fusing question...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by discostu004, Nov 16, 2004.

  1. discostu004

    discostu004 Affiliate vendor

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    over on axe andy someone posted a thread about someone New Delhi making suits and jackets really cheap. on a whim i emailed thinking that i wouldn't hear back but they replied. was thinking of having something wild made, but i posed the question on canvassing and here was the response:

    Dear Mr.Discostu004,

    By "fully canvassed", do you mean non-fused, hand basted canvass lining
    or
    do you mean fully lined? We can make non-fused sport coats since the
    fabrics
    are thicker for sport coats. However, for the lightweight suit fabrics
    we
    find that the non-fused method doesn't produce a very neat appearance
    in the
    final product. It also costs more ($90 for fused tailoring and $135 for
    non-fused tailoring). I'll scan some samples and send them to you soon.

    Regards,

    Sachin Vaish


    which is the best of the options given?
     


  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    This is an odd response. I'm not sure what he means. If I had to guess, I would say that they use a very rough or heavy or thick (or all of the above) canvas on their hand-canvassed suits. This would indeed make a lightweight fabric look stiff and possibly "lumpy."

    However, the remedy -- use lighter canvas -- is so obvious that I can't imagine this is what they mean. Unless, like some tailors, they simply don't like padstitching lightweight cloth, which is admittedly a pain in the a$$. But, come on, these guys are in Delhi, they ought to have extensive experience working with lightweight cloth.
     


  3. Giona Granata

    Giona Granata Senior member

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    Why "non-fused method doesn't produce a very neat appearance in the final product" ? Ironing; the final touch of a tailor, especially in a fully canvassed coat, and a hard part to do, also you need a special heavy iron.
     


  4. regularjoe

    regularjoe Senior member

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    There were actually some threads on this a ways back (too lazy to search).

    Anyhoo, there was the opinion that for lightweight fabrics (8 oz or so), that fusing was actually better under some circumstances. I think it had to do with humidity and how the fabric responded to it where fusing would actually hold up better than a good ol' hand-stitched canvas.
     


  5. Giona Granata

    Giona Granata Senior member

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    Yes , some of the recent lightweight fabric ("tasmanian", super-super-super-something) are actually thought for indutrial construction of suits, that is iron press (and not hand-ironing) and fused canvass.
     


  6. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Very interesting. I wrote to Vaish but didn't get a response. Did you only ask about whether or not the suits were fully canvased?

    As I'm not going to New Delhi anytime soon I was hoping I could get Vaish to copy a jacket. $135 is a great price for that amount of work.
     


  7. discostu004

    discostu004 Affiliate vendor

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    i simply emailed him and said i was NOT going to be there, but could he make a jkt based on measurements and he replied he could, then said he would scan some swatches. i replied back something about canvassing and could i pick things like 1/4 lining, ticket pocket etc and that was the response i got. pretty quick response too
     


  8. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Very cool, discostu. I would be very interested in hearing how the experience goes, if you choose to have Vaish make something for you. I'm thinking maybe a two piece seersucker for next summer.
     


  9. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    Is it $135 plus fabric?
     


  10. discostu004

    discostu004 Affiliate vendor

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    i figure if it's cheap i could get something loud and garish with a goofy lining.
     


  11. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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  12. discostu004

    discostu004 Affiliate vendor

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  13. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    2.2 cents. or 1 USD = 45 rupees.
     


  14. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    That was going to be my next question, along with How much fabric am I going to need for a suit, or for an overcoat, in meters?
     


  15. discostu004

    discostu004 Affiliate vendor

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    what is this "super 150s blended with polyester"? is this a souped-up john travolta circa 1977 look?
     


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