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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, e

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. grc1

    grc1 Senior member

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    Now THAT's a shoe I'd love to see in the wild :inlove: - do it! What options are you thinking of taking - the only one I've seen is the pearl grey/black spectator, which to me is about as iconic as a St.James in vintage cherry.



    Made to order Paris has - or at least had - the Burnham TG73 in vintage rioja as part of their collection. Perhaps worth asking them if they have it in stock in your size or could re-order without the MTO surcharge?

    +1000 - that's one combo I would jump on! Does G&G still do whiskey shell or has that ship long sailed? Haven't seen any MTOs lately ...
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2016
  2. dddrees

    dddrees Senior member

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    That's what I would have expected or at least somethin that would have actually fixed it. Anyway good luck, in the end I hope you get the satisfaction your looking for.
     
  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    There is a simple (but good, even brilliant) fix for this...if all else fails...although you may want to have a professional do it for you. Depends on how "handy" you are.

    Simply lace the boot up with the tongue properly aligned. Select the highest crossing of the laces before the hooks are engaged. Take a grease pencil or a crayon and mark a point dead center on the tongue above and below the crossing of the laces. Not too widespread not too tight.

    Now take the shoes off, and drive an awl through those points and with heavy brown waxed thread / cording, sew a loop that "captures" that crossing and holds the lace in place on the tongue. The loop should be snug...not much play but not so tight the laces cannot be easily slipped under the loop.

    How you tie off that loop on the underside of the tongue is up to you. Obviously a knot will tend to be uncomfortable but a double loop and sandwiching the ends in-between the tongue lining, can work brilliantly.

    When you wear the shoes, the loop will be inconspicuous and with the laces crossing under the loop, the tongue will be unable to shift.

    If the top of the tongue continues to shift left you may need a spot stitch through the tongue and upper higher up on the boot, just beyond the placement of the eyelets....on the side that is opening up. Same thread.

    As I said...only if all other remedies fail to materialize.

    PS and on edit...the "traditional" way to lace derbies is a simple "x" lacing. You may not be able to make the above solution work with a "ladder" / oxford lace.
    --
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2016
    3 people like this.
  4. SoGent

    SoGent Senior member

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    what color are those ? you rock man
     
  5. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Cheers. These are the only MH71 I own or have owned, so I can't offer to comparison to the fit of this last in other styles. There's nothing loose about these at all, though. Very snug fit throughout, including the shaft.
     
  6. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here is a picture of a Berluti shoe, showing the thread loop to prevent the tongue from going walkabouts.


    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. grc1

    grc1 Senior member

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    :cheers:

    Mole suede, deco last. In hindsight, a non-deco last like TG73 might have been a better match for a chelsea boot in suede :eh: - dare I say the deco is a bit TOO sharp, feels ever-so-slightly out of sync with the texture and style IRL. Better match with high-shine calf, methinks.

    Oh well - First-World problems ...
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2016
  8. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Precisely! Although a little hard to see. Good on you for posting that.

    Early on, when I first started making ankle boots, I used a loop of leather...sewn directly onto the tongue and frankly, a little clumsy. But one of my customers showed me a pair of Bontonis (sp?) with the thread loop. I thought it was brilliant.

    FWIW...
     
  9. laufer

    laufer Senior member

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    I believe that ship has sailed. According to the latest update I have G&G has stopped taking orders for shell due to the shortage of high quality shell cordovan. It is worth nothing that Burnham in calf is made as wholecut boot while Burnham in shell is usually made from two pieces of shell. I am underlying usually because I have seen a picture of wholecut Burnham made in from shell. I am assuming that must have been smaller size boot

    Here is the picture of Burnham in Whiskey Shell made from two pieces

    [​IMG]


    Here is the wholecut Burnham in Dark Brown Shell

    [​IMG]




    Usually Chelsea boot will fit a little tighter, this is necessary since there are no laces too keep the shoe together.

    @sacafotos I have shoes, chelsea boot and chukka boot on MH71, all in the same sizes. It should be safe for you to take the same size.
     
  10. TtownMD

    TtownMD Senior member

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    grc1 you read my mind same iconic make up black & grey.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. TtownMD

    TtownMD Senior member

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    I would be down for tg73 last
     
  12. grc1

    grc1 Senior member

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    :butbut: :brick: :cry:


    Nice one! :cheers: Looking forward to seeing pictures!
     
  13. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

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    Thanks DWFII and bengal. That looks like a good fix for a shifty tongue. Not 100% sure it wouldn't create a creasing as the tongue would be held out of its natural, misaligned position.

    The options as I see them are quite obvious, live with it (maybe with loop catch), return them and if wanted MTO a new pair at extra cost (or at normal price as some sort of goodwill), or wait for the next pre-order round (where the make-up might well be different or the price increased) ...
    Either way, will have to make that decision soon.
     
  14. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I doubt that would happen. Believe it or not, the leather will usually just re-conform to the new position.

    Beyond that, there is a chance...all other things being equal (new boots being made with the same techniques and similar leathers)...that this will be a recurring problem for you simply because misalignment of the tongue can be affected by the way a person walks and by the shape of their foot. It's not the only factor but a contributing one. That misalignment is not "natural" IOW. Dollars to donuts the tongue was properly aligned when the boot was lasted.

    The thread loop solution is brilliant as much because an amateur can do it as because it is regularly done, as a matter of course, in some RTW and bespoke shops.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2016
  15. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

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    That's understood. What maybe wasn't clear enough is that I haven't worn them yet for more than minutes at a time, indoors, trying them on. They came like that from brand new. My feet don't have anything to do with that yet. ;)
    Feeling inside, the tongue base is attached lower on the "hanging" side than on the other boot. Plus the vamp leather is thinner and slightly bulging at that spot. Hmm...
     
  16. NewStart

    NewStart Senior member

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    The worst thing you can do to yourself is to get annoyed everytime you put them on. At the price you paid for them, i think it is very likely to happen.

    Not really a big deal, but as someone said before, when you have seen it, it is the only thing you will notice.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2016
  17. TtownMD

    TtownMD Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Got my G&G Gatsby Deco Last :slayer:
     
    8 people like this.
  18. Tony Yang

    Tony Yang Well-Known Member

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    anyone order a MTO in December and have received a order confirmation and payment link? I still haven't gotten mine from Nick :(


    also has anyone gotten a purple lining inside the shoe?
     
  19. Farhad19620

    Farhad19620 Senior member

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    Is there no risk that the tongue may tear ? I would try this on some boots if there s no risk of tearing the tongue.
     
  20. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Done correctly...even a little crudely...and in ordinary use, none.
     

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