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General Bike Thread (Desiderata, Questions, Pics)

Alexidb

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What’s the frame? How much is it off by? What is noticeable that’s making you think the frame is out of alignment?

Ugh, I think my frame is out of alignment. Probably should have checked before planning and starting a build, but nothing really seemed amiss. At first I just thought my wheel was dished wrong, but I did a string test and it looks like it is off.

Now I have to decide if I want to bust out a 2x4 or take it to a professional...

Small chance it was just always like this and can be handled by dishing the wheel a little more.
 

otc

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What’s the frame? How much is it off by? What is noticeable that’s making you think the frame is out of alignment?
Custom frame that was stolen and recovered (sans parts). So it is entirely possible the thief or subsequent "owner" did something stupid like tried to fit a track hub in there or just stored it somewhere it could get squished a bit.

I put the rear wheel in and it just looked off which made me start measuring (also, it didn't slide nicely into the dropouts...spacing felt a little tight).

There's a chance they are asymmetrical chainstays (to reduce dish), so I'll have to take some more measurements (that would throw off the string test), but I was holding a board to the rim and it was looking like it wasn't centered on the seat tube/BB shell.

Then it could be paranoia, but looking closely I started feeling like the dropouts weren't parallel to each other...
 

Alexidb

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Check the points where the chain stays and frame stays meet the dropouts and the frame/bb shell. If there is no obvious distortion there take it to a bike shop and have them put drop a drop-out alignment gauge on it.

Custom frame that was stolen and recovered (sans parts). So it is entirely possible the thief or subsequent "owner" did something stupid like tried to fit a track hub in there or just stored it somewhere it could get squished a bit.

I put the rear wheel in and it just looked off which made me start measuring (also, it didn't slide nicely into the dropouts...spacing felt a little tight).

There's a chance they are asymmetrical chainstays (to reduce dish), so I'll have to take some more measurements (that would throw off the string test), but I was holding a board to the rim and it was looking like it wasn't centered on the seat tube/BB shell.

Then it could be paranoia, but looking closely I started feeling like the dropouts weren't parallel to each other...
 
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venessian

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I put the rear wheel in and it just looked off which made me start measuring (also, it didn't slide nicely into the dropouts...spacing felt a little tight).

There's a chance they are asymmetrical chainstays (to reduce dish), so I'll have to take some more measurements (that would throw off the string test), but I was holding a board to the rim and it was looking like it wasn't centered on the seat tube/BB shell.
You will have to do more checks to see what the issue is, if any, but asymmetric chainstays are not related to dish. Dish is a wheel issue, relating the hub/rim centerline to the axle/frame centerline.

Asymmetric rims are designed for dish, of course, as are offset hubs (flanges). Asymmetric chainstays otoh have to do more with chainline, perceived frame stiffness, and generally (much more, really) aesthetics and marketing.

Slightly off-kilter dropouts are the more likely cause of your issue, from what you describe.
 

Joffrey

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So, the mounts for my bicycle's front and rear lights broke. The lights themselves work so just the mounts are broken. Anything I can do to fix them or should I just buy new ones? I hate to waste the lights but I have a feeling buying supplies to fix/replace the mounts may cost as much.FYI, the lights were not expensive ($8 for both the front and rear).
 

otc

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So, the mounts for my bicycle's front and rear lights broke. The lights themselves work so just the mounts are broken. Anything I can do to fix them or should I just buy new ones? I hate to waste the lights but I have a feeling buying supplies to fix/replace the mounts may cost as much.FYI, the lights were not expensive ($8 for both the front and rear).
Picture of the offending light/mount?

Depending on how it attaches, the answer ranges from "easy fix" to "sad reality of cheapo disposable lights".
 

Alexidb

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Buy better lights and you get better mounts. Go to your LBS and buy some rechargeable Blackburns for 20-40 bucks and you’ll have a stronger mount and a lifetime warranty.

Picture of the offending light/mount?

Depending on how it attaches, the answer ranges from "easy fix" to "sad reality of cheapo disposable lights".
 

Joffrey

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Thanks. I think I will invest in better quality lights. Any opinion on Cygolite compared to Blackburns? The wirecutter gave the cygolites pretty good reviews.
 

venessian

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Thanks. I think I will invest in better quality lights. Any opinion on Cygolite compared to Blackburns? The wirecutter gave the cygolites pretty good reviews.
Blackburn make good products, but I have never owned any of their lights.

My brother, a full-time commuter, has Cygolites, front and rear. Expilion something or other. He bought them because I think they are one of the few/only manufacturer that still sells replacement Li-Ion batteries (ie not throwaways). He loves his Cygolites, and I have been impressed seeing/handling them.

I have Light & Motion, also excellent imo and worth a look.
 

Joffrey

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Do you want to illuminate the road or just be seen? Do you live in an urban environment?
Primarily to be seen although illuminate the road where possible. I usually ride from spring to fall on my way to/from work so it doesn't get too dark here thus not terribly worried about seeing the road. Plus I ride in an urban environment so street lights are reasonable. I may start winter cycling (commuter) in the next year or so, so I guess I could consider stronger lights then.
 

Alexidb

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It’s counter intuitive but to overcome the ambient light of an urban environment you need a brighter light. But in general you can get away with just blinkiez ‘cause you can see the road. The Cat Eye Volt 700 is a reliable light, I really like the fact that you can have a steady beam with a pulse.

Primarily to be seen although illuminate the road where possible. I usually ride from spring to fall on my way to/from work so it doesn't get too dark here thus not terribly worried about seeing the road. Plus I ride in an urban environment so street lights are reasonable. I may start winter cycling (commuter) in the next year or so, so I guess I could consider stronger lights then.
 

emptym

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I've used one of these rechargeable lights w/ motion sensor for about a year and it's been great. Love the subtlety of the underseat mount. For a headlamp, I ziptie a Maratac AAA flashlight into a vent on my helmet. Would probably hurt in a crash, but has a good beam and will probably last decades.
 

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