Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.
Since G&G/EG are both gemmed, how would the process change for making the beveled waist?
Goodyear welting won't affect whether a beveled waist can be implemented or not. But as we see with many other companies, once the company decides to embrace time and cost saving measures in one part of the process, the door is opened for all kinds of further expediencies.
From what i understand from various discussions threads, all UK RTW makers including JL does gemming, so that's the lowest common denominator.
Maybe the change in sole/heel separation/notch has something to do with its recent change of manufacturer? AS Handgrades still retains that feature.
Yeah, pictures from the recently stocked shoes at Bespoke England website are all missing the notch.
Was waiting for someone to point that out. Lol.
I think you have a point, but I do hope you are proven wrong. Alfred Sargent must have a smirk on their faces now.
Are people going to stop ordering G&G's because this notch is missing, I doubt it
Interestingly the notch is much more pronounced on their RTW/MTO's than the bespokes. Cleverley's AC line don't have it either nor do cleverley's bespoke really have it
Unless I'm totally mistaken by the picture, that pair of shoes is not made with a 'bevelled' but a 'square' waist. Look at the medial (inside) waist: it does not go down to nothing with hidden stitching and a semi-curved profile. The square edge of the sole continues square under the waist before it goes into the straight-cut heel stack. So, there is no need to separate the convex with the straight edge, using a step.
It's a question of choice whether you employ a bevelled or a square waist. In the case of that particular shoe with it's excessive perforations, a square waist looks to me the (stylistically) correct solution.
All these are sans notch, and I would think they have beveled waist and fiddle back. Photos borrowed from Leffot's blog.
At the Dallas Trunk show, Tony had the Regency on display in Polo suede. It's actually the one I've ordered, except with a cap toe and medallion. See pic...
i like it. enjoy!
Cross post from the Rock your Shoes/Socks Combo Thread
G & G Grants on their maiden voyage.
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