George Cleverley Anthony Cleverley Models

[RogerP]

I don't believe AC are hand welted.

 

[Texasmade]

Is EG handwelted? They make AC shoes.

Normal EG is Goodyear welted. I’m not sure about their Top Drawer shoes though. Hand welting is normally found on bespoke shoes with s handful of exceptions (St Crispin do hand welting I believe for all of their shoes).

 

[papado]

I believe that neither AC nor EG TD shoes are hand-welted. There's always rumors they are handwelt, but I think in reality they're just goodyear welted ED TD shoes for a less crazy price RTW (I can only assume ED TD is something like $1800+ US once you factor in MTO+TD upcharge?).

The AC's look amazing though; so tempted to pick one up if i can find a place where I can try 'em on...

 

[clee1982]

All English rtw I can think of are gw, few hw in that price range (1.5k) except StC, some Italian (AM and a few) do have hw at that price point (AM has hw for probably as low as 1k?) then of course there is vass and once you go to 2k probably lots of Japanese hw option

 

[Alan Bee]

I like cleverleys over g&g & eg.

Obviously you’re opinion of the shoes will largely be determined by how well the last fits your feet & that’s a personal thing. But I found cleverleys were lighter (and more comfortable) than g&g / eg.

Not to say gaziano or green aren’t comfortable.

The heel on the cleverleys is also more shaped than gaziano or green (again, not saying the others aren’t shaped).

I believe Anthony cleverleys are handwelted vs machine welted.

Oh, and one other odd thing about cleverleys (I’m not sure why this is, perhaps something to do with the handwelted nature) I have 2 pairs of size 11 ACs: both when photographed next to each other look the same; both are the same size; both fit comfortably; but, the lasted shoe trees are not interchangeable AND simply won’t fit the other shoe. Strangest thing ever and I cannot explain it. In fact, both shoes are the bodie model. One is black one is museum calf brown.

@jonathanS Thanks for the detailed response.

Now, can I throw St. Crispins into the proverbial ring?

Can anyone comment on AC vs St. Crispins

Alan Bee

 

[jonathanS]

There is a bit of misinformation in this thread. If it helps clarify:

Cleverly has two ready to wear lines. The low end are made by third parties like C&J, by machine. Very few of them make it to the U.S. but the sell like mad in Japan.

The Anthony Cleverly are made in a variety of workrooms to a much higher standard. They are mostly hand made but not entirely. The soles are attached by machine (attaching them by hand would make ACs the most expensive RTW shoes on earth). The make in my opinion is as good as EG's best. Canted heels, beveled waists, toe brads, etc.

I stand corrected.

I suppose the one drawback to AC is that they don't have a lot of variation / customization options.

 

[Alan Bee]

AC gents,

On AC Churchill imitation lace ups.



Does anyone share my feeling that there’s way too much going on with this shoe in any color other than black. Which itself (black) is a tad uninteresting.

Hard as I try, I’m just having trouble coming around the shoe. I wonder if seeing it in person might change my opinion. But it just looks too much particularly in antique bourbon or the higher browns.

I much prefer the simplicity of the Nagakawa or Bulow bootie.

Alan Bee

 

[WilYa]

AC gents,

On AC Churchill imitation lace ups.

View attachment 1065239 View attachment 1065240

Does anyone share my feeling that there’s way too much going on with this shoe in any color other than black. Which itself (black) is a tad uninteresting.

Hard as I try, I’m just having trouble coming around the shoe. I wonder if seeing it in person might change my opinion. But it just looks too much particularly in antique bourbon or the higher browns.

I much prefer the simplicity of the Nagakawa or Bulow bootie.

Alan Bee

I quite agree. I will leave out the brogueing when going with a different colour.

 

[jonathanS]

AC gents,

On AC Churchill imitation lace ups.

View attachment 1065239 View attachment 1065240

Does anyone share my feeling that there’s way too much going on with this shoe in any color other than black. Which itself (black) is a tad uninteresting.

Hard as I try, I’m just having trouble coming around the shoe. I wonder if seeing it in person might change my opinion. But it just looks too much particularly in antique bourbon or the higher browns.

I much prefer the simplicity of the Nagakawa or Bulow bootie.

Alan Bee

I think a navy in Churchill would be great. My sense is the museum on that is too much.

I hesitate recommending this blog but Simon crompton had some interesting thoughts re st. C vs the English shoes.

I’ve considered getting st c but I prefer a chiseled last & have never been a fan of st c’s chiseled last. Ive put a pause on buying shoes for now, preferring to build out my wardrobe.

 

[Alan Bee]

I think a navy in Churchill would be great. My sense is the museum on that is too much.

I hesitate recommending this blog but Simon crompton had some interesting thoughts re st. C vs the English shoes.

I’ve considered getting st c but I prefer a chiseled last & have never been a fan of st c’s chiseled last. Ive put a pause on buying shoes for now, preferring to build out my wardrobe.

@jonathanS

"Ive put a pause on buying shoes for now, preferring to build out my wardrobe."

Interestingly, I did it the other way. Now trying to find the optimal shoe portfolio (not "collection") to complement it.

Anyone else on St. Crispin vs. AC??

Alan Bee

 

[jonathanS]

Interestingly, I did it the other way. Now trying to find the optimal shoe portfolio (not "collection") to complement it.

Well, you see, I was focused on losing weight! I reasoned feet dont change much (and if they change, its within the margin of error, such that I could pieces to perfect the fit). Plus, an ill-fitting shoe looks fine from the outside, whereas ill-fitting tailoring does not.

I hope to eventually go back to shoes and go bespoke.

 

[wurger]

Well, you see, I was focused on losing weight! I reasoned feet dont change much (and if they change, its within the margin of error, such that I could pieces to perfect the fit). Plus, an ill-fitting shoe looks fine from the outside, whereas ill-fitting tailoring does not.

I hope to eventually go back to shoes and go bespoke.

Ill fitting shoes will create pain and damage your feet over time, where clothes won’t.

 

[RogerP]

Normal EG is Goodyear welted. I’m not sure about their Top Drawer shoes though. Hand welting is normally found on bespoke shoes with s handful of exceptions (St Crispin do hand welting I believe for all of their shoes).

A bit more than a handful. Vass is hand welted. As are Bonafe and Zonkey Boot.

 

[Texasmade]

A bit more than a handful. Vass is hand welted. As are Bonafe and Zonkey Boot.

So 4 makers so far... Still just a handful!!!

 

[kevinsvindland]

Normal EG is Goodyear welted. I’m not sure about their Top Drawer shoes though. Hand welting is normally found on bespoke shoes with s handful of exceptions (St Crispin do hand welting I believe for all of their shoes).

Top Drawer is not handwelted either.
But the level of finish is even higher that ordinairy EG. Like the beveled waist, and the leather strip on top of the wooden shank, for even more comfort.
The finest leathers that come in from the tanneries are allocated to the TD production. And TD shoes spend a little more time in the finishing room.

Saint Crispin's are hand welted.