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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, e

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. The Shoe Snob

    The Shoe Snob Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    We don't see eye to eye on a certain other thread but I always appreciate the good information that you provide to SF memebers in threads outside of that one. This comment in particular is helpful to those that don't realize these things, as understanding the last and it's variations can be a tricky concept for some to grasp... have to memorize that 1/20th of an inch in length per width....that I did not know as a factual measurement but of course understood the concept that as you add to the outside, the line must follow all of the way around the last (if only slightly)...
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    It's not necessary that we agree on everything. You have your POV, I have mine. I doubt that they will ever mesh perfectly, but at least you've earned and paid for your perspective.

    Beyond that...one small correction: it's not "1/20th of an inch" it's 1/24th of an inch. Sorry if I didn't make that clear.

    I have been dealing directly with lastmakers and modelmakers for most of my career. I got that information from Bill Tippit who was a protege' of Wilson Schraeder (before Wilson passed), and who started and owned The Last Word and Global Footwear Solutions, before moving on to Nike.

    --
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2014
  3. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Quote:Absolutely. And a very practical choice if you want all-weather wearability.
     
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  4. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    It's already F width. DG70 could be disastrous if he needs toe room on top of the extra girth and ball width.

    No shoe last design is more hideous than a wide girth combined with a sleek pointed toe.
     
  5. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Since 3pc shoe trees are mentioned. Are the Arran suede? And pre-2010 G&G made by Alfred Sargent?

    Also, since 3pc shoe tree is lasted, it would of course feel tight to squeeze the wider soft square last into a narrower pointed round toe shoes even at the same length.
     
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  6. labravajazz

    labravajazz Senior member

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    By the way I was meaning to put these city rubber soles on in case anyone was interested
    Sorry if I'm duplicating anything as I haven't followed this thread till now.... Anyway
    They are one step sleeker than single Dainite I guess.
    Possibly the nicest rubber soles as far as looking right on shoes in place of a leather sole.
    Just wore these in a bit of rain in London today - very comfortable.
    Similar to EG Thames soles but I think GG make them look shapely if that's the right word


    [​IMG]
     
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  7. Frank the sheep

    Frank the sheep Senior member

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    Thank you for your answear. It´s because of this i´m surprised that the shoe fit so much bigger than the other G&G I have, I have two shoes and two boots in four different lasts and all but this one feels the same. Maybe it´s just because it´s a chukka and have stretched more.
     
  8. Frank the sheep

    Frank the sheep Senior member

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    English is not my native language so maybe I was a bit unclear. I have one lasted 3pc shoe tree for the MH71 and one for the DG70....I didn´t try to fit the MH71 tree into the DG70 and was surprised that it didn´t work :D

    It´s not a suede Arran pre 2010. It´s made 2013 and with grain leather.
     
  9. The Shoe Snob

    The Shoe Snob Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    you said the 1/24th right, for some reason 20th got into my head...so it was my error, not yours...
     
  10. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Maybe it doesn't make that much of a difference...or only to people who are shoemakers...but 2x1/24=1/48=1 iron.
     
  11. Leaves

    Leaves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Metric system FTW.
     
  12. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not sure what you mean here but "irons" aren't metric--they are a much older system of measurement peculiar to shoemakers.
     
  13. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

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    The wen sum sole is fantastic. Looks great and outlasts leather and is rain proof. Great choice
     
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  14. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    "Irons" (1/48 inch or approx 1/2 mm) is a virtually defunct measurement, that was used to measure the thickness of leather. English shoemakers traditionally refer to the thickness of sole leather in inches (1/4" is the standard thickness of a man's leather sole). As far as I am aware, tools for setting the edges of sole and welt are also marked in inches. These days, English leather merchants have taken to offer their ware in millimetre. I presume these days, all leather thickness gauges are calibrated in millimetre:

    [​IMG]


    I remember a few years back, James Ducker writing in his blog: "How much is an 'iron?'.

    "Irons" is rather like the American "ounces" (for leather thickness), Nobody outside the country's boundaries does understand the term not even leather merchants: (Tony Crack of Northampton: "When Americas talk about 'ounces', I always have to look it up on a conversion table!")

    Length of a last is determined with a measuring stick in 'size' (on the Continent in PP) while circumference measurements or taken with a tape in inches (or millimetre respectively).
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2014
  15. laufer

    laufer Senior member

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    Gentleman we are working on GMTO for Gaziano and Girling chelsea boot through Skoaktiebolaget. So far we have three interested parties, one in E width, one in F width and one in G width. We need the minimum five orders in the same width before we can proceed with this GMTO. Here are the rest of the specifications.

    Model - Burnham chelsea wholecut boot made of single piece of letter.
    Last - MH71
    Color - Espresso leather but we can consider other shade of dark brown colors such as Mocha and Vintage Oak. ( @Leaves can we get please pictures of Espresso, Mocha and Vintage Oak next to each other.
    Soles - single leather soles?
    Width - if you are interested please let me know what width you would like, we need five orders to be in the same width.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  16. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Well, the idea that 'irons' is a defunct unit of measurement is simply not true. At least not on this side of the pond. Every shoe or bootmaker I know talks about, and understands, irons.

    And the idea that tools are marked in inches is also false. All collices of English or US manufacture, that I've ever seen (and I have a fair number of various origin) are marked in irons, as are corresponding hand outsole trimming tools.

    Trimmer blades and burnishing irons for Landis and Champion finishing machines are marked in irons. Always have been and continue to be AFAIK.

    James was mistaken in this observation, if he was talking about soling leather. No American shoe or bootmaker that I know orders outsole or insole leather in ounces. Saddle skirting, yes. Upper leather yes. But even heel lifts and rubber toplifting is measured in irons.

    I am confused about what you think James was saying, however (I didn't see that installment). Isn't he saying that irons are a standard of measurement in the UK? (he has to convert) And how does that square with 'irons' being "virtually defunct?"

    Maybe 'irons' are only defunct among the lay public. ??

    In the US, last length is usually measured in inches or millimeters which may be converted to the nearest standard size, or not...depending on whether a size designation is relevant (for bespoke makers, not so much).

    Having said all that, almost every finder, grindery, and leather wholesaler has their own version of a chart that converts between millimeters, inches, ounces, and irons, which they give out as promotional items....and have done for decades.

    Maybe, despite those decades, the case could be made that things are changing and "irons" are not as much of a standard as they once were, but straight from the bench, I can't think of the last time a finder or another shoemaker was not wholly conversant with the term. And used it.

    --
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2014
  17. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Don't some shoemakers still uses stick as a unit for shoe sizes?
     
  18. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Maybe. I tend to refer to last length as "the stick." But in theory the length of the foot (measured with an actual measuring stick) rather than the last, is the "stick." So my usage of the term may be suspect, I suppose...although lastmakers do sometimes use a stick to measure the last.

    In recent years...particularly with my students...I refer to last length as "SLL" (standard last length) as measured in millimeters, and foot length as "LOF" (length of foot)...again in millimeters. Millimeters are just easier to do math operations on. I take measurements and girths in inches and convert to metric simply because I'm used to the Imperial tapes that are common in the States.

    --
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2014
  19. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    Can't say I'm a fan... :bored:
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2014

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