Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, e

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. Xenon

    Xenon Senior member

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    Well I am trying it now (well not now but on week ends) and what I did was to put a regular dry stitch (no thread) just on the lining alone (to make evenly spaced holes). Then when I push the needle through the stingray (in between the beads) I can angle the needle in irder to intersect with the evenly spaced hole in the lining. The result so far is that the stictch is barely visible on the stingray side because it is hidden by beads (almost) and on the lining side looks relatively clean because the spacing was pre done. I shall see how it looks in the end but maybe the angled thread wil cause some bunching or stretching of the lining side.
     


  2. Frank the sheep

    Frank the sheep Senior member

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    Very interesting to read. Thanks to both of you for taking the time to educate the rest of us in the art of shoe making :D
     


  3. Leaves

    Leaves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Huh, have you had that confirmed by Dean? Or is it just a myth? I have had them made for a client that is a 10.5. See below. Deco Cooper (repost).

    [​IMG]
     


  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    This was true up until very recently (but I'm not sure for how long it was true before that), but they've recently found another supplier with large hides.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2012


  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not saying that it can't be done or even that doing it by hand is a bad approach...but that said, I will be very interested in what you come up with.

    I see several problems that aren't apparent in the telling: Ordinarily linings are mounted with some excess left above the topline. This allows the excess to be trimmed off neatly and closely to the bead or the folded edge of the topline. It also mitigates any problems that might develop when the topline is being stitched due to the lining not being properly lined up with the topline--it is difficult, if not unreasonably difficult, to machine stitch close to a blind edge.

    Of course you might be thinking that since you're doing this by hand, all that is moot.

    But if you cut the lining such that it seems to be an exact fit along the topline and then try to mount it you may find that problems arise simply because a lining and an upper are not exactly the same size...and you've got an "orange peel effect." Compounding that is the issue of pre/dry-stitching the top edge of the lining. How do you insure that the holes in the lining are spaced evenly and close enough to, or far enough from, the topline?

    And if you leave some excess...a "trim allowance"...then how, and where, do you dry stitch the lining such that you can align the holes relative to the topline of the quarters?

    Either way, it's not going to be easy and I suspect that if you compare the results--the stitching on the lining--with a calf shoe that has been machine stitched and trimmed...after the fact, so to speak...that you will be a bit disappointed.

    Regardless, I hope you will take photos of both the process and the results.

    Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2012


  6. Xenon

    Xenon Senior member

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    Thanks, I am going to need it for sure.

    p.s. If it looks like homemade sin I am not posting pictures, lol!
     


  7. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    That's good to hear, a standalone special case based upon imagination :slayer:
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2012


  8. Ivon

    Ivon Senior member

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    Speaking of wholecuts, I have a couple of quick questions. I am currently intrigued by the Sinatra, being wholecuts, are there any issues with regards to excess stretching or greasing after some wear? Any suggestions on what I should wear them with? I've ruled out my business suits at the office so far. Thanks.
     


  9. Ivon

    Ivon Senior member

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    Creasing*, stupid auto spell check on my iPhone.
     


  10. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    I think I liked 'greasing' better! :D

    Wholecuts can turn a little bit blobby as they age. But with good leather it can take quite a while. And if you think about it, the area that creases is no different structurally from a captoe. So the creasing isn't really any different. It's just that it somehow seems less appropriate on a well worn wholecut than on a captoe.

    I have a pair of Grants (Sinatra with medallion) that look great after maybe 20 wearings. I'm sure they will go quite a number of years before they look too frumpy to wear.

    As for wearing with suits - I do. Although I always feel that they are not quite right in some way.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2012


  11. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I typically grease my GGs as well.
     


  12. Leaves

    Leaves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Less talk and more pics!

    [​IMG]
    Hughes

    [​IMG]
    Deco Cooper

    [​IMG]
    Dorchester

    [​IMG]
    Westbury
     


  13. claes500

    claes500 Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    My newest MTO, this time a native Swedish order from Leaves/ Allde! Thanks for the help!

    Westbury on the TG73 in Racing Green
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2012


  14. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    you like the frankenstich? see me surprised...
     


  15. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    volltreffer
     


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