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Full-canvas suits:  looks or longevity?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johnnynorman3, Mar 6, 2004.

  1. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

    Mar 3, 2004
    I'm reasonably young 25 years old, and while I have a good job and have some money to spend on suits, I don't want to be blowing huge wads of cash when my style and body could change in a relatively short period of time (I'm getting back into weightlifting after a relatively stressful year of work where I didn't have much free time and lost a bit of weight in my upper body). Moreover, I'm not sure how long I'm going to work in a place/industry requiring suits on a daily basis.

    So, my question is this: Does a full-canvas suit (read: totally non-fused) add to the looks of a suit or its longevity. If its adds to both, how much to each category? I ask this because people on this board always say that you can tell a fused from a non-fused suit by feeling it -- nobody ever says you can tell from the look of it. It seems to me that if you get other good construction details -- nice seems, good 120s or higher wool, nice shape to the cut, nice snug collar, rolled lapels, good armholes, etc. -- the only added benefit to a full-canvas suit is its longevity. This being the case, if you only see you needing a closet full of suits for two years or so, isn't going with fused the best option for the money (for example, even if you want to bypass Sake/NM outlets, Filenes Basement, etc. you can get a Nautica super 130s suit for like 200 bucks.).

  2. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

    Jan 6, 2004
    RVA - NYC
    Unless you are a mannequin, you can tell by appearences as well. A no-glue suit/coat will always look, travel, drape better than a glued one. As far as the other details you describe, they will naturally be found on a better suit, not a fused one anyway. It is always better, IMO, to buy the best you can afford in small increments, rather than more of something that is cheaper.
  3. Carlo

    Carlo Senior member

    Aug 22, 2003
    Concur with Rider.

    BUT... given that you are a young whelp who is wet behind the ears and has yet to experience the mortgage and child-rearing induced gluteal spread of us old farts your point about changing in size is well made. Get a suit that fits you as you are - if you take off a few inches in the waist it is not a big deal to let trousers in/out.

    Given where you are in life right now my advice on suits would be to shop very carefully, buy quality and build up your wardrobe over time. Suits are the T-bills of your wardrobe portfolio. Shirts, ties, trousers, sportcoats - you can view those as short term investments that are expendable. Suits are special - ya don't need 100 suits, you need 5 great ones, 10 if you wear them daily.

    When I buy a suit or have one made I do NOTHING unusual and go with very classic lines - I have a couple suits that are almost your age that you would not be able to tell from the 3 month old one next to it in my closet - those were good buys and will look fine in another 10 years if properly cared for.
  4. FCS

    FCS Senior member

    Nov 1, 2003
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
    Don't mean to be a smartass but the longest T-bills are 1- year in duration and the vast majority are 90-day. I'm sure you meant something that would last for years if not decades.
    I presume this comes largely from the choice of superior fabrics and the canvassed construction, but are there any other major factors? I also looked at Arnys website and they mentioned "Through the year it (Arny's bespoke) will acquire a certain patina rather than wear". Could someone explain how you would support this assertion? http://www.arnys.fr/uk/grandesMesures.htm

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