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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, e

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    thanks for sharing that bit about John Carnera. i was getting a little annoyed that everyone in the shoe biz seems to be a whiny little bitch. glad its not across the board.
     
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  2. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    Didn't Tony & Dean both work for EG? I wonder how they feel about them...
     
  3. Leaves

    Leaves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    That's correct, and Cleverley too (or maybe that was Dean only). Tony is supposed to have designed the 888 and 82 lasts as well.

    There seems to be a lot of bad blood and intrigue in Northampton. Put a few pints in any Northampton shoe maker and you will hear a lot of funny/interesting stories. :)
     
  4. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    A couple of years ago, I ran into George Glasgow Jr. in Leather Soul Beverly Hills. He was a perfect gentleman and took quite a bit time just talking with me and a friend about shoes even though it was clear I was just killing time and wasn't buying anything--let alone commissioning bespoke shoes. I think I was wearing G&Gs at the time. I just ordered my first pair of Cleverly from the Anthony Cleverly line. Looking forward to receiving them, but I think the last shape bears quite a bit of similarity to my G&Gs.
     
  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I remember a while ago when Leathersoul dropped G&G and picked up Cleverley. Wondering if there was some interesting backstory to the whole thing....
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2013
  6. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    The whole Northampton town must be full of very interesting dirty stories as so many shoemaking factories closed down shops and all the high profile mergers and stealing orders from each other.

    G&G are very good and aggressive businessman and must have crossed a lot of people on their path to the success they have today. Imaging some maker losing a major order to G&G and how they must feel.

    p.s., LS told me that G&G leather used is not as nice as EG or Cleverley. I don't think that's true but interesting nevertheless.
     
  7. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I am not surprised if G&G use worse leather than GC, good leathers are hard to come by these days.

    Besides, I do find my AC RTW has very good leather, certainly more buttery than my G&G.

    Hatchgrain is one of the stiffest leather I have ever encountered, be warned.
     
  8. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    With G&G's volume, they should certainly be able to source the same if not better leather than GC RTW, IMO. But I don't know anyone who's in the trade and never talked to AACrack regarding the leather sourcing industry in UK.

    If any, the never ending supply of mythical Russian Reindeer is certainly GC only. Or whichever tannery Hermes Group acquired is only accessible via JL...

    p.s., hatch grain I've handled aren't that stiff and is thicker than some of the calf leathers. But all those could be misleading as makers do skive.
     
  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    OUCH! I've heard a G&G exec say otherwise :)


    Ok, as far as I know, G&G uses the following leather

    RTW Black Calf: Freudenburg by Weinheimer
    RTW Colored Calf: Zonta
    Suede: Zonta

    Deco (including Deco Black): Zonta
    Bespoke: RTW stocks + Deadstock Freudenburgs, Baby calfskin (Zonta, Ilcea etc...), French skins from Annonay + DePuy, + exotics (Italian Mississippi Alligator etc..)

    From what I know, Edward Green mainly uses Zonta, including their black calf.

    Please correct me if my information is wrong.
     
  10. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    yes,
    it true.
    E.G leather very very good.
    John Lobb prestige leather better
    Anthony Cleverley leather best of English shoe
    C&J hand grade leather = good but it have flaw easy to see and look bad compare to AC
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2013
  11. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    SoS! Nice to see you; I've missed your exceptional insights and weird syntax!
     
  12. laufer

    laufer Senior member

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    it seems to me that folks at Cleverly are "disgusted" by hatch grain leather as much as by G&G made shoes. At least this is my oppression from your description of the event.

    I must say that Russian reindeer calf is one of the biggest marketing gimmicks of all the time. It ranks right up there with selling of Brooklyn bridge. First we were led to believe that only cleverly can make those shoes and that supply is limited etc.

    Then one of the forum members bought shoes in Russian reindeer made by Crockett and Jones on RTW model http://www.styleforum.net/t/203565/russian-calf-by-c-j

    Now we see that Saint Crispin can make shoes in that leather too http://www.styleforum.net/t/45403/some-pics-of-saint-crispins-shoes/75

    Whatever.
     
  13. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Laufer, to be fair to SC, I think you're mixing apples and oranges: nobody claimed there is a restricted supply of Russian reindeer. As the last check, both reindeer and Russians remained in ample supply.

    GC's angle is this very limited amount of ancient hides recovered from the bottom of the sea, with its resultingly unusual (and one could argue, impractical) properties.
     
  14. laufer

    laufer Senior member

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    I stand corrected about Saint Crispin. In any case I find this bickering among shoemakers petty. I think what is important is the fit of the shoes. I do not own any shoes from G.J. Cleverley so I cannot comment on their quality but I suspect once you approach to level of EG RTW, G&G RTW or John Lobb Prestige or G.J. Cleverley Anthony Cleverley line, the fit of the shoes should be the deciding factor in making a purchase.

    Anyways this is G&G appreciation thread so let's get back to it. I think you people should be giving Nick ideas for this month MTO shoes.
     
    2 people like this.
  15. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Aren't you confusing the 'hatchgrain' with the 'Metta Katharina' stuff?

    The Metta Katharina leather is stiff and hard like cardboard. Partly because it is vegetable-tanned (chrome-tanning was not known back then) and partly because it was intended for bookbinding and never as leather for shoes. Chrome tanned leather is much softer and drapes much better than vegetable-tanned leathers. That's the reason why almost all upper leathers are chrome-tanned (maybe veg re-tanned) and bottom leathers are vegetable-tanned.

    Another point, the quality of leather for shoes or other leather goods is determined to a large extend on the cutting/clicking room floor. Woven fabric can be used from selvedge to selvedge and throughout it's length. By contrast, a leather hide has always flaws and, depending on the position within the hide, the quality can go from top quality to downright unusable. It is the nature of the beast, that the leather from the lower back to the left and right of the spine is always the best. The higher up you go and the further into the belly, the worse the leather becomes.

    [​IMG]

    In addition, leather stretches more in one direction than in the other one and the pattern pieces have to be cut from the hide, as to have the stretch going into the right direction The English rule is 'tight-to-toe', so you have the least stretch going lengthwise (although some other national schools of shoemaking might disagree on that) .
     
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  16. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    laufer - yes, back to GG i say. speaking of, i am right on the cusp of a new MTO with nick. huzzah huzzah!!!
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2013
  17. nickrut

    nickrut Senior member

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    Polo Suede St James II - But what is the MTO part? HMMMM
     
  18. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    :lurk: working that out.
     
  19. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Herr Laufer: agreed on all counts!

    Bengal; fascinating - for some reason I'm now craving a sirloin...seems the bootmakers are too! Thanks for another round of enlightenment.

    Stitchy, you're so cute when you're excited. Not in a homo way, obviously...
     
  20. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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