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Full Review - Richard Lim Tailor – PLUS - Finished Navy Summer Jacket Pics

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by coolal, May 12, 2011.

  1. coolal

    coolal Senior member

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    Hey guys, here's a few pics from my basted fitting today. The cloth is an English super 120 pindot (midnight blue with navy pin dots). Not sure of the actual mill; the cloth was purchased from International Silk and Woolens in Los Angeles.

    -The jacket is a peak lapel, 2 button, with side vents. Also experimenting with extra high arm holes (reason why one sleeve is off; had to check spacing and adjust upwards) and spalla camicia. I know the shirt shoulder is a bit out of place on a 3 piece, but I'll never know until I try it.

    -The pants are my first full rise (buttoning over the navel counts as full rise, right?). They are based off my previous order, so a trial pair wasn't required; just some adjustments to the pants pictured.

    -The vest is a 5 button (I'll try 6 next time).

    Front with jacket:

    [​IMG]

    Back with jacket:

    [​IMG]

    Vest Front:

    [​IMG]

    Vest Back:

    [​IMG]

    I'll be sure to post pics from the next fitting.
     
  2. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Many thanks for posting - looks like another interesting project.
     
  3. coolal

    coolal Senior member

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    My pleasure! These experiments are a lot of fun. I'm young enough (and live in a city) where I can probably pull off the "mistakes". Although, the potential for serendipitous mistakes is half the draw.

    I figure by 30 I should have my stylistic choices fully tried and tested.
     
  4. PsylentStorm

    PsylentStorm Active Member

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    Coolal,

    I'm very interested in checking out Richard Lim. mostly because of your excellent reviews of his. How long would you say it takes on average to have a suit completed, from your first initial fitting until you receive the finished suit? FWIW, this would be my first custom suit.
     
  5. YoungAmerican

    YoungAmerican Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The stuff High Society has made for me has had an impressively fast turnaround. About two weeks to the basted fitting, another week or two to the final fitting / completion. The first time, I needed some adjustments to sleeve length at the final fitting and that took another few days.
     
  6. coolal

    coolal Senior member

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    My experience mirrors YoungAmerican's. It's usually two weeks to the basted fitting +/- 3 days. Then another week or two to the final fitting. The suit is "finished" at this point, but they'll gladly address any adjustments. Just make sure you address EVERYTHING in the basted fitting. In particular the buttoning point and the gorge height.

    So, in short, if you ordered at the beginning of the month, it's realistic to expect finishing the process by the first week of the next month.

    BTW, I know that Richard does rush jobs at a surcharge and 24 hour rush jobs for an even larger surcharge for established clients FYI.
     
  7. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

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    Not a big fan of those notches and the shoulders could be smoother and straighter (not a fan of the speed bump shape), but for the price point it's pretty good.
    The tailor's pants look pretty bad.
     
  8. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    I think this has been said before here; the basted stage is really for the tailor, less so for the client, let alone for SF to comment on. Also, your jacket comments are all subjective; pants seem indeed to need some attending to though.
     
  9. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

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    I didn't read all four pages... and what does the notch style have to do with the basted fitting? He said he chose that style.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2012
  10. coolal

    coolal Senior member

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    Thanks for the observations. The lapel is actually an open peak (I drafted the cardboard shaper and gave it to them) but we're still working on the gorge height. The shoulder is purely subjective though, seeing as that's my natural shoulder line. To get a straighter shoulder would simply mean much more padding to compensate for the natural "speed bump" shape. IMO that's more towards the Huntsman military look.

    As for the pants, I've been running 3 times a week and toning on the others, with fluctuating muscle and fat mass. Some areas pull in ways they didn't before. I'm confident the end result will be fine, considering my last trouser order: http://www.styleforum.net/t/225341/new-bespoke-trousers-from-richard-lim-los-angeles
     
  11. PsylentStorm

    PsylentStorm Active Member

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    Thanks for the reply!

    I'm really new to the forums, and even more new to the idea of custom made suits. Are there any resources you recommend in finding a rough idea about which of the more intricate details of suits would be best suited for my body? For example, I pretty much know the larger details: lapel type, fit, vents, pockets, etc... the typical details MTM outlets ask for. The details I haven't fully thought out would be exactly the things you mentioned - buttoning point, arm hole height, lapel size, gorge height, etc. I know a lot of that is largely up to preference, but is there material anyone recommends on where I can get a rough idea? From what I've read, his suits are best made if I have a good idea of what I want.

