Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.
SoS! Nice to see you; I've missed your exceptional insights and weird syntax!
it seems to me that folks at Cleverly are "disgusted" by hatch grain leather as much as by G&G made shoes. At least this is my oppression from your description of the event.
I must say that Russian reindeer calf is one of the biggest marketing gimmicks of all the time. It ranks right up there with selling of Brooklyn bridge. First we were led to believe that only cleverly can make those shoes and that supply is limited etc.
Then one of the forum members bought shoes in Russian reindeer made by Crockett and Jones on RTW model http://www.styleforum.net/t/203565/russian-calf-by-c-j
Now we see that Saint Crispin can make shoes in that leather too http://www.styleforum.net/t/45403/some-pics-of-saint-crispins-shoes/75
Laufer, to be fair to SC, I think you're mixing apples and oranges: nobody claimed there is a restricted supply of Russian reindeer. As the last check, both reindeer and Russians remained in ample supply.
GC's angle is this very limited amount of ancient hides recovered from the bottom of the sea, with its resultingly unusual (and one could argue, impractical) properties.
I stand corrected about Saint Crispin. In any case I find this bickering among shoemakers petty. I think what is important is the fit of the shoes. I do not own any shoes from G.J. Cleverley so I cannot comment on their quality but I suspect once you approach to level of EG RTW, G&G RTW or John Lobb Prestige or G.J. Cleverley Anthony Cleverley line, the fit of the shoes should be the deciding factor in making a purchase.
Anyways this is G&G appreciation thread so let's get back to it. I think you people should be giving Nick ideas for this month MTO shoes.
Aren't you confusing the 'hatchgrain' with the 'Metta Katharina' stuff?
The Metta Katharina leather is stiff and hard like cardboard. Partly because it is vegetable-tanned (chrome-tanning was not known back then) and partly because it was intended for bookbinding and never as leather for shoes. Chrome tanned leather is much softer and drapes much better than vegetable-tanned leathers. That's the reason why almost all upper leathers are chrome-tanned (maybe veg re-tanned) and bottom leathers are vegetable-tanned.
Another point, the quality of leather for shoes or other leather goods is determined to a large extend on the cutting/clicking room floor. Woven fabric can be used from selvedge to selvedge and throughout it's length. By contrast, a leather hide has always flaws and, depending on the position within the hide, the quality can go from top quality to downright unusable. It is the nature of the beast, that the leather from the lower back to the left and right of the spine is always the best. The higher up you go and the further into the belly, the worse the leather becomes.
In addition, leather stretches more in one direction than in the other one and the pattern pieces have to be cut from the hide, as to have the stretch going into the right direction The English rule is 'tight-to-toe', so you have the least stretch going lengthwise (although some other national schools of shoemaking might disagree on that) .
laufer - yes, back to GG i say. speaking of, i am right on the cusp of a new MTO with nick. huzzah huzzah!!!
Polo Suede St James II - But what is the MTO part? HMMMM
working that out.
Herr Laufer: agreed on all counts!
Bengal; fascinating - for some reason I'm now craving a sirloin...seems the bootmakers are too! Thanks for another round of enlightenment.
Stitchy, you're so cute when you're excited. Not in a homo way, obviously...
indeed i am.
Cute, or in a homo way?
Homo's where the heart is, they say...
I just placed an order for a pair of them myself. Didn't do anything fancy from a MTO POV. I'm not as creative as some of you guys.
If it works, why fix it, enjoy your MTO.
I'm wondering if they can make the Sinatra as a seamless wholecut in MTO. I would go for that...
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