Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.
^+1 I don't remember my Hayes looking that wide
I'll pm you mine.
Sorry - I simply meant if I'm limited to one pair of G&G should I go the calf or pigskin route as opposed to suede. I'd originally wanted shell, but Tony explained how they have a hard time finding shell which meets their high standards. I've never paid $1200 for a pair of shoes, so I was just seeking advice from those of you who have experience with these kinds of purchases - wondering if down the line I'd regret going with suede.
^ Only you can answer that, my friend. For what it's worth, I have a pr of suede on order - but I have some leather and shell also. Maybe you could ease into it with some suede in the $5-700 range?
I personally like the looks of suede...but you need to be aware that depending on how it is produced it can be a very delicate and weak leather.
And anytime the grain surface is stripped off or turned to the inside, the result will always be nearly as water absorbent as a sponge. And dirt, too, will tend to not only accumulate more readily on suede but be harder to remove.
I'd personally go with a discreet calf in that case. It’s the most versatile choice in my opinion. Suede and pigskin are more casual, while you can wear Black Calf or Vintage Oak Calf for most occassions.
i love suede, but in my experience they are best as an occasional shoe. if youre looking for a workhorse shoe you might want a less delicate leather.
i guess our friend is after the distinctive design of g&g, which is rather unique on the market. probably carmina could offer an alternative.
same, when people cannot understand a bespoke pair in black. imo, why compromising in fit and comfort?
suede is one of the least delicate.
i guess the suede shoes ive had in the past were just crappy then. or i didnt know how to care for them. either way tbh i havent had a pair in a while cuz the ones i had didnt hold up. well,
i guess its time for me to get back into suede from a respectable maker. i already have a good suede maintenance kit, thanks spoo!
+1 - Steven at Leffot also has this opinion.
Au contraire...you're over your head and your paygrade here. Much of the suede on the market is goat skin. Goat is not high on the list of leathers with good tensile strength. You can often rip it with very little effort and bare hands. And goat (and 'kid' --young goat) are notorious for 'peeling'...when the grain surface is struck the grain itself will peel back.
Another large portion of the the "suede" being used is 'splits'--leather where the top grain has been split off and used in better quality shoes, thus removing as much as 50% or more of the intrinsic tensile strength.
All that said, I did say it "can be" delicate. Some suede is actually a full grain calf that is simply turned inside out. While this retains most or all of the tensile strength of that particular leather, it doesn't eliminate the inherent problems of exposing the flesh side to rain and grit. All of which is compounded by the fact that almost any conditioner that one might apply to a grain-side calf will ruin the look of the "suede."
On the other hand, it's all relative, isn't it? I mean even the worst suede is probably stronger than paper.
Wow - what an unbelievable wealth of knowledge. Can't tell you how much I appreciate everyone's input. Thanks for the help. I think I've decided on the Windsor in Vintage Chestnut. If Tony can find a last, that is. I have huge feet (UK12.5), and he seemed uncertain about if they had an existing last that would work. Cross my fingers, I guess. Thanks again guys.
I've had an order in for about four months for a pair in 12.5G, so I sure hope they have something that will work.
this is true. I've handled many 60+ pairs of shoes where the regular calf was dried and cracking, while the suede was still going strong.
DWF had a good point about suede & dirt, though.
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