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Post ride Double IPA while I time the burgers on the grill.
View attachment 1595925
This should be a @smittycl tradition.
Not all V brakes are created equal. I mounted some salmon Eagle pads on my secondary bike and the thing would lock the wheels with minimal pressure and not let go, even when the rim was covered in rubber from miles of riding the previous tyre and pad and dirt from a bush trail. Absolutely incredible and made me regret that my main bike has discs... they are so light and easily replaced too unlike discs which need a bit more babying and careful extraction. Salmon is supposed to be the wet compound but it was just fine in the ultra dry Aussie summer.Brakes are tremendous. I can't believe how great disc brakes are especially in the wet.
Short answer:
If your cassette is a Shimano (iirc it is) cassette, generally a Shimano 6/7/8-sp chain will work fine. Plus, as you point out 6-sp chains are very rare now.
Longer answer:
As cassettes and chains evolved (more gears) the only place to change dimensions to accomodate those gears (also why dropout spacing changed from 126mm to 130mm) was to reduce the sprocket spacing (6-sp cassettes have 5.5mm spacing, 7-sp have 5.0mm spacing, etc., now down to 12-sp ~3.65mm spacing); the thickness of the sprocket teeth themselves; and the thicknesses of the chain plates plus lengths of the chain pins.
So, ideally, 6:6, 7:7, etc., but there is some slack both in 6/7/8 and in 9/10/11. However, it is usually not recommended to use a thinner (in your case the 7-sp) chain on a thicker (in your case the 6-sp) cassette, whereas the other way (i.e. 7-sp chain on 8-sp cassette is generally +/- OK).
*****
I would recommend trying a 6/7/8-sp Shimano chain. You should be OK.
But, the worn and I assume very old 6-sp cassette means your new chain will wear out much more quickly engaging it, and then start damaging your chainrings as well, so you really should buy a new cassette and a new compatible chain at this point. The drive-train will be smoother, more reliable, and cost less in the long run.
I put my old bike on facebook marketplace last night and happily would have dropped the price if it didn't sell. I received 20+ offers to buy it at full price. It sold this morning at 9AM.
Rookie mistake on my part is that I threw on my old MTB pedals (shimano XT SPDs) so the guy could test ride it and forgot to take them off before I gave him the bike. Just sent him a note to ship them back to me at my expense.
I've only bought/sold on facebook a couple of times. He wanted to write me a check. I balked because I don't know the guy and he responded with, "I'm a UMass English professor." I was about to accept the check when we settled on venmo. What's the etiquette here? Was I unreasonable?
Cash talks cheques walk.
I put my old bike on facebook marketplace last night and happily would have dropped the price if it didn't sell. I received 20+ offers to buy it at full price. It sold this morning at 9AM.
Rookie mistake on my part is that I threw on my old MTB pedals (shimano XT SPDs) so the guy could test ride it and forgot to take them off before I gave him the bike. Just sent him a note to ship them back to me at my expense.
I've only bought/sold on facebook a couple of times. He wanted to write me a check. I balked because I don't know the guy and he responded with, "I'm a UMass English professor." I was about to accept the check when we settled on venmo. What's the etiquette here? Was I unreasonable?
Haven't smart phones basically killed other small electronics? MapMyRide or Google Maps can track the route, speed, elevation changes, etc. I'm sure there must be a Bluetooth chest strap that transmits cardio data to an app? I don't' even like wearing my Garmin anymore as it's too hard to see even on max brightness. I ride now with iPhone handlebar mount and mechanical watch with large face.@otc Thanks for the input.
Curious about all of your thoughts on bike computers. I've used the same Polar wireless bike computer/HRM for well over 10 years. I don't use the HRM much (actually have no idea where the chest strap is) but the damn thing still works. Gives me time/riding time, avg speed, distance, max speed, etc. All the things I'd ever need. I thought about upgrading to something like the Garmin models but wonder if it makes more sense to just use my phone and Strava.
I'm a couple rides deep into the free trial for Strava and think I'll pay for it. I don't want to mount my phone on the bars so I'll likely keep the old cyclometer until it dies and just keep my phone in my jersey pocket.
@otc Thanks for the input.
Curious about all of your thoughts on bike computers. I've used the same Polar wireless bike computer/HRM for well over 10 years. I don't use the HRM much (actually have no idea where the chest strap is) but the damn thing still works. Gives me time/riding time, avg speed, distance, max speed, etc. All the things I'd ever need. I thought about upgrading to something like the Garmin models but wonder if it makes more sense to just use my phone and Strava.
I'm a couple rides deep into the free trial for Strava and think I'll pay for it. I don't want to mount my phone on the bars so I'll likely keep the old cyclometer until it dies and just keep my phone in my jersey pocket.
Update on the bike I sold: the guy ghosted me about my pedals. We went back and forth the day before about the bike not having pedals, he was going to bring some, then he couldn't and asked if I could throw pedals on just for the test ride. We messaged 5-6 times about pedals. I reached out to ask if he'd ship them back to me on my dime and I get radio silence. Grand scheme of things, they were 20 year old SPDs that I can buy used on ebay for $20 but still. I'd at least respond.