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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, e

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Terrific, thanks Nutcracker, what were the comments on the other shoes?

    So, you also want the articles about JM Weston Golf, Green's Dover and Alden shell V-tip translated and scanned?

    Aren't you asking a bit much from the poor Nutcracker?

    Nutcracker - terrific posting! Thanks for your work!
     
  2. pabloj

    pabloj Senior member

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    For those who know a bit of french Depiedencap demontage they dissected lots of shoes ... interesting findings
     
  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Terrific, thanks Nutcracker, what were the comments on the other shoes? What made the JMWs stand out?

    Thanks Jorge. I'll think about translating the other pages if I can squeeze in some time [​IMG]

    JM Weston got top marks for quality leather inside out, the accuracy of the upper stitching, using old-school construction method such as the midsole cut with a fuller/groove (?), flexible midsole made of split leather, a comfortable fitting last, and being the most inexpensive one from the crop also helped. In Japan, Golf costs 98,000 yen ($1200 USD), vs 137,550 ($1700) for EG Dover, and a whopping 155,000 yen ($1900) for G&G St. James.
     
  4. DLKY

    DLKY Senior member

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    Thanks for the great scanlation Nutcracker!
     
  5. commodorewheeler

    commodorewheeler Senior member

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    Hi Fellas!

    Just for fun, I did some translation (Japanese to English) from the new June edition of MENS'EX magazine. From those who haven't heard, those blasphemous editors dissected some of the most iconic dress shoes (JM Weston Golf, Green's Dover, Alden shell V-tip, and G&G St.James) to analyze their quality (JM Weston got the highest overall mark btw). Really quite a shame that non-Japanese can't appreciate the bloody sacrifices. My translation (and grammar) isn't pitch perfect, but should be understandable for most of you. I'm also attaching the original Japanese version for you to compare, as well as a more crisp version as an attached file.

    Been lurking here on this thread for a while, just thought I could contribute some. Enjoy [​IMG]


    Thanks for the translation! Very informative.
     
  6. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    great post, i hope you can do the others
     
  7. jamaican

    jamaican Senior member

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    Thanks Jorge. I'll think about translating the other pages if I can squeeze in some time [​IMG]

    JM Weston got top marks for quality leather inside out, the accuracy of the upper stitching, using old-school construction method such as the midsole cut with a fuller/groove (?), flexible midsole made of split leather, a comfortable fitting last, and being the most inexpensive one from the crop also helped. In Japan, Golf costs 98,000 yen ($1200 USD), vs 137,550 ($1700) for EG Dover, and a whopping 155,000 yen ($1900) for G&G St. James.


    Wow... I didn't realise that shoes were that insanely expensive in Japan. USD 1,900 for G&Gs is just too much... do Japan sibsidise the cost for the rest of us? J
     
  8. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    Wow... I didn't realise that shoes were that insanely expensive in Japan. USD 1,900 for G&Gs is just too much... do Japan sibsidise the cost for the rest of us? J

    I know people for who think that(converted) ca. 1500€ for St.Crispin's is a good deal in Japan and that is ca.50% more than in Euroland.
     
  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Wow... I didn't realise that shoes were that insanely expensive in Japan. USD 1,900 for G&Gs is just too much... do Japan sibsidise the cost for the rest of us? J

    LOL, I don't how the whole tariff business works for luxury goods, but yeah its' close to double of UK price. I know quite a lot of Japanese lads go straight to Nick or even Dean for a pair (or pairs).
     
  10. Jorge

    Jorge Senior member

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    Thanks Jorge. I'll think about translating the other pages if I can squeeze in some time [​IMG]

    JM Weston got top marks for quality leather inside out, the accuracy of the upper stitching, using old-school construction method such as the midsole cut with a fuller/groove (?), flexible midsole made of split leather, a comfortable fitting last, and being the most inexpensive one from the crop also helped. In Japan, Golf costs 98,000 yen ($1200 USD), vs 137,550 ($1700) for EG Dover, and a whopping 155,000 yen ($1900) for G&G St. James.


