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General Bike Thread (Desiderata, Questions, Pics)

rdawson808

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Originally Posted by bigbjorn
Fair enough. What kind of pedal wrench do you have? I have a VAR and a Park, and they're both long enough to put about 160 lb-ft of torque on the flats, which is quite a bit. If you need more than that, you could use a cheater bar on the Park or another wrench looped over the end of the VAR. Problem is that if galvanic corrosion has really set in, you might well strip the crank threads. But at this point, I don't think you have much option but to unthread the damn things, come hell or high water. Good luck.

I figured with my pedal wrench, my size, and my strength, that I couldn't loosen it meant something was wrong. I ended up stripping the flats (never heard that word before--where the wrench grips?). I had already put some WD40 on them and considered hammering the wrench, but thought better of it, and just took it to the shop. He said he'd have to take the pedal apart but got the other one off with no effort.

I'm more worried about the gawd-awful sound the bike's making when I'm up out of the saddle. It started on just the hills, but did it even when I was just starting from a standing start (from a red light or whatever); just from putting some force on it. At first I just thought it was the chain, but as it's seem to have gotten worse I just don't know what it is. Definitely beyond my knowledge. I fear it won't make any noise for the guys at the shop and they'll think I'm crazy.

b
 

zippyh

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Is it a creaking/squeeking kind of sound? It really could be just about anything.
I'd try the usual suspects like greasing up your seat post, quick releases, and pedal threads.
Even if that doesn't solve the problem, from how much of a PITA it was to get the pedals off, it's probably due for that anyway.
 

rdawson808

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Originally Posted by zippyh
Is it a creaking/squeeking kind of sound? It really could be just about anything.
I'd try the usual suspects like greasing up your seat post, quick releases, and pedal threads.
Even if that doesn't solve the problem, from how much of a PITA it was to get the pedals off, it's probably due for that anyway.


It's much more of a "clank" kind of sound. I have been wondering if it isn't the pedals. But I have no idea what about the pedals it could be.
 

bigbjorn

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Originally Posted by rdawson808
But I have no idea what about the pedals it could be.
Worn outboard bearings would make that noise. My Speedplay Frogs have been making that noise for a few months. I should order the bearing kit, but I just use it as an indicator to work on my pedal stroke.
 

rdawson808

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Originally Posted by rdawson808
But I have no idea what about the pedals it could be.
Worn outboard bearings would make that noise. My Speedplay Frogs have been making that noise for a few months. I should order the bearing kit, but I just use it as an indicator to work on my pedal stroke.
Nope, not that. :) New pedals are on, still doing it. A friend suggested ripping out the little plastic doohicky they put between the wheel and the rear cassette. I'll try that tonight.
 

zippyh

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Nope, not that. :) New pedals are on, still doing it. A friend suggested ripping out the little plastic doohicky they put between the wheel and the rear cassette. I'll try that tonight.


AKA the dork disk.

As always, the question to ask yourself is What would Sheldon do?
 

rdawson808

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The search continues. It is not the dork disk.

I checked Sheldon (thanks for the link, I hadn't thought of him). Unfortunately, it is not a regular sound. That is, it does not occur once per revolution, etc.

I think it's the frame. Is this possible, do you think? It sounds like the frame is creaking when I'm putting "too much" force on it. I'm going to email Trek tonight and see if they have an answer. Then it's going back to the shop Saturday and I'm giving them a full-on demonstration.

Ugh.
 

zatarregaza

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Have you considered looking at the headset and perhaps lubing that? I had clunky-noise that I thought was coming from the bottom bracket that ended up being from the headset.
 

Althis

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decided to sell my current bike to fund a new one if anyone is interested thought I'd give a heads up

size 56 Ridley Pegasus (hydroformed deda aluminum frame, effective 57.5 top tube) with 2010 SRAM Force except for Shimano Tiagra brakes with an FSA SL-K carbon 15mm setback seatpost, 110mm -17 degree 3T stem, Reynolds Ouza Pro handlebars, Neuvation m28 wheels, Fizik Arione CX saddle, etc.
 
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rdawson808

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Have you considered looking at the headset and perhaps lubing that? I had clunky-noise that I thought was coming from the bottom bracket that ended up being from the headset.


Yes, this is one of the things on the list too. I just like to freak out and assume the worst. Could be the headset or stem and handlebars. Could be just the rear wheel not sitting properly in the dropouts (doubtful as I should have noticed that last night). Could be the rear hub. Or could be the frame about to snap. Blerg.
 

culverwood

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My Dave Yates tourer
CIMG0955-1.jpg
 

Luddite

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I'm buying a road bike but trapped by indecision. I have two options open to me, both for below retail: a mondrian Look 695 with di2 (and rubbish wheels) or a Colnago EPS with Super Record (and non-rubbish wheels).

Thoughts?
 

venessian

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I'm buying a road bike but trapped by indecision. I have two options open to me, both for below retail: a mondrian Look 695 with di2 (and rubbish wheels) or a Colnago EPS with Super Record (and non-rubbish wheels).

Thoughts?


My vote would be for the EPS, though the 695 is a fine frame (nice problem you have here):
I assume the geo of either frame works for you.
I like the EPS frame better than than 695 (I like the 595 better than the 695 in fact), and Colnago quality over Look (again, Look is good).
I prefer Campagnolo to Shimano, although I personally am not so entranced by either SR11 or Di2.
I don't know what color EPS you're considering, but I'm not real keen on the EPS Mondrian scheme. I thought it better on the white ground.
Most important, I don't know to which wheels you are referring, but why would you spend that much on a bicycle with "rubbish wheels"??? If you can, it would be better imo to get a better wheelset and downgrade the Di2.

There are extensive reviews/comments re: both frames on Weight Weenies (I'm not one myself, but the site is good); perhaps check those out. A recent ride report on the 695 indicated some issues, for a frame of that reputation and price.

How are you finding an EPS for below retail? I hope you're not considering non-warrantied frames.
 
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Luddite

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The EPS is discontinued and replaced by the (very similar) EPQ. The LBS has one frame left that they got cheap from the distributor - white with red and green swirls. The Look is a shop demo frame, so ridden, but not much.

Both ride very well and fit great.

I test rode a 595 then 695, and it might be psychological - but the difference was palpable. I have read ride reports (for both) on WW, and haven't seen much against the 695.

What are your criticisms of SR11 and Di2? I would not want to pay retail for either. Di2 was amazing to ride - almost too perfect shifting. I probably just prefer it to SR11. SRAM Red or 7900, I'd be paying retail for, and I prefer SR11 and Di2 in any case.

Wheels, I know a lot less about. Both options are Mavic - one entry level, one not. Neither are top shelf. I might be willing to accept a cheaper wheelset for my preferred frame/groupset, and I think I am leaning towards the Look - but then I would inevitably be upgrading wheels soon enough.
 

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