    I plan on getting measured and "putting in the order" with Richard this weekend. I'd like to be as well prepared as I possibly can. Richard was very nice, understanding, and accommodating, I'd like ti do my best to reciprocate.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2012
  12. coolal

    coolal Senior member

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    The easiest way to get a full appreciation of what gorge height and button stance does to the look of a suit, is to just browse era by era. If you ever studied art history, you'll see similar trends in terms of movements and the countermovements that followed. Almost every decade from the late 19th century to present has a definitive look; and they are usually a reaction to the previous standards. These are easily characterized by looking at jacket length, lapel width, gorge height, button stance, darting, and shoulder / sleeve head treatments. Also be aware of Euro v US movements.

    Here's the hard part. There are two primary schools of thought when you start researching what looks are "best" or "most appropriate". First, there's the iGent standard. StyleForum has a pretty accepted and somewhat rigid interpretation of what looks best and how things ought to be done. The second, is "fashion". Designers and their marketing teams work very hard to reinvent and market trends that are fashionable. These rarely, if ever, overlap with iGent standards.

    The third perspective thrown into the mix, and the most important, is your own perception of "style". If you can make something, that's well fitted, work (whatever look, whatever era) and you feel great doing it; then that's your style. People are used to being marketed to. A man, dressed well in his own way and exuding confidence will typically convince others that he's doing something right.

    Lastly, the larger details are what matter most when placing the order. The smaller details are what matter during the basted fitting. You can experiment with different buttoning stances during the fitting, and the gorge height is easy to tweak at that point as well (though not something that shows immediately like a button stance adjustment).

    There's a reason a lot of us take pictures during the basted fitting. You'll probably be very excited during your first basted fitting (or even others after that) and it's easy to gloss over a talking point you meant to bring up. This may result in something that isn't quite right, and it'll probably show in the photos taken during the fitting.

    This is where the iGent, fashion, and style perspectives collide. When you post the photo, you have to balance all three (based on how much they matter to you). I personally like to play at the very fringes of iGent territory while still appealing to most of the "rules". You'll have to decide what's best for you.

    BTW, I enjoyed these threads on button stance. It might help you with characterizing the effects of button stance adjustments: http://www.styleforum.net/t/207990/the-button-stance-thread & http://www.styleforum.net/t/223582/high-vs-low-button-stance
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  13. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've been using High Society for alterations now for a few months and they've been very pleasant to deal with. I would also note that, aside from Mr. Lim, I've dealt with 2 other people in the shop (a man and a woman) and both seemed skilled and capable. That's a change from the other tailors I've used, where there's really only one person capable of working the front of the house. I'm not sure if I'll try their bespoke or not. I may have them make me a shirt.
     
  14. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    What notch? The peak lapel in process?
     
  15. PsylentStorm

    PsylentStorm Active Member

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    Coolal, thanks for the reply!

    I'm going to get measured and place my order tomorrow. It's good to know that I only need the larger details initially. Since it'll be my first bespoke suit, I'm pretty excited for even this first step. I'll try to post my experience as well (from a newbie standpoint, of course).

    I have a general idea of what style best suits me. Despite that, I'm sure there are lots of details I'm going to have to call on the fly or base it on what I'm more confident/comfortable with when trying it at the basted fitting. Although I know what I like, I'm always open to what's perceived as what looks "best". In those discussions, I see lots of good points that I fail to think of, which I guess is why I'm asking about where I can find more info. I really appreciated those couple of links about button stance... it really catered to what I was looking for.

    As a follow up question, I noticed you mentioned an iGent standard. Being new here, I thought that here on SF iGent is more of a joke?
     
  16. coolal

    coolal Senior member

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    Take plenty of pictures during every step! It'll be fantastic to see how Richard's work looks on other customers. Plus I won't be the only one posting his work to SF! :D Keep us posted.
     
  17. applky

    applky Senior member

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    That, and a fact of life.
     
  18. coolal

    coolal Senior member

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    Just picked up my three piece suit from Richard today. Shoulders are essentially unpadded with a spalla camicia.

    Here are some teaser pics. Forgive the crappy cell phone quality. I wasn't able to setup my camera and lights today.

    I'll upload proper pics of how it fits and other details once I get everything setup this weekend.

    Needless to say, I'm thrilled with the results!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2012
  19. coolal

    coolal Senior member

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    One interesting detail I just discovered: shirt buttons behind the jacket fastening button. Perhaps this was their reaction to the fact that I've been pulling out my fastening buttons recently (on a few jackets). Has anyone else had this done on their jackets? My other guess is that it's there to distribute force so that the fastening button doesn't pull out and create a hole?

    [​IMG]
     
  20. sartbaeklv

    sartbaeklv Senior member

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    Where's your boutonnière hole? Or did you specifically request to have your lapels like that.
     

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