• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 8: Cuir de Russie card case from Equus Leather

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 8th auction is for a Cuir de Russie card case from Equus Leather. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Functional difference between pleated shirt sleeves and shirred/gathered into cuff

josepidal

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
1,959
Reaction score
2
Sorry, let me try again.

On a dress shirt sleeve, is there any functional difference between your usual sleeve with two pleats tucked into the cuff and the shirring or gathering or the use of many tiny pleats to fold the sleeve into the cuff? The latter is the "signature shirring" on Brooks Brothers and Turnbull & Asser shirts.

The way I understand it, there is no difference in terms of fit. However, the change in pleat style means the way the sleeve fabric falls around the cuff is different. The usual pleats are more structured and the shirring makes the fabric fall more evenly. The latter looks less formal to some, more feminine to others, and trad to still others.

I think Kabbaz also said the shirring around the cuff is easier to tailor than the pleats.

Sorry for bringing up the shoulders and memories of a clusterf*ck about pattern matching.
 

j

(stands for Jerk)
Admin
Spamminator Moderator
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Messages
14,914
Reaction score
98
I prefer the pleats because they lay flatter and slimmer and thus don't have as much of a chance to bunch up and catch at the jacket cuff. The puffiness of the shirred type makes it that much more likely that the cuff will get stuck outside the jacket after a long reach, which I find annoying.
 

kolecho

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2004
Messages
3,523
Reaction score
486
I like pleats on my oxford BDs and T&A style shirring on my poplins (BDs and dress colllars). It is all very personal IMO. You should try both out to see what you prefer.
 

josepidal

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
1,959
Reaction score
2
Kolecho: That's interesting. Why exactly?

Yeah, I'd love to try it and see what I like. What I'm wondering is how to get the pleats without increasing the circumference of the wrist. A tailor may make the mistake of thinking you want to see pronounced pleats instead of understanding that you just want it to look and drape differently. Thus, he may make the wrist fuller and you will need a cutlass and tricorner hat.

How many small pleats do you have done?
 

kolecho

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2004
Messages
3,523
Reaction score
486
Originally Posted by josepidal
Kolecho: That's interesting. Why exactly?

Yeah, I'd love to try it and see what I like. What I'm wondering is how to get the pleats without increasing the circumference of the wrist. A tailor may make the mistake of thinking you want to see pronounced pleats instead of understanding that you just want it to look and drape differently. Thus, he may make the wrist fuller and you will need a cutlass and tricorner hat.

How many small pleats do you have done?


If you have a lousy shirtmaker, you will confuse them with all your verbose instructions.
 

josepidal

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
1,959
Reaction score
2
True, but I just realized terminology is somethimes different from tailor to tailor.

I ask about how many small pleats or gathers as I have no baseline to evaluate whether my guy does them well.
 

kolecho

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2004
Messages
3,523
Reaction score
486
It is quite random, unlike pleated cuffs. One is not supposed to count the number of small pleats in a shirred cuff. Best you get a sample to show them what you want.
 

josepidal

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
1,959
Reaction score
2
I tried to find a good Mafoofan photo to e-mail.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How many pairs of shoes do you own?

  • 1 - 4

    Votes: 30 3.6%
  • 5 - 10

    Votes: 143 17.2%
  • 11 - 20

    Votes: 273 32.9%
  • 21 - 30

    Votes: 130 15.7%
  • 31 - 40

    Votes: 71 8.6%
  • 41 - 50

    Votes: 49 5.9%
  • 51 - 60

    Votes: 25 3.0%
  • 61 - 70

    Votes: 22 2.7%
  • 71 - 80

    Votes: 17 2.1%
  • 81 - 90

    Votes: 7 0.8%
  • 91 - 100

    Votes: 9 1.1%
  • 100+

    Votes: 53 6.4%

Related Threads

Staff online

Forum statistics

Threads
429,131
Messages
9,229,601
Members
193,744
Latest member
GlenFrazier
Top