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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. TtownMD

    TtownMD Distinguished Member

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    I have about 8 or 9 Vass shoes had more sold them took a loss. Know I just use them for every day type of shoe that I don’t care about etc. Great shoes handwelted if you care for that. I personally don’t, for me number one is fit, then looks, then customer service, then handwelted or Goodyear welted. Own saints, Vass, enzobonafe, bestetti, out of all four Vass is crazy stiff & has crazy high instep. So if you have low instep & narrow heel stay away. Mind you not just my opinion if Vass fits you it’s a great shoes no doubt about it. But it’s definately not for me.
     

  2. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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    Doc, very strangely the Vass F Last derby takes my low instep foot quite well. I wouldn't attempt the Oxfords however for the same reason (high instep)

    Alan
     

  3. TtownMD

    TtownMD Distinguished Member

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    Mine also for F last but I am spoiled now man. I want tight narrow heel like gg or bestetti. Vass prices are not cheap & have sky rocketed. Example ascot shoes sell Vass for 800$ to 6000$. Depending upon the leather you are buying. At that price point I might pony up little more & get some thing I am totally happy with. Hell you can even buy EG on sale for that price range. Patience is virtue man. Lot of gents on this form picked up some nice gg & EG goodies on sale for sub 600 to 800$ range. Some example would be EG Utah brown galaway, kentmeere, some Dover & Rosewood galaway. To me gg & EG trumps Vass any day of the week specially at low prices. But once again I have crazy large rotation & not in need of shoes :-D
     

  4. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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    Any input on construction? Across all 4 ....

    Alan
     

  5. TtownMD

    TtownMD Distinguished Member

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    Construction wise Vass is hand welted & rest are good year welted. On a paper hand welted construction is superior. But in reality any good year welted shoe will last you same as hand welted shoe. Example gg can be recrafted up to ten times. Source tony Gaziano, Neus gg store manager & you can say hand welted can go more. And you are right but let’s be real hear, after 6 to 10 resole of the shoes. Regardless of construction Goodyear welted or hand-welted. Upper leather will give out regardless of construction or the brand. And it will be time for them to retire.
     

  6. benjamin831

    benjamin831 Distinguished Member

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    I like the constructive discussion about instep because I too have a low instep and narrow feet. Here are a few points I wish to add in response to your post:
    • I bought a pair of Vass cordovan derbies 3 months ago and it was around $600. Which is much cheaper than you quote. It was through Vass directly.
    • Bestetti has crazy high instep, much higher than Vass in my experience. I had to return my pair of almond toe Mavericks to Marco because the instep was cavernous. You could hear an echo.
    • Vass F last has a higher instep than most English shoes and some Carmina shoes, but I'm hoping the U last will fit me better since it has a lower instep than the F last.
    • I haven't given up on Vass yet but I've taken losses with shoes that don't fit.
    • One weird thing about Vass is that their outsole measurements are much larger than shoes of comparable size. They're the largest shoes I have.
     

  7. TtownMD

    TtownMD Distinguished Member

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    All Italian maker including Vass have crazy high instep. I did personal made to measure semi bespoke for bestetti. Other wise it’s a no go. As far as buying direct from Vass enjoy while it last. Ascot sells all the Vass & has monopoly good guy to work & deal with. So buying direct will be no go, trust me been there done that. f, u, & k all have high instep. I have wasted money on them & own all of them. Hope it works out for you.
     

  8. nishant

    nishant Senior Member

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    Lol that’s me in a nutshell. Enough money vaporized in finding the right fit with Vass or Enzo. EG is the new game in town
     

  9. saurabh

    saurabh Distinguished Member

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    Just giving my personal opinion here after owning all these brands and having several dozens of shoes.

    The upper quality of EG and G&G is much better than Vass/Enzo Bonafe/Carmina in my opinion for calf shoes. I find the fit of G&G the best and then EG and then Carmina. I do not buy more Calf shoes of EB/Vass for this reason especially also because instep is higher for both and U last is also higher instep than C&J, EG, G&G lasts.
    In Cordovan Carmina provides the best value, excellent colors and they do an amazing job on Cordovan shoes/boots.
    In Carmina, Modified Simpson last works best and Uetam last works best for loafers.
    In C&J all lasts are very medium instep and work well. And the hand grade range calf leather is excellent.
    Most EB lasts instep is too high and their museum calf wrinkles like crazy and very thin.

    High-Instep is as follows for the RTW shoe range:
    Enzo Bonafe = Bestetti > Vass > Carmina > Edward Green = C&J > G&G
    (For me G&G, C&J, EG and Carmina work well).

    Overall quality of Calf Uppers
    G&G = Edward Green = Bestetti > C&J > Vass = Carmina > Enzo Bonafe

    Fit wise G&G comes closest to a semi-bespoke fit and actually it fits better than Bestetti (MTM alligator shoe) for me.

    Fit wise for me it ranks as follows:
    G&G > EG = C&J > Carmina > Vass > Enzo Bonafe
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2019

  10. Flake

    Flake Distinguished Member

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    I have a high instep and find the Vass U last fits me very well. Have to size up to F width in G&G. Personally, I love the Very tight waist of the F last as well (something I like about G&G lasts as well)
     

  11. RogerP

    RogerP Distinguished Member

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    As posted in response to this topic in another thread...

    Seeking the advantage presented by Vass as compared with the likes of Edward Green, Anthony Cleverley and Gaziano & Girling somewhat misses the point. Vass isn't a peer of AC / EG / G&G. If you're looking for hand-welted peers of that Goodyear welted trio, look to Antonio Meccariello; St. Crispin's, and arguably, Paolo Scaforra.

    Vass is significantly less costly than the representatives of your original comparison group - which IS the advantage it holds over the others (along with far greater ease of MTO and customization without knowing a guy who knows a guy or being willing to pay through the nose). I'm not sure it's reasonable to expect a significantly less costly product to hold advantages in quality / construction / materials.

    And the reason that @TtownMD categorically dismisses Vass is the same reason that I categorically dismiss the likes of Antonio Mecariello, and to a lesser extent, Gaziano & Girling: fit. While I fit EG shoes and boots in a standard E width just fine, G&G requires a bump up to F width for my wide-ish feet and high instep. The problem is that most G&G vendors don't stock much if any F width offerings, meaning that purchase opportunities are comparatively few. As for AM - I don't know whose feet those stunningly beautiful shoes were designed for, but definitely not mine. Vass, in comparison, offers 4 different lasts that fit me very well - meaning that they are capable of supplying me with shoes or boots for almost any occasion that will actually fit comfortably and last for probably as long as my feet. The cost is moderate and the turnaround for single custom orders is very reasonable.
     

  12. supern0va

    supern0va Senior Member

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    Some non-brown G&G and EG I finally find time to polish!

     

  13. grc1

    grc1 Distinguished Member

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    This +1000. A discussion on quality and construction is both fun and enlightening, but in terms of usefulness it has its limits. At the end of the day, it's about finding a maker who makes shoes that fit you, both physically and aesthetically.
     

  14. laufer

    laufer Distinguished Member

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    Agreed and indeed. My best fitting last is GG06, and it feels like it was made for my feet. I cannot wear tg73 or KN14; I struggle with DG70. MH71 is OK but not the best.
     

  15. supern0va

    supern0va Senior Member

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    St Thomas in mole suede worn this Tuesday...

     

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