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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, e

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    dont say "just" mr dot. "just" and G&G dont jive my brotha. im sure they are more disgusting than you can imagine. i look forward to pics. :)
     


  2. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here is a side-view: Whole-cut Chelsea boot.

    [​IMG]

    taken from: http://gazianogirling.com/
     


  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Bengal,

    Thanks! I'm going to have to figure out how to cut that pattern and the shape/size of the crimping board. I think it is one of the most elegant of shoes.

    Not many people know this but "Congress" boots (very similar), made with elastic, go back to the mid 19th century.
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2011


  4. meister

    meister Senior member

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    That Chelsea boot looks like a sleeker more British 60s version of the classic RMW.
     


  5. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've never heard the term “Congress" boots (maybe an Americanism).

    J.Sparkes Hall of Regent Street London is credited with the invention of the side-elastic boot. sometime in the 1840s.(the advert is from 1852). It must have needed the invention of fabric woven from rubber-threads, which must have been a novelty back then.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    In Victorian times, this style of boot was known as the “Elasticated Jemiah” (not sure about the spelling).
    The low (shoe version) is traditionally known in England as a “Cambridge" shoe.

    To quote Sir Michael Caine's immortal words: "Not many people know this".
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2011


  6. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I suppose. I've got an old catalogue or two somewhere in the shop...I'll see if I can run it down.
     


  7. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Bengal,

    Here you go...

    Early 20th century (19 "aughts")--Higgins Leather Company, St. Louis, Missouri:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Russia Calf was selling in three colours for $0.30 a sq. ft. and "Extra Quality Porpoise" leather shoe laces for $0.50 a dozen.
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2011


  8. Nick A

    Nick A Affiliate Vendor

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  9. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Once you've worked that out, you can charge a premium:

    So, please no more than today's price of a dozen (pairs?) "Extra Quality Porpoise" leather shoe laces! :D
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2011


  10. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    very true
     


  11. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Damn that is one beautiful boot! Does anyone else besides G&G offer wholecut boots? I can't call to mind any.

    DWFII, what's your take on the level of expertise and time these wholecut boots would require to make?
     


  12. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    smokin crack?
     


  13. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    R M Williams and J M Weston produce all their side-elastic boots as whole-cuts:
    .
    [​IMG]

    http://www.rmwilliams.com.au/springsummer2012/index.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.jmweston.com/home.html?#en/1-1/-1

    The J M Weston boots are even blocked/crimped by hand. I've seen a video from the factory
    and I was quite surprised, seeing a worker pulling the damp leather over a blocking/crimping board.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2011


  14. Naka

    Naka Senior member

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    R.M Williams are famous for their wholecut Chelsea boot, and Baxter Boots offer wholecuts aswell. I'm not sure about makers in America and ENgland, but those are two well known Australian brands.
     


  15. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    i always thought of him as a funny guy, quasi.
     


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