    Thanks again Nutcracker. I have a few pairs of JMW and always thought them well made.
    I find these shoe dismemberment stories interesting.
     
  11. jhcam8

    jhcam8 Senior member

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    Wow... I didn't realise that shoes were that insanely expensive in Japan. USD 1,900 for G&Gs is just too much... do Japan sibsidise the cost for the rest of us? J

    You're thinking that G&G is pocketing the difference?

    rethink!
     
  12. commodorewheeler

    commodorewheeler Senior member

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    Wow... I didn't realise that shoes were that insanely expensive in Japan. USD 1,900 for G&Gs is just too much... do Japan sibsidise the cost for the rest of us? J

    I know you're probably kidding, but I bet the difference goes to the Japanese government in the form of an import tariff.
     
  13. KlezmerBlues

    KlezmerBlues Senior member

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    Thank you for a great thread! Are there any good comparison shots between the different G&G lasts and EG lasts? Would I be right in assuming that the G&G lasts are a bit more elongated, and that: DG70≈82; TG73≈888; GG06≈202; MH71≈606?
     
  14. iyorito

    iyorito Senior member

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    Duty and the Japanese agent takes a huge provision for currency fluctuations. We get nothing more than the wholesale price.

    M.Hasegawa, Director
    Gaziano and Girling Limited
     
  15. cdmoore1855

    cdmoore1855 Senior member

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    Most luxury goods with the exception of watches and jewellery tends to be far higher priced in Asia, sometimes to do with luxury goods taxes and sometimes just because the brand is damn greedy and own all the retail outlets. Take LV for example, there is no Luxury goods tax in HK nor any Duty or standard sales tax, yet the price can be slightly higher than the regular UK retail price. If you buy in the UK you will get it 20% off once the VAT is removed. There is no way to justify that except greed, not being content with the fact that HK accounts for large % of their sales, they ramp up the price. Yes retail rent is high here, but so is 5th Avenue, Champs Elysees (however you spell it) and Bond St, likely higher I would guess plus higher staff costs and for sure higher profits taxes.
     
  16. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hi Folks,

    Due to popular request, here is my scanlation of the EG Dover dissection (from June issue of MEN'S EX). Again, I attached a crisper image below.

    Enjoy [​IMG]

    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  17. Jangofett

    Jangofett Senior member

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    Most luxury goods with the exception of watches and jewellery tends to be far higher priced in Asia, sometimes to do with luxury goods taxes and sometimes just because the brand is damn greedy and own all the retail outlets. Take LV for example, there is no Luxury goods tax in HK nor any Duty or standard sales tax, yet the price can be slightly higher than the regular UK retail price. If you buy in the UK you will get it 20% off once the VAT is removed. There is no way to justify that except greed, not being content with the fact that HK accounts for large % of their sales, they ramp up the price. Yes retail rent is high here, but so is 5th Avenue, Champs Elysees (however you spell it) and Bond St, likely higher I would guess plus higher staff costs and for sure higher profits taxes.

    Hey, if you can sell something for 10.5 k and not 9 k, who would sell it for 9 k?
    Anyway, even if U VAT is 17.5% or 20%, you would never get the exact same amount due to local agents wanting a cut for their expenses etc.
     
  18. jamestct

    jamestct Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for a great thread! Are there any good comparison shots between the different G&G lasts and EG lasts? Would I be right in assuming that the G&G lasts are a bit more elongated, and that: DG70≈82; TG73≈888; GG06≈202; MH71≈606?

    I'm pretty sure all G&G lasts are similar to the EG 888, differing only in toe shape. All G&G lasts therefore fit the same, unlike the various EG lasts.
     
  19. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here is my Weston scanlation (from June issue MEN's EX). This shoe won the top score among the 4 (including an Alden shell). Once I'm done, I might compile the scanlations and post it in a new, more appropriate thread. For now, enjoy! [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  20. onix

    onix Senior member

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    ^ This is awesome. Thanks Nutcracker.
     

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