Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, e

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Actually the term "Goodyear" means...technically and contemporaneously...that the welt and upper are sewn, by machine to a canvas rib that is glued to the insole. Fundamentally, the holding principle, holding the shoe together, is glue. And in a very real sense, nothing is holding the upper to the insole--there is no direct attachment.

    Some people use the term "Goodyear" to refer to any welted construction...but that's not correct.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2012


  2. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    Would it be accurate to state that the gemming is essentially a substitution for the 'feather'?
     


  3. justinkapur

    justinkapur Senior member

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    Guys quick question, if I am between a US 9.5 and US 10 would I opt for a UK9 or UK9.5 in GG? I am trying to hound in on the size so I can order a pair of Oakhams.
     


  4. Sir F

    Sir F Senior member

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    Well I took a half size bigger in G&G. As they are smaller in size. I would take a 9,5 UK
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2012


  5. Sir F

    Sir F Senior member

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    And now good morning! Glad to hear that [​IMG]! And now I have to go to work in my boring .... Tod's shoes, I feel diffrent [​IMG]
     


  6. justinkapur

    justinkapur Senior member

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    Did they feel comfortable or snug when you first wore them and have they stretched significantly? I would hate to buy them a 1/2 size up and they stretch too much making them loose
     


  7. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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    +1. I would only size down a half size. 10US = 9.5UK. My experience with the TG73 and DG70
     


  8. Sir F

    Sir F Senior member

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    Well they fited me like a glove and after a while they will stretch up a bit that will make them even more comfortable [​IMG] Good luck!
     


  9. jammyo40

    jammyo40 Well-Known Member

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    +2. US 8.5E -> UK 8F (TG73)
     


  10. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    do you guys only factor size or other parameters e.g. high/low instep, narrow heel, wide forefoot etc., etc. and style: derby or oxford/bal?
     


  11. jammyo40

    jammyo40 Well-Known Member

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    At the time I got my first G&Gs, I was a complete shoe noob (still am), so I probably wouldn't have. Thankfully, Dean was there to guide the way when he was in Dallas.
     


  12. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    this makes a biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiig difference. that's why, i always chuckle when people give size advise solely on numbers. each to his own.
     


  13. jammyo40

    jammyo40 Well-Known Member

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    Yeap. Nothing like a master shoemaker to personally observe and measure your feet :D Also, trying on that croc suede deco loafer during the trunk show was pretty sweet too.
     


  14. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    i totally agree, still the majority here thinks brand whoring and groupthink is more effective. this is of course not a g&g thing.

    b&s is full of these wisenheimer attempts...
     


  15. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Gemming is a substitute for the "holdfast."

    Around the perimeter of the bottom of the last...in the forepart, esp....the last will have a sharp corner defining the bottom. This is known as the "featherline." The "feather" is the extreme edge of the insole...cut to the featherline. Often when the shoe is handwelted and there is sufficient substance, the feather will be "rabbeted."

    Further in, a groove or cut is made in the insole which parallels the feather. This is known as the "channel."

    The space in-between is the "holdfast."

    The stitching goes from the channel through the holdfast, emerging in the feather and then piercing and including the upper and welt in the "inseam." The inseam connects the welt and upper to the insole.

    Something like this:

    [​IMG]
     


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