Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.
Good news, N.
Sorry mang, I have the shoes, but no pix yet. Tomorrow evening. Hope you can last that long
MT - hoves looks great as do the kensingtons, nice haul i reckon!
that is all that matters. enjoy!!
i can hold out another day, but thats about it.
really love that Arran.
Glad it worked out.
lt much more hard for inexperience man to do this because no pen and wheeling marks to guide the stitches. lt much easier to stitch when guide is here (see picture): Tony/Dean have no written guide so it hard to stitch even unless very very experience man in this stitch.
...I've never seen a more twisted version of Norvegese than on that pair just posted. Who dunnit?
that's what i said. actually, i know some. not delos...
Delos a super super man,
a level above.
Anyone have picture of Ed Hayes famous bespoke G&G shoe,
it Tonys most unusual shoe.
I have to disagree somewhat.
Once upon a time...and still, in some places... all hand stitching, regardless of the spi or the location on the shoe or boot was taught and done by eye. Stitching 16 per inch (or even 40 per inch) was never done with a "guide." It was wholly dependent on the maker's ability to "see." No stitch markers, no rulers, no pens. In fact, training the eye to "see" is one of the critical skills a maker must learn and master.
Why this pair of shoes falls so short of expectations is beyond me. Tony is very experienced. Maybe this was an apprentice.
That said, I, personally, don't care for Goiser stitching. It is ostentatious and obtrusive. It's not really even functional. It just screams "look at me!" And that detracts from leather and the shoe as a whole, if only because it forces the viewer to separate the shoe into components. In my opinion, it is very like tool marks left on a stone sculpture--it draws attention to the maker rather than the product. And that seems indicative of a certain insecurity from my POV. Might as well add a Rendenbach outsole and a Nike-esque swash on the side.
Perhaps in neon orange. I'm sure Tony would be happy to put his name on those!
Some maker born with natural talent and very very good and close to perfect,
but only some.
Goiser/bentivegna/norvegese is very very good.
Me love the heavy stitch very very much.
Me like the goiser (reverse welt stitch) mixed with bentivegna the best (5 row of stitches. it on Dinkelacker shoes).
One stitch go into feather,
two stitch go into side of insole using hook awl (it rare) and take 4 year to learn the skill,
one stitch go through welt to midsole,
one stitch go through welt to midsole to outsole.
Dinkelaker maker very very skilled man and well paid.
They still look horrible though don't they.
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