Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, e

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    LeJouvre: if you're willing to risk it, you can try resoling at some cordwainer's apprentice. This won't be as cheap as some local cobbler shop, but at least the apprentice will most likely know his/her methods.
     


  2. DerekS

    DerekS Guyliner

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    a quick teaser pic.....
    [​IMG]
     


  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I find this both incomprehensible and to some extent even hypocritical.

    The substance, and more disingenuously, the implication that using sanding wheels is somehow inferior or declasse' is astounding especially coming from people who bridle at the suggestion that GY construction (entirely dependent on machine work) is flawed by comparison to hand welting.

    The fact is...in shoemaking, in any Trade (as anyone who has ever worked with his hands will, if honest, tell you)...when the scraps are swept up if the results are the same or even (rarely ) objectively, better when using a machine there is no harm, no foul. Ultimately, a sewing machine is just a tool.

    To the extent, in certain contexts, that the machine becomes such a dominant part of the process that the operator is no longer is required or able to affect the outcome, or bring any level of creativity to bear, yes, it is dehumanizing and ultimately produces unsatisfactory results.

    But the object of any Trade/Craft is to produce the best product possible with the resources available. And it begins...unlike the factory context...with the assumption that that the human being is the ultimate, most adaptable, most creative, most precious resource.

    It is foolish, in my opinion, to glorify makers or techniques simply for the sake of bragging rights--and, and more importantly, it betrays any real insights or intimate experience in the process.

    Parenthetically...and just for perspective...what is not being said in much of this is that in many European countries...Hungary, England, come to mind, the most reknown shoemakers don't even make the entire shoe themselves. They "farm out" the uppers. So the assertion that no machines are used is really an exercise in denial. Because the uppers are almost certainly sewn on a machine...by someone else--as if the "maker" doesn't know how to do that work him/herself.

    I don't personally have a problem with that as long as the maker or outworker is in control of the process and the results but I do find it a bit disturbing to mislead the public.

    It is the objective, rational, mechanical results that count. In competent hands...the hands of a dedicated sheomaker such as Anthony Delos, for instance... sanding wheels will not materially affect the results.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2012


  4. Sir F

    Sir F Senior member

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    Derek, even the dog wants you to open it now!
     


  5. DerekS

    DerekS Guyliner

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    [​IMG]

    forgot i didnt post a pic here hahaha.

    Hoves on the DG70 last.
     


  6. Sir F

    Sir F Senior member

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    Really nice, congrats hope you enjoy them!
     


  7. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    :slayer:
     


  8. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    let me take this opportunity to again say :slayer:
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2012


  9. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In English shoemaking which aims for "West-End Standard" (the equivalent of "Savile Row Standard") a sanding wheel in shoemaking as well as in last making is simply not used by anyone. Were it to be used, it would not be West-End standards. Whether this fact is based on aiming for the best-possible quality or on fuddy-duddy-ism is neither here nor there. It is the choice of the leading West-End firms and thus should be respected. I have just mentioned it, to explain (at least in parts) the price difference between a factory and a bespoke shoe repair.


    What about two of your personal bĂȘtes noires which a dedicated shoemaker like Anthony Delos also uses: wooden shanks and iron nails in the heels. Could it be that neither of those components materially affects the results? Or maybe even that Delos has come to the conclusion that these materials (which you consider to be a disaster) are his components of choice.

    Janne Melkersson (a wise old bird that he is) once said: "There are as many ways of making a shoe as there are shoemakers". Sometimes it might pay to look over the edge of one's plate.
     


  10. JonathanCWalker

    JonathanCWalker Senior member

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    Today I'm wearing my "Grant" Vintage Oak TG73 6.5 F

    Could do with a little touch up they are 2 years old now

    [​IMG]
     


  11. Sir F

    Sir F Senior member

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    You need to make those as new man, shame to f*ck them up like that :(!
     


  12. JonathanCWalker

    JonathanCWalker Senior member

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    They will be getting a good polish next week
     


  13. Sir F

    Sir F Senior member

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    Great! Then we have a before and after picture [​IMG]
     


  14. JonathanCWalker

    JonathanCWalker Senior member

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    Very true.

    Just ordered 4 MTO G&G's yesterday so when they eventually arrive in 5 months i'll post them up.

    Whats in your collection Sir F?
     


  15. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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    No, my St James, Cambridge, Sinatra and Grants all cost me above and below $800 each at full retail.

    If these shoes need to be sent to b.nelson then you would not really refer to them as prestige and quality shoes now would you?

    The point I was trying to make was a simple one, which is that the benefit of a quality shoe, as with any item which claims the status of "quality", is that ownership should accompany the knowledge that the item will endure in longevity without the added requirement of uneconomical maintenance.

    Other than aesthetic value, economic longevity is part of the definition of the term "quality".

    I have not returned my G&G for refurb yet, but I have returned my JL and EG numerous times already, and never have I paid that much for a refurb unless there was additional repair work required.

    Hell, even lowly old Allen Edmonds will resole for a miserly $50.00. If G&G cost double the price, even triple, quadruple the price of Allen Edmonds, you still find it difficult to justify almost $500.00 for the same service.
     


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