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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, e

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Alfred Sargent puts the nailhead initials for MTO.
     


  2. Sir F

    Sir F Senior member

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  3. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    The welt and the inseam, in my opinion. Or if the welt is created by turning up an edge of the insole then just the inseam. If these are machine stitched (goodyear, blake or otherwise) the shoe is not entirely handmade by MY definition.

    As you say - almost nobody, if not absolutely nobody, handstitches all of the seams/edges on the uppers, excluding 'special effects' such as skin stitches, apron stitches etc. etc.

    Again - I'm getting in a bit past my level of expertise - but I would think nobody would call a goodyear welted shoe, such as G&G completely or truly handmade. At least not most bespoke shoemakers.

    Nor is it to say that there is a firm definition of a 'handmade' shoe, IMO.

    Sorry if my post was confusing. i can see that it seems I was saying that uppers must be handstitched and that was not my intention.
     


  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Why don't you just go to the G&G website?
     


  5. Sir F

    Sir F Senior member

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    But I can't buy from there website, can I?
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2012


  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    No, but you can look at models and then do a MTO through Bespoke England.
     


  7. Frank the sheep

    Frank the sheep Senior member

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    That site is crap. Think the scandinavian agent Leaves wrote in this thread tha GG has 70 models, they don´t have half of them in the site. But why would they spent time and money on the web site, the demand is higher than the supply...
     


  8. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    it will be if you are baller about it. gotta make it worth it.


    AS =/= G&G

    no beef with them, but its not the same


    i believe yes


    no, i do not think so. but trust me when i say nick at bespoke is the freaking man. all these questions you have. send em his way and he will set you straight.
     


  9. Sir F

    Sir F Senior member

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    I thought so too. I'm little off here maybe, but who is Nick [​IMG]?
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2012


  10. Frank the sheep

    Frank the sheep Senior member

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    He´s the guy at Bespoke England :D
     


  11. Sir F

    Sir F Senior member

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    Lol, I think I have to go to sleep now man I can see i'm asking foolish questions... Thanks for the answers guys!

    Good night (EU-Time) !
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2012


  12. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    there are no foolish questions as long as you are earnest. its the only way to learn buddy. sleep well.
     


  13. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    I was not asking any technical question, so dont worry.
    The terms you use seem to be a little messed up I think, I dont know what you mean by the "inseam", but if you mean a certain visible seam on the insole of the shoe, then you get into some kind of dilemma as many (if not most for bespoke) handsewn/handwelted shoes wont show this "inseam" (just like machine goodyear-welted shoes like these here will not, to add to it).
    Many Italian shoemakers will call a bespoke pair of shoes contruction "goodyear a mano" or "blake a mano" (or whatever, depending what is is) although the shoes have never seen a goodyear machine from near... though relatively efficient, it is a confusing nomenclatura.
    Bengal stripe usually clears up those technical things with good illustrations etc. look for his posts :).
     


  14. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    exactly.

    imo, the confusion was about the handstitched uppers and this is already cleared up.
     


  15. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    I did a little rereading of the Vass book and some of the posts of DWFII and I think I have this right.

    To clarify further: The 'Seam' or 'Inseam' is the row of stiches which attaches the upper to the insole. This stitch also typically goes through the welt strip in handsewn, welted shoes.

    The welt stitch is the stitch which then connects the welt strip to the sole.

    In my mind these are the two stitches, which hold the entire shoe together, that must be done by hand before a shoe can be called 'handmade'.

    And no Goodyear welted shoe can be called handmade because the welt strip is sewn to the sole by a machine. (Unless the term 'Goodyear welted' is being misused.)

    Someone will surely correct me if my description is mistaken.
     


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