fry, I took the same size as G&G and EG; the AC fits me very well. The smart square last is in between the TG73 and EG 888 in terms of squareness. I normally have no problems with the width of the standard fitting shoes, except for on some patterns on the TG73 last, the vamp sometimes dug into the top of right toe. On the AC last, no discomfort at all from the start and I am happy with the overall fit.

Features

- Aniline glazed full grain antiqued calf, feels like the same leather used by John Lobb, with a more obvious marbling appearance
- Clean broguing and closing
- Closely sculpted waists and neat welts
- Curved heel cups
- Canted narrow heels
- Two rows of brads on the toe of the soles
- Lasted shoe trees on hinges, no springs
- Limited edition, my pair is 13/50

I see one small problem on the left shoe, one faux lacing is not parallel to the others.

The aniline calf upper used by Cleverley, is glazed by hand in order to have a very transparent and glossy finish. This is why I love museum calf uppers; it’s not only nice to look at, it’s very easy to maintain. When shoe care is needed, just some leather conditioner like Bick 4 with small amount of cream and polish.

Overall, the shoes are made to a very high standard, they have all the features of a pair of bespoke shoes except for the soles are attached by machine.

 

[othertravel]

Thanks for the review! Cleverley has sales every so often. Do you know hen they typically are?

 

[wurger]

not too sure, I will ask.

 

[clee1982]

great review, I think I have seen US retailer put up to 50 off from time to time (hanger's project, mr porter does less though?). Churchill is the way to go, if I was going to get an AC, Churchill would definitely be my top choice.

So you think this is probably close to MH71 in terms of toebox? MH71 is as narrow as I can go (in terms of toebox, rest is good), TG73 is not wearable to me, and I keep hearing people saying AC's toebox is tight so I have never bothered.

 

[wurger]

MH71 is quite similar to EG888, the AC toe is slight more pointy square.

in terms of room for my toes, they feel similar.