Full Review - Richard Lim Tailor – PLUS - Finished Navy Summer Jacket Pics

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by coolal, May 12, 2011.

  1. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    What is the word on triple reverse pleats? I didn't notice this till you pointed it out.

    To me, it screams Le Château steez circa late 80s - early 90s.
     


  2. Icehawk

    Icehawk Senior member

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    I really like the jacket, including lapels & blunted corners. To me that is what shows (aside from fit) that it is bespoke. If I had to make a negative comment it would be to have a different buttonhole style and tighter armoholes.
     


  3. coolal

    coolal Senior member

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    To me, it screams Le Château steez circa late 80s - early 90s.

    Haha, okay, that's what I figured but I didn't want to pan it lest you loved it ;-)

    I really like the jacket, including lapels & blunted corners. To me that is what shows (aside from fit) that it is bespoke. If I had to make a negative comment it would be to have a different buttonhole style and tighter armoholes.

    Thanks again for the comments, I'm really glad you enjoyed my stylistic choices. Overall my number one goal has been to evangelize Richard Lim with the most neutral praise possible. However, the fact that you appreciate the details I specified, is a cherry on top!
     


  4. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks for spending the time doing this write-up. Since you first posted about this I found out a friend of mine (not an iGent) had a suit made by Lim and another friend of his, a lesbian woman with a fondness for men's suits, has had several commissions made there. Both are big fans of his work, but neither are people whose opinion I'd trust on tailors. I'm tempted to give him a try at this point, especially considering the price. I suspect that I'll end up with a wearable workhorse suit at the very least.
     


  5. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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    Great review and an excellent suit -- especially at those prices. It fits you very well and looks great. Thanks for the writeup and thanks for sharing the photos.
     


  6. softy

    softy Senior member

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    What is the word on triple reverse pleats? I didn't notice this till you pointed it out.
    *
    Very interesting that you think it's a conservative look. Thanks for the compliment!
    *
    Thanks for the props. I figure not everyone would like the lapel, but that's what makes it unique [​IMG]


    I agree, I found it to look "conservative" (in the nicest way) as well. Maybe because you didn't go too aggressively on the cut. This is possibly also why I find the lapels to be unusual... they seem out of keeping with the rest of the look. That and, they have a strangely biomorphic look about them.

    As for the pleats, when I saw the first image of him working with the pattern, I thought "Hmm, he looks sharp, working in a tie and all," but I was somewhat surprised to see the quintuple reverse pleats and the hems nearly grazing the ground. I suppose what his customers want is not necessarily what he wants. [​IMG]

    Good review.
     


  7. greger

    greger Senior member

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    It looks really nice. The flaps are a little small looking. Notch is well done. Which reminds me, the first person to post seemed to post like the herd mentality. If he moos to much maybe he'll end up on a dinner plate. The breast pocket is nice with the rounded corner. The color looks great to. The fit is not perfect, not that anybodies is, but for the price it is really nice. The notch is kind of a birds mouth. I like the rounded corners. Not sure I have seen them for about 50 years. Back in the days when you could see all kinds of cool stuff. So many of the people on these forums are afraid to doing anything other than the boring same. It is a cool coat. Thanks for showing.
     


  8. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    Great stuff Coolal! The Brisa came out spectacularly.

    I have the same cloth being made up by a special friend in Napoli. Can't wait to get it.
     


  9. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    Richard Lim himself looks wild!
     


  10. coolal

    coolal Senior member

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    Thanks for spending the time doing this write-up. Since you first posted about this I found out a friend of mine (not an iGent) had a suit made by Lim and another friend of his, a lesbian woman with a fondness for men's suits, has had several commissions made there. Both are big fans of his work, but neither are people whose opinion I'd trust on tailors. I'm tempted to give him a try at this point, especially considering the price. I suspect that I'll end up with a wearable workhorse suit at the very least.

    Thanks for your comments Baron. Very interesting that you're finding more and more people who are Lim customers. He really does fly under the radar for some reason.

    Great review and an excellent suit -- especially at those prices. It fits you very well and looks great. Thanks for the writeup and thanks for sharing the photos.

    Thanks again! The price is the real kicker. I'm sure if someone tried, they could find a list of ways to "improve" the jacket, but I really couldn't be happier.

    I agree, I found it to look "conservative" (in the nicest way) as well. Maybe because you didn't go too aggressively on the cut. This is possibly also why I find the lapels to be unusual... they seem out of keeping with the rest of the look. That and, they have a strangely biomorphic look about them.

    As for the pleats, when I saw the first image of him working with the pattern, I thought "Hmm, he looks sharp, working in a tie and all," but I was somewhat surprised to see the quintuple reverse pleats and the hems nearly grazing the ground. I suppose what his customers want is not necessarily what he wants. [​IMG]

    Good review.


    Very interesting that you should bring up biomorphics! I'd say that a lot of my influences for details on this jacket come from the same motivations as the biomorphic movement. I really don't like hard corners and lines. In general I always lean more towards organic shapes with a preference for circles. This jacket was certainly an experiment in minimizing all 90* corners.

    As for the pleats, I too noticed what I thought were quad(!) pleats, BUT I'm pretty sure the fourth one is his pocket. I remember reading a thread months back that talked about tailor's attire. I've learned not to care about their style, as long as they can execute mine :)

    It looks really nice. The flaps are a little small looking. Notch is well done. Which reminds me, the first person to post seemed to post like the herd mentality. If he moos to much maybe he'll end up on a dinner plate. The breast pocket is nice with the rounded corner. The color looks great to. The fit is not perfect, not that anybodies is, but for the price it is really nice. The notch is kind of a birds mouth. I like the rounded corners. Not sure I have seen them for about 50 years. Back in the days when you could see all kinds of cool stuff. So many of the people on these forums are afraid to doing anything other than the boring same. It is a cool coat. Thanks for showing.

    Thanks again for your comments. I think you're keying into the essence of my experimental mindset. At the end of the day, it's just another jacket, but if the stylistic elements work, I'll have yet another way of differentiating myself from the herd. However, like all experiments, some things will work and some things won't. I'm glad you appreciate the coat, it's a fun starting point for further projects.

    Great stuff Coolal! The Brisa came out spectacularly.

    I have the same cloth being made up by a special friend in Napoli. Can't wait to get it.


    The Brisa really is amazing. It's very hard to explain how the 13oz feels because the hand and drape is quite interesting. The weave is just loose enough to drape over a hand gently and let air pass through, yet still stout enough to create a robust garment.

    Color me impressed.
     


  11. pitboss12

    pitboss12 Senior member

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    Just when I thought the quality of posts on SF was in a nosedive, I read this thread. Thanks to the OP for posting the review and helping keep SF interesting.
     


  12. Omar1223

    Omar1223 Senior member

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    jacket looks great. thanks for sharing!

    the shirt is really nice too. do you mind where its from?
     


  13. badsha

    badsha Senior member

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    If i know coolal then its a Freddy V. production.
     


  14. w.o.e.is.me.

    w.o.e.is.me. Senior member

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  15. coolal

    coolal Senior member

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    Just when I thought the quality of posts on SF was in a nosedive, I read this thread. Thanks to the OP for posting the review and helping keep SF interesting.
    Glad I could do my part :-D Thanks for the complement!
    jacket looks great. thanks for sharing! the shirt is really nice too. do you mind where its from?
    If i know coolal then its a Freddy V. production.
    Dead on badsha, it's a Freddy Vandecasteele shirt. I love it.
    really good review.
    Thanks again, I'm glad you guys appreciate the work that went into it.
     


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