Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, e

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    Fantastic!

    As an awesome personal sidenote, one of your pics showcases my current concept MTO pair, you can all thank me later.

    They look great, thank you for that pic... :)
     
  2. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice article, indeed!



    I had to laugh out loud about this sentence in English translation:

    It might be different in Swedish, but in English "the smallest room" means only one room: the toilet!
    My commiserations to poor Daniel, who has to work in the loo. :D
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2013
  3. jhcam8

    jhcam8 Senior member

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    Last edited: Oct 21, 2013
  4. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Thanks jhcam8.

    jingevaldsson - most excellent blog. That new "Galway" looks terrific.

    I had the chance to meet Dean Girling at the recent Leatherfoot trunk show - very knowledgeable guy who is very passionate about the craft.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2013
  5. Odd I/O

    Odd I/O Senior member

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    Interesting to see that they have now developed their own version of Edward Green's Galway boot. With Edward Green currently refusing to make the Galway on anything other than the 82 and 64 last this would be a good alternative for those who wanted it on the 888.

    Edit: D'oh! RogerP beat me to it.
     
  6. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    great blog post. worth translating, and i usually hate doing that.
     
  7. Leaves

    Leaves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Top notch!
     
  8. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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    Very interesting reading. I found the part about new line's construction method particularly interesting. The method is described as somewhere between traditional hand sewn and GY and the same as StC, Meermin, Enzo Bonafe. I read about Carmina uses the method without gemming but use the machine to sew, so I presume this is the way they are talking about.
     
  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    JM Weston also employs a GY method without gemming (at least for their Golf model)
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2013
  10. laufer

    laufer Senior member

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    Thank you for this. Within this article lies the reason why you pay premium for G%G shoes. They did no pass a faulty hatch grain onto consumers like some other retailers did. When I bought AS Radwell chukka from Pediwear what I received was discussing; small patches of faded color. It was mind boggling that passed bought factory and retailer control. I did not receive even an apology let alone a compensation for having to return those shoes back to England.
    Kudos to G&G for their commitment to quality.
    If Bespoke England remains the only authorized dealer for G&G Nick deserve is every bit. He really did wonders to promote and present G&G shoes.
     
  11. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Well you make a good point about this move having the potential to create market availability for those seeking the Galway look in more diverse last options. I know I am definitely interested.
     
  12. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Well, hopefully the new construction method will be price competitive to at least Saint Crispins.

    But with machine sewn outsole, they cannot do a closed waist similar to bespoke and pegged waist construction...
     
  13. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    Thank you everyone for all your kind words!



    Yes, as I have understood it BE will be the only retailer in the UK, except themselves in their London shop and on their online shop.



    Ah, so you are the one who did the Galway version? Looks great, will probably be many people happy for being able to order a G&G version of that boot.



    Haha, no, doesn't mean the same thing in Swedish.




    No, this is two different things. The JM Weston version of Goodyear welting (and maybe Carmina also then, haven't heard about this, they do use traditional gemming as a standard afaik) is with a lip cut out from a leather sole, instead of glueing on a canvas strip like with gemming, but they do use a Goodyear machine to sew the welt stitch. The reason many don't use this method is because of problems to get the leather lip to handle the heavy machine stitches, a canvas rib is harder and easier to sew in.

    But the hand welting that G&G will use, and that SC, bonafe and Meermin use, is real hand sewn welt stitching. But instead of carving the lip/holdfast/feather out from a thicker leather insole, you order special insoles where the lip has already been carved out. That lip is a bit higher and not as sturdy as the hand cut out lip used in traditional hand welting, but a good alternative which makes the process faster and therefore cheaper.



    Their aim is to keep pricing not far from the Deco line, they don't want the prices to run away too much. If this means that they'll skip the spade soles or something, I don't know, and probably they don't either yet. Like I wrote, the plans are still at an early stage.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2013
  14. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    :nodding:

    Pretty excited, did they mention what they will be calling it, if they are indeed adding it to their line?
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2013
  15. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    No, and not completely sure that they'll add it to the RTW-line, but it will be easy to order MTO at least since they've done the pattern now.
     

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