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Fused vs canvas debate

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Rudder, Apr 29, 2004.

  1. texas_jack

    texas_jack Senior member

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    Hobart, IN
    Rudder hasn't posted in 3 years. I don't think he's coming back.


    Rudder,

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    If you are interested or would like to learn more please visit the site below to watch The Perfect Shirt Video.
    http://www.stuartwarner.ca/bespoke

    Stuart

    -------------------
    Stuart Warner Bespoke Shirts
    http://www.stuartwarner.ca
    416-512-8876
     
  2. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    Not just necroposting, but necroposting in the service of [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    holy shit. somebody revived a 2004 thread. that's some serious necroposting here.

    My thoughts exactly!

    Rudder hasn't posted in 3 years. I don't think he's coming back.
     
  3. tonylumpkin

    tonylumpkin Senior member

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    Not just necroposting, but necroposting in the service of [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Well, at least he worked for it.
     
  4. Krawczak

    Krawczak Well-Known Member

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    A good thread to be necromantized, though. It's interesting to watch the birth and development of stuff that's common knowledge now. And I'm sure there are some n00bs *coughcough* who can learn a lot from this thread.
     
  5. Sunscreenboy

    Sunscreenboy Well-Known Member

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    This thread has been very useful. Just a final clarification, the canvased middle should feel thin, almost the same thickness as the wool cloth and inner linen correct?

    If it feels too thick (most likely a chest piece which most suits have), then it's fused?

    Thanks!
     
  6. FidelCashflow

    FidelCashflow Senior member

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    This thread has been very useful. Just a final clarification, the canvased middle should feel thin, almost the same thickness as the wool cloth and inner linen correct?

    If it feels too thick (most likely a chest piece which most suits have), then it's fused?

    Thanks!


    On canvassed suits, the middle layer will be quite thick, probably thicker than the wool and lining. That's just the way canvas is, and it's not because it's fused.

    ---

    Back to the OP, I cared about having canvassed jackets for awhile after I learned the difference. I have 1 which has a nicer lapel roll, but I wouldn't pay extra for it again. Fused suits nowadays are pretty much the same durability and I don't expect to wear any suit for decades. Either it's going to go out of style, or it's not going to fit me after a few years (for example, look at the Jerry Seinfeld-esque lapels on sport coats from 1993 that look incredibly dated.)
     
  7. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    first of all, lets get this straight. there is no "floating" chest piece. it is anchored on three sides,both sides and the top. IT CANT FLOAT it just hangs there.
    got that off my chest. [pun intended]

    check the area a few inches above the bottom and where the lining is sewn to the facing. go 2 or 3" from the seam toward the back. at that point you should feel the wool of the front and the lining. if there is a third layer between then its canvased period.
    no need to say fully, it is canvased.

    if there is no third layer between ,then its either fused or half canvased.
    go up just a bit, close to the bottom of the outside pockets. if you feel the third layer, then its half canvased.
    if you cant find that third layer anywhere then its fused.

    keep in mind that all constructions have a chest piece of one kind or other. so that becomes a no test. also there are different inner lapel treatments so thats no test either.
     
  8. Sunscreenboy

    Sunscreenboy Well-Known Member

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    tailor thank you for your response.

    Feeling the suits (CK, Sakes Brand, Burberry) at off 5th, it seems that all of them has a third layer around the chest, though rather thick and sponge. I can pull apart the outside wool and the inner linen to distinguish the middle thicker material.

    Are those suits half canvased?
     
  9. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There's a thread here that shows the garment from the inside so you have a better idea of what you are feeling and explains the canvas, chest piece, etc.
     
  10. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    Honestly I don't know what the fuss is about. A good fitting fused suit will still look worlds better than a badly made "canvas" suit. And unless you're spilling something on yourself every lunch, chances are it won't fall apart early from cleaning.
     
  11. neyus

    neyus Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jun 28, 2006
    Location:
    Australia
    first of all, lets get this straight. there is no "floating" chest piece. it is anchored on three sides,both sides and the top. IT CANT FLOAT it just hangs there.
    got that off my chest. [pun intended]

    check the area a few inches above the bottom and where the lining is sewn to the facing. go 2 or 3" from the seam toward the back. at that point you should feel the wool of the front and the lining. if there is a third layer between then its canvased period.
    no need to say fully, it is canvased.

    if there is no third layer between ,then its either fused or half canvased.
    go up just a bit, close to the bottom of the outside pockets. if you feel the third layer, then its half canvased.
    if you cant find that third layer anywhere then its fused.

    keep in mind that all constructions have a chest piece of one kind or other. so that becomes a no test. also there are different inner lapel treatments so thats no test either.


    Tailor has spelt out the definitive test above. You wont get far just feeling the chest, you will need to look further down as tailor has mentioned.
     

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