Fuzzy cashmere

[spectre]

Perhaps someone can help me with this. I have about seven pure cashmere jackets, four navy in various weights. Two are smooth Loro Piana but one I had MTM by Corneliani is midweight of a cloth - Columbo from memory - which is sort of fuzzy (no pilling) when you look closely at it.
Does this mean it's inferior in some way? The coat is incredibly comfortable as it's so pliable.

Thanks

 

[TheFoo]

If you cut them up into squares and hand-roll the edges, they'd make ideal pocket squares for me

.

 

[spectre]

Thanks. Not exactly the reply I was hoping for.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by spectre

Thanks. Not exactly the reply I was hoping for.

How bad is the fuzz? It seems that a little buzz would just add character.

 

[spectre]

It's not at all bad really and has been with the jacket since new. I guess I'm the only one who's conscious of it. Just wondering if it means the cloth is not so great, although it feels marvellous to the touch.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by spectre

It's not at all bad really and has been with the jacket since new. I guess I'm the only one who's conscious of it. Just wondering if it means the cloth is not so great, although it feels marvellous to the touch.

I'm no expert, but it seems to me you have nothing to worry about. If it was poor quality, and it was always fuzzy, it would have pilled by now, no?

 

[spectre]

No pilling. You're making me feel better already!

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by spectre

No pilling. You're making me feel better already!

Well, I think you should. Pilling is caused by short fibers, right? So if you have a fuzzy cashmere and no pilling, it implies to me that the fibers are long, the fuzz is purposeful, and the fabric is well made.

 

[eHaberdasher]

close-up photos would help!

 

[Sator]

The Italians in particular are notorious for weaving their expensive fibres (cashmere and super wools) on looser weave settings to give it a soft, and spongy ('luxurious') feeling. That is probably the main reason for the hand of the cloth. It is almost certainly carded cashmere rather than worsted. In due course, the cloth may start to pill or else the coat may lose shape.

Quality English or Scottish cashmere is tightly woven and feels as solid as a rock. The ability to gain control over the cloth quality alone is sufficient reason to go bespoke.

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Well, I think you should. Pilling is caused by short fibers, right? So if you have a fuzzy cashmere and no pilling, it implies to me that the fibers are long, the fuzz is purposeful, and the fabric is well made.

Yes, it could be deliberately finished to have a rough surface. However, you cannot tell the fibre length from the description given. Worsted cashmere needs long fibres so they can be spun and tends to result in a smoother cloth. Only really bad carded cashmere uses the short, nasty scraps of waste to make cloth that pills like crazy. Even if a cashmere had medium length fibres in them, if the cloth is light, carded and woven on loose settings, it will eventually pill or lose shape.

 

[spectre]

Thanks. I actually chose all the fabrics for my MTM Cornelianis from their swatch books, it just didn't seem this loose (I guess is the word) when I picked it. The others are all very tightly woven, whether winter or summer weight.

 

[theoldadage]

I have a bespoke sportcoat in a worsted cashmere by Scabal, and while it isn't as tightly woven as some, it hasnt piled at all yet. The fuzziness gives it character and, if you are concerned, a hint for those in the know. I would from experience be more concerned about putting it by anything that might pull the fabric, zippers, dresses with things embroidered on (though hopefully worn by someone else)