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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, e

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Well-Known Member

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    Rothschilds or Westminsters in vintage oak? Help me decide!
     
  2. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    Tough choice, as far as those two choices, I prefer the classic wingtip to the Balmoral wingtip design. Although my favorite GG wingtip style is the Adelaide wingtip...
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    On the other hand I might have it backwards. I think I recall the owner of American Tanning telling me that when the hide was cut down the back, preserving the belly, it was called a back cut. But that was lots of years ago and either way makes sense. As long as we know what we're talking about.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2014
  4. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    From mine understanding for gators, belly cut has the whole belly in tact and hornback has the while back spine in one piece. Not sure if it's the same naming convention across different exotics.
     
  5. PCK1

    PCK1 Well-Known Member

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    I have the westminster in vintage burgundy and love them...very dressy!

    I have considered the rothschild as well...but will probably wear it more casually due to the heavy broguing.
     
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  6. armsignet

    armsignet Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. That's what I was thinking too. It has been a test of will to leave these shoes in my closet while I turned this over in my head. If it gets worse over time, maybe I'll refer G&G to my post and entreat them for a free mend. In the meantime, I think that a dab of Saphir will suffice.
     
  7. cdmoore1855

    cdmoore1855 Well-Known Member

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    G&G have always been more focused on RTW being the main business model, the bespoke was an output for Tony to be creative with new designs and make a splash in the industry. The MTM gave clients some opportunity to be creative at a lower cost but it slows down the RTW production. The money is going to be on mass sales of RTW and they need to make an awful lot of RTW to keep their shop running smoothly

    I doubt they phase out bespoke or MTM altogether
     
  8. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    Not a lot of people by a Porsche 911 GT3. But a lot of people buy a Porsche because Porsche still make racing cars. G&G will never stop bespoke, or MTO, but the price of those will always be inversely proportionate to their volume, and logically so.
     
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  9. Saratorial_Splender

    Saratorial_Splender Well-Known Member

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    Well said. OK. they are increasing RTW and Slowing down MTO & Bespoke.
    Thread closed.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2014
  10. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Another good analogy is that RTW is like a chain restaurant food...sometimes good sometimes not so good (drive-ins, diners, and dives)...but always quick and easy esp. for the restauranteurs. They have a set menu. A set list of ingredients and a set-up and line that makes assembling the pieces efficient to the point of being almost a no-brainer.

    Now compare that with mom's home cooking or a high end catering business. Every menu is unique and can be altered or swapped out for another. An almost endless list of ingredients has to be on hand and most of that kept fresh. Every dish on the menu needs personal attention.

    No business has to deliberately decide to cut down on MTO or bespoke, they only have to raise prices to reflect the distraction, the extra work and the increased inventory (essentially unrealized...maybe unrealizable..."futurities") that are necessary for bespoke or MTO.

    And such considerations take on extra import when compared to the almost mundane processes of assembly-line work. Not to mention reduced time to cash-flow turn-around, reduced inventories and less chance of "burning the soup" associated with RTW.

    --
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  11. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Well-Known Member

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    That's cool ... but it's yours?
     
  12. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Tony mentioned years ago that he planned to cap annual bespoke shoe production at 100/per year to maintain quality. Not sure if that is still the case.
     
  13. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    ^
    I see nothing wrong with that bespoke business strategy. At that level, I would not mind being on a list, knowing the end product would be kept to the same high standards...
     
  14. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    I have held this issue to myself long enough. I have had trouble with my last GG MTO, and as I received it back yesterday. One of the two issues was still unresolved. The grain leather shaft looks to be losing it's finish:

    [​IMG]

    GG says it's not a leather issue, that these white marks have come from my clothing somehow, and that they come off when rubbed with a damp cloth. I don't even own white pants, and have no idea why they came to this conclusion.

    To my credit, the example pic is from the shoes as they arrived yesterday. So if GG did indeed rub the white marks off, it was not so successful. I too tried to rub them off, and the water only temporarily saturated the spots away. As the quickly return.

    Any idea what this might be? Am I incorrect in thinking this is indeed a leather issue? I am very frustrated at the moment... :plain:
     
  15. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    My guess that it's an acrylic wax top coat.

    When a finish of that sort is applied to heavily grained leather it tends to accumulate in the low areas of the texture. And it's not subject to being rubbed off by clothing. So as the leather flexes, it cracks and the cracked areas turn white.

    Water will make it disappear for a while simply because acrylic is water soluble. The cracked finish re-hydrates and binds back together for a little while.

    I've never seen top coat be this big of a problem. I suspect it is as a result of too heavy an application of the finish.

    I suspect that if you brush hard when it is at its whitest it will slowly disappear. Brush, then apply a somewhat heavier than usual application of leather matching shoe cream and work it into the low areas. Don't glop it on, don't let it build up but do work it down thoroughly into the low places. Use a wax applicator brush to work it in.

    Might help, might not. Can't hurt.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  16. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    @DWFII

    Thank you for that explanation. I will definitely try that out at home. At this point, i am just looking for ways to resolve this myself. Thanks again for you help.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2014
  17. PCK1

    PCK1 Well-Known Member

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    Shined some of my G&G's this morning...mirrors :)

    Wigmore, Burlington, & Uppingham.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2014
    3 people like this.
  18. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    ^
    Well done, good sir, and a good use of that mink comforter... ;)
     
  19. PCK1

    PCK1 Well-Known Member

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    G&G has gotten a lot of heat recently because of their hike in prices across the board for RTW/MTO and because you now have to buy the trees...

    but I still love them...

    They are fantastic shoes...they fit great...the leather and the colors are fantastic and they take a shine so damn well!!


    At the end of the day...I will still buy their shoes. I like them enough to justify it. I may not undertake all of the crazy MTO's that I dreamed up...but I will still gradually build my collection of G&G styles.
     
  20. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    Ow, I love GG too, no need to sell me. Even with the new MTO prices, I was still planning on ordering a few pairs a year. They have a good fit that works for me, and that's something that I can't seem to find with other brands easily.

    I just wish I wasn't having such a skewed experience with their quality recently, cause I would love to feel good about ordering another pair. Looking pretty hard to make that choice for me at the moment...
     

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