Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by T4phage, Nov 1, 2014.
He's probably on a ledge somewhere.
He posts at least once a month in the WAYWRN thread.
one of the greatest WAYWRN posts of all time, along with his posts in white tails and top hat at an ice cream parlor and a couple of years later at a taco stand.
This is all very interesting, but can we get back to the discussion of why English people have severely inbred pinchy faces, and why, no matter how drunk and randy their women get, they can't seem to breed this defect out of the line?
I don't mind a little of Kelly Brook drunk and randy, to be honest.
From David's interview with Luca:
LR: The first step for a young tailor is to do alterations. The last thing they will learn is how to make a jacket... So for the first couple of years, they only do alterations. When they're very good with alterations, they will start playing with jackets. They start out by making clothes for the family. This suit I'm wearing now was made by one of our young tailors, and he was very happy that I wore his jacket at Pitti. After they make for me, they make for my father, who is more difficult to fit. Then they start to make for our very old customers. Then finally for a new customer.
I feel the Luca's statement here sums up a lot of the arguments on this thread. For a large establishment like LH, their scalability and consistency comes from a combination of the Rubinaccis and their older master tailors guiding the broader team.
So one may assume that after 10 or 11 pieces, its the 3 to 5 year tailor apprentice who is making your jacket. Does that diminish the quality of the product?
For what it's worth I prefer working with Alessandra rather than Marianno or Luca.
Since all the great people with great insights have spoken up, may I ask :
What do people think of the tailors featured in O'Mast?
Particularly Panico, Sabino and the Ciardis
I really liked the film, and the tailors Gianluca decided to feature are all great. Panico makes some of the best suits I've seen anywhere, although it seems like he cuts a slightly more fashionable sihlouette for younger customers. At least on the one younger customer I met. The stuff he makes for his older customers are terrific though.
Ciro Palermo is mentioned in the film, but doesn't get talked about much here. He's retired now, but the things I saw from him were also really fantastic. @unbelragazzo recently commissioned something from his shop. I think one of his new cutters made it. AFAIK, Palermo himself has gone fishing.
@dieworkwear I am particularly young myself, (20) and so far traveling to Naples for suits has been out of the question.
However owing to a series of fortunate events that might possibly be something I am now able to take into consideration.
I was actually incredibly intrigued at Palermo's stuff, but could not find anything on it. I'm not sure if it's the overall jarring effect that LH has had on me, having seen it all over the world and quoted a lot by the iGents who know a whole lot about nothing, I found O'Mast to be incredibly refreshing and I myself wanted to find out more about these tailors. I would be grateful if you could point me somewhere where I could find out more about these tailors, Panico and Palermo, and their price points. Hopefully @unbelragazzo will be able to shed some light on the Napoli past Solito Rubinacci and Ambrosi. If anyone has had experience with the other tailors I would love to hear more about it too.
You're 20 years old and looking to get a bespoke Neapolitan tailor? Are you a law student trying to win Esquire's Best Dressed Real Man contest? Because if so, I have a post you should read.
What's the issue with age?
If someone can appreciate and aspire to bespoke clothing, age shouldn't be considered.
@dieworkwear I hope you'll excuse that as much as I enjoy the "EDM" music that I'm sure most of you gents would dismiss as absolute garbage, I also happen to have a penchant for Dean Martin, Tony Bennett and Dean Martin, amongst the other evergreens.
I have read The Republic, On Liberty, and The Conquest Of Happiness, amongst others. Surprisingly, I have applied to study law, though I am in fact considering sociology or philosophy, having come to the conclusion that litigation is at best, sophistry.
But I'm not here to drool over myself, I think I'd just like to show that I'm a rather old soul stuck in a young body I'd like to think, and I do enjoy the bespoke for the romanticism that I see Panico's workshop still has a fair bit of. Of course, I'm sure he puts out an amazing jacket, and having a dropped shoulder, I've been introduced to tailoring about 3 years ago. I find that the best my country has to offer in terms of tailors are solid, particularly the one I happily patronize now, but there are things they will just not do, or rather lack the manpower/skills to, ie a fully handmade jacket.
In fact, I love high pants, voluptuous lapels and a fuller, non Pitti cut for my pants and jackets (though surprise surprise, Pitti on Tumblr was what set off the interest in the first place)
But tailoring is a journey, and having gone from 14" cuff openings on hipster pants, to where I am now, I'd just like to explore the fables that Napoli has to offer.
So yes, if you could direct me to some of Panico and Palermo's work along with their price points, I'd be thankful
I'm just kidding.
You should check directly with tailors regarding prices.
I'll side with iammatt and mafoofan here. I think you should find someone you can work with for a long time. Few Neapolitan tailors travel, although Panico has a shop in Rome and Rubinacci has shops in Milan and London (and an international travel schedule). Most of the cutter-run shops are good, but most don't travel on any frequent or regular basis. You might want to pick someone you can see often.
The quality of cutters in the city differs, but the style -- relatively speaking -- doesn't differ as much as British tailors. Most tailors make their version of the Vincenzo Attolini/ Rubinacci cut set a long time ago. There are some people who differ, but they're a bit more niche. So, much of the quality of your output -- assuming you're working with a good cutter-run shop -- is dependent on how closely and frequently you can work with your tailor.
If you need a translator in the city, let me know. I can recommend a young lady who charges very reasonable prices. Most tailors in the city do not speak English.
BTW, I read On Liberty when I was 20. I remember being so excited by that book that I jumped up and down at some point. It was very good.
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