• Hi, I'm the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear and fashion.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

gennaro paone: former head tailor of rubinacci

itsstillmatt

The Liberator
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
14,381
Reaction score
2,079

Foo: ever considered that people's dislike here of Rubinacci may be directly linked to you singing their praise?


I that's true, that's really dumb.

I don't think that there is any doubt but that it is true. Or that it is really dumb.

FWIW, I don't think that foo is wrong or obnoxious in suggesting that there is a big difference between tasting at the tailor smorgasbord and developing a relationship with a tailor. One teaches you how tailors treat people they see as one or two offs, they aren't stupid people and it is easy to spot, and the other how they treat long term buyers. Of course it is different. Note that somebody like T4, who started this conversation, did not just try Gennaro once, and if he had, I doubt he would have as strong an opinion.
 

gdl203

Purveyor of the Secret Sauce
Affiliate Vendor
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jun 9, 2005
Messages
42,510
Reaction score
38,537
Surely, iammatt, you remember the (useful and interesting) contributions from Foo after his first trip to Naples, firmly in your footsteps, and his first commissions from LH and Matuozzo. He wrote posts about it, illustrated treatises, even started a blog shortly thereafter to share his views and opinions. Don't tell me that it took 10 or 11 commissions for him to have "a well-informed impression"... It is honestly one of the most puzzling and condescending comment coming from foo in recent history (there's been a few competing for that place).
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
20,173
Reaction score
47,928
Remarkably, it only takes one order of bespoke Maison Bonnet tortoiseshell frames in order to form an accurate impression of them. This number may change in the future, but for now, it stands at one.
 

TheFoo

THE FOO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
23,342
Reaction score
4,594

Surely, iammatt, you remember the (useful and interesting) contributions from Foo after his first trip to Naples, firmly in your footsteps, and his first commissions from LH and Matuozzo.   He wrote posts about it, illustrated treatises, even started a blog shortly thereafter to share his views and opinions.  Don't tell me that it took 10 or 11 commissions for him to have "a well-informed impression"...  It is honestly one of the most puzzling and condescending comment coming from foo in recent history (there's been a few competing for that place). 

Have I not, time and time again, openly reflected on my own naivete from those days? I've repeatedly owned up to the fact that I got overexcited by the romanticism of everything. Now I know things I didn't know then.

If anyone else were to express the same common sense I am trying to share here, I suspect you would not have a problem with it.
 

carpu65

Senior Member
Joined
May 22, 2012
Messages
263
Reaction score
322
That double breasted jacket is an abomination

There is no man on earth with that much of an hourglass figure. In fact you can see the fabric pulling under the chest, the awful silhouette is deliberate
I agree.
 

TheFoo

THE FOO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
23,342
Reaction score
4,594

Remarkably, it only takes one order of bespoke Maison Bonnet tortoiseshell frames in order to form an accurate impression of them. This number may change in the future, but for now, it stands at one.

Is this supposed to be clever? Or funny? Evidently, I'm not good at catching either from you.
 

Grammaton Cleric

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2007
Messages
1,818
Reaction score
347

One teaches you how tailors treat people they see as one or two offs, they aren't stupid people and it is easy to spot, and the other how they treat long term buyers. Of course it is different.

Can tailors simply meet clients once or twice and discern quickly who is but a sampler of their services, but Foo's fidelity and noble purpose is evident for all to see from the start?

This sad snobbishness centered on sticking but with one tailor that is perpetuated by some on this board is borderline absurd.
 

koolbear

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2014
Messages
71
Reaction score
120
I have tried one jacket from Rubinacci, and one jacket from Solito. From that 1 order, I have already derived an opinion of them both, which will direct future orders. The Rubinacci has better craftsmanship and fit. It is a harder jacket, with a straighter shoulder line. The hand-work is impressive. The Solito is a faaaaaaar softer jacket, with a rounder appearance, that I like. The fit and make is not as good, but is still good to very-good. But I think the fit will improve with subsequent orders. Based on my first orders, I have decided to use Rubinacci for work suits, and Solito for everything more casual. I don't think I need 10 orders to determine what either of them is likely to achieve with future orders. I think the first order will give you enough information to have a reasonable expectation of what will come in the future. I do expect that all of my future orders will have improvements in fit (and style).

