Fully canvas, lapel rolls and vents

[sanmateo]

Alex --

I think it was on AA. You gave a breakdown of what kind of canvas construction they used and how long it took to make. A I'd give a link, but they're fisked as usual.

Maybe I'll succeed later.

 

[Manton]

I am 30. Â Is that too young for a vest? Â I like the conservative, tight appearance it gives a suit. Â Why would people not like that? Â I think it looks clean and professional, it seems more disciplined and formal than without. Â I often wonder if it is appropriate for business however.

There is no "too young" for a vest. Â Okay, maybe 12. The problem is that some people get offended when they think young people are dressing "above their station" or age. Â This is a huge problem in certain industries. Â A lot of people I know are in I-banking, both in New York and on the West Coast. Â Some of these are pretty testosterone heavy guys. Â Frat-huns, rubgy players, weight lifters, guys who like to fight and who know how. Â Not ones to shrink from much of anything. Â Yet they were horrified of violating the Wall Street dress code. Â They would see me after work or what not in my 3-piece suit, suede shoes, pocket hank, etc. and profess admiration. Â And I would say, "Hey, man, you make 3, 4, 5 times more money than I do. Â I can take you where you need to go to get rigged out." Â And they would say, "No, I can't, won't work," or whatever. Â Only once did one of them, late at night after a lot of booze, break down and explain it all to me. Â I'll bet we have I-bankers on the forum who can confirm or dispute what I say. Â Having never been in the industry, I can't judge the truth of it for myself. Â I just pass along what I have heard. Anyway, this problem is only a problem insofar as it's a problem. Â Which is a snarky way of saying, if no one cares, you'll be fine. Â I have always dressed like a bit of a dandy, ever since I went out into the wide world, and so far as I know it's never caused me a problem. Â I suppose it could have caused me problems I don't know about, but then I'll never know, so who cares.

I wish we had good bespoke tailors here in Seattle.

These guys are worth at least checking out: http://www.giandecaro.com/ I have not used them or even seen their work, but I've heard good things.

 

[linux_pro]

Hmmm, thanks for the feedback, guys.

I'll check out both. I haven't seen any suits by WW Chan, so I have no idea what they look like, etc. I have read many posts by people on this board who swear by him. Manton, do you do bespoke tailoring? You are a Saville Row tailor right? I am travelling to London, I believe, sometime next fall on our way to Poland and the Ukraine. I'm gonna head down to SR and check it out.

I'm not very important with what I do, I think everyone I work with expects me to be nerdy anyway, that's what I am. A serious geek. I just don't want to get too out there, and lately I've been wanting to be more like Cary Grant, if you will, just have a classier sort of style. I used to fight a lot when I was in my early 20's, and I still have that feisty temperament you described and can be a little overly cocky, but I'm trying to cool that off now, and am trying to dress more traditionally, or at least, more in line with what is appropriate.

 

[linux_pro]

Manton, one other thing... (sorry to harass ya), you said that tie did not need a Prince Albert knot. Does that have to do with the style or color of the tie or something?

 

[Manton]

Manton, do you do bespoke tailoring?  You are a Saville Row tailor right?

Oh, Lord no.  I can sew on a button, and that's about it.

 

[Manton]

Manton, one other thing... (sorry to harass ya), you said that tie did not need a Prince Albert knot.  Does that have to do with the style or color of the tie or something?

Size. That tie looks like pretty thick silk, with a heavy lining. Prince Albery knots are usually used to make thinnish ties tie bigger knots, so that they look more normal.

 

[linux_pro]

Oh, okay. I like my knots really wide and thick. To me, it just looks very swank and cool in a 70's sort of way. That is probably not the right mindset to have when dressing for work, however.

 

[matadorpoeta]

More than that, it is required.

manton, that was a joke, right?

mr. kabbaz, that thread is on this forum, somewhere. i saw it a couple of months ago when i was looking for something else. i recall it said something about kiton's chest peices being machine, cut, or sewn, or something like that.

 

[Manton]

manton, that was a joke, right?

No. From the notorious "black suit" thread:

"Take, for instance, the sixth or bottom button on an SB vest. There is a 'usage' rule that it should be left unbuttoned. At the upper end of tailoring (Savile Row, the top NY tailors) there is a 'makers' rule that SB vests should be cut so that the sixth button is impossible to button. Where did these rules originate? Well, unlike the sleeve button rule, there is a fanciful story to go with this one. 'Bertie' the prince of Wales (later Edward VII) was out at his hunting lodge with a bunch of (male) buddies. After a particularly indulgent meal, he leaned back in his chair and unbuttoned the bottom button on his vest to give the expanded Royal Girth a little breathing room. This presented his buddies with a difficult choice. They could: 1) Call the prince on this faux-pas; 2) ignore it; 3) follow suit. #1 was obviously unthinkable. #2 might be interpreted as contradicting the prince, which is frowned upon. So they went with #3, and a 'rule' was born."

 

[matadorpoeta]

manton, i was aware of that story, or at least a similar one involving royalty, but 'required' is a strong word. nothing in life is required. the fact that bertie's buddies were a pack of yes-men doesn't mean that hundreds of years later everyone should continue to follow that example.

if the vest is cut to make the bottom button unusable, then you don't have a choice. if the bottom button is usable, you have a choice.

i understand there are rules, customs, etc... but it is not required to follow them.

 

[Alexander Kabbaz]

Thanks sanmateo and matadorpoeta. I was looking on AAAC after I failed here ... but I fell asleep waiting for the page to load. Figured I try again after midnight. Works pretty well until about 3am when Alias wakes up and begins hogging the bandwidth.
Free dozen of collar stays to anyone who locates it.?.

Oops - which just made me remember: SJ was I supposed to send you collar stays?

 

[Manton]

I understand there are rules, customs, etc... but it is not required to follow them.

My God, man. Have you missed this thread? http://66.170.193.77/cgi-bin....09;st=0 To summarize: it is "required" according to the "rules". It is not required for staying out of jail, gaining entry into heaven, or maintaining good character.

 

[Alexander Kabbaz]

Aha. manton

My God, man. Have you missed this thread?

Wasn't there some pithy little reference over there (somewhere between pages 10 and 40) to faith ... and your denial of any religious connection thereto? In whom is that there, above here, in the paragraph just prior to this paragraph, you are seeking solace?

 

[matadorpoeta]

i didn't read that thread, just saw the end. i think you misunderstand me. what i'm saying is that when a guy asks aquestion like that, i think the best answer is "the rule is this ( ), but do whatever you want."

i do think you gave a good response by mentioning the rule though.

 

[Alexander Kabbaz]

psst ... Matadorpoeta. Go read the thread. Otherwise manton's blood pressure may be in jeopardy.
Alex