I find the Rubinacci-ist attitude around here a bit disappointing, but I can see where it comes from. In this thread alone, we have Luca telling stories to mafoofan about Gennaro's declining health and old age, both of which seem to lack substance, and then he publicly discredits one of his former senior tailors, claiming he is no longer competent to make "quality" jackets. It all reeks of elitism and stupidity. I really like Gennaro and Mariano, they both seem like nice guys who are passionate about what they do. But I can definitely see where some of the negativity sparks from.
 

itsstillmatt

The Liberator
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
14,381
Reaction score
2,079

Can tailors simply meet clients once or twice and discern quickly who is but a sampler of their services, but Foo's fidelity and noble purpose is evident for all to see from the start?

This sad snobbishness centered on sticking but with one tailor that is perpetuated by some on this board is borderline absurd.

If you don't read foo as being extremely loyal, probably to the point of obsession, given his need for everything to be the same -- one shirt, one shoe, one cut, then you can't really read. It isn't a positive or negative attribute. It just is. Successful salesmen, and the tailors we are talking about are just that, make their paycheck by reading their customers. They are in business, right?

The snobbishness you are talking about doesn't exist. People are just pointing out that there are many different ways to have a relationship with a tailor, and each is probably apparent to men who have seen customers enter their doors for forty or more years. The ironic thing, I guess, is that the people expounding on "true Italian tailors with real Italian clients" are the ones who seem to consistently have non traditional relationships with their tailors. That seems like sad snobbery indeed.
 
Last edited:

Wes Bourne

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2008
Messages
3,865
Reaction score
152

One teaches you how tailors treat people they see as one or two offs, they aren't stupid people and it is easy to spot, and the other how they treat long term buyers.

Then how do you explain teh Ambrosi pents episode?
 
Last edited:

TheFoo

THE FOO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
23,342
Reaction score
4,594

I have tried one jacket from Rubinacci, and one jacket from Solito.  From that 1 order, I have already derived an opinion of them both, which will direct future orders.  The Rubinacci has better craftsmanship and fit.  It is a harder jacket, with a straighter shoulder line.  The hand-work is impressive.  The Solito is a faaaaaaar softer jacket, with a rounder appearance, that I like.  The fit and make is not as good, but is still good to very-good.  But I think the fit will improve with subsequent orders.  Based on my first orders, I have decided to use Rubinacci for work suits, and Solito for everything more casual.  I don't think I need 10 orders to determine what either of them is likely to achieve with future orders.  I think the first order will give you enough information to have a reasonable expectation of what will come in the future.  I do expect that all of my future orders will have improvements in fit (and style).


I find the Rubinacci-ist attitude around here a bit disappointing, but I can see where it comes from. In this thread alone, we have Luca telling stories to mafoofan about Gennaro's declining health and old age, both of which seem to lack substance, and then he publicly discredits one of his former senior tailors, claiming he is no longer competent to make "quality" jackets.  It all reeks of elitism and stupidity.  I really like Gennaro and Mariano, they both seem like nice guys who are passionate about what they do.  But I can definitely see where some of the negativity sparks from.

Just to clarify, I am not suggesting one cannot get a meaningful sense of a tailor's work after an order or two. In fact, you often don't need any orders. An ugly, ill-fitting suit on another client can be enough.

My point was simply that it takes personal experience over multiple, successive orders to get a good sense of how a tailor works with his clients (i.e. how collaborative versus prescriptive is he?). Simply asking him upfront won't do the trick.
 

itsstillmatt

The Liberator
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
14,381
Reaction score
2,079

Surely, iammatt, you remember the (useful and interesting) contributions from Foo after his first trip to Naples, firmly in your footsteps, and his first commissions from LH and Matuozzo.   He wrote posts about it, illustrated treatises, even started a blog shortly thereafter to share his views and opinions.  Don't tell me that it took 10 or 11 commissions for him to have "a well-informed impression"...  It is honestly one of the most puzzling and condescending comment coming from foo in recent history (there's been a few competing for that place). 

As Matt pointed out, the discussion wasn't about how good the tailors in question are, but about how they relate to their clients and how flexible they are.

Look, I don't give a shit about any of this. I dislike the Styleforum interview culture and the weird way people seem to amass "knowledge" through experiences rather than through experience, but these days I live 50 feet from the Pacific ocean pretty close to the middle of nowhere and put a suit on only to go into the city or if I have the itch to feel like a country squire. I don't really participate in this forum, but I do have opinions. I only saw this thread because of foo. I am kind of sorry I did.

I really like your sweaters. They are more along the lines of what somebody in my world needs.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Favorite knitwear under jackets/sport coats

  • Crewneck sweater

  • Turtleneck sweater

  • Long-sleeve polo

  • Vest

  • I don't like knitwear worn with jackets/sport coats


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
454,831
Messages
9,852,714
Members
205,504
Latest member
xiki123
Top