Full Canvas Italian Midnight Navy Suit Recs

[westlachill]

Hey all, I'm new here and registered because I'm desperately searching for my grail suit and am trying to obtain it without breaking the bank.

It's essentially this one from Kiton (https://www.shopthefinest.com/products/kiton-midnight-navy-blue-suit <- they don't have my size, sadly) or the Madison by Brioni (https://www.brioni.com/us/shop-product/men/suits-jackets_cod49241079ba.html). I feel like both Kiton and Brioni retail are overpriced for this, but it's also impossibly hard to find full canvas navy suits that are quite this dark in a luxury fabric elsewhere.

Canali used to have one that was perfect at around $3K, though they seem to have discontinued it. I'm not opposed to MTM (bespoke shouldn't be necessary) if anyone has a good recommendation in LA or NYC.

I have a fairly wide budget. I'm just trying to be mindful about price-value because paying for overpriced products tends to eat away at me.

 

[norMD]

Spier and Mackay

Cavour

Berg and berg will probably release something soon. Or look at sartoria cararra at no man walks alone.

 

[bicycleradical]

Spier and Mackay


Berg and berg will probably release something soon. Or look at sartoria cararra at no man walks alone.

I have a navy full canvas from Spier and it is pretty nice. People who have higher quality pieces would be able to give better input on the differences in quality between that tier and higher end clothing though.

That being said, the navy neapolitan is definitely not a midnight blue.

 

[comrade]

The suits you post are not really equivalent other than both are blue.
The Kiton looks quite Neapolitan with natural shoulders while the
Brioni is narrow-lapeled "contempo" Not that it matters, but Shop
the finest carries some very old merchandise. New, but from seasons
past. I just checked a sport coat that I have been looking at going on
ten years. PM me for details. So they may be over priced relative to
other web vendors. That said, I have bought from them and am satisfied.

 

[corpseposeur]

When you say an "Italian" suit--do you mean a suit styled in different areas in Italy or like a retailer like the names you suggested? As a personally guideline, mass market RTW that costs $3K+ is crossing into bespoke prices and that doesn't make sense to me.

I've found the site Permanent Style to be a wealth of information on Italian tailoring, there are various styles depending on the region ex. Florence, Naples, Rome, Milan, all have great traditions.

My favorite Italian tailoring house is Liverano in Florence. I recently bought a RTW overcoat and while it wasn't a bespoke piece, it certainly feels like a bespoke piece in terms of quality.

If I was looking for a suit that was 100% worth the money I'd look at something like this Liverano midnight blue

If you're in New York, Sartoria Vestrucci is another Florentine tailoring style has an outpost at Stefano Bemer's store in Manhattan. They're a bit on the pricier side at $3K+ but from what I understand the quality of the RTW or MTO is superlative.

If you're into a more unstructured Neopolitan look Orazio Luciano has some beauties.

Orazio Luciano fresco suit

Rubinacci is another big name from Naples, but their style is not as much to my taste.

While I've only dealt with Liverano, I am sure with any of these tailoring houses will provide a good suit.

 

[kevinsvindland]

The best neapolitan RTW in my opinion is Cesare Attolini. Though on the pricy end, not as pricy as Kiton. Swing by their Madison Avenue store and have a look.

Orazio Luciano is also as mentioned above a good one. I particularly like the combination of Orazio Jacket and Ambrosi Trousers.

Ring Jacket is also nice, though not made in Osaka, their style is very similar to many neapolitans.
Available at The Armoury in NYC

I am certainly a bit biased, but as it was mentioned in the comments above, I will take the liberty to include a picture from our collection.
This one is the darkest navy in the Cavour lineup this season.

 

[breakaway01]

Buying tailored clothing is not like buying a TV or smartphone where you look mostly at factors intrinsic to the item (specifications). By far the most important factors about buying a suit are (1) does it fit you and (2) do you like the styling/does it flatter your build. These cannot be discerned without actually trying on the suit. Unless you actually have knowledge of how a given maker's suits actually fit you (bearing in mind that many RTW makers actually have different suit patterns, so not all Isaia/Corneliani/Canali/Caruso/etc suits fit the same for the same marked size), buying suits without having tried them on is literally playing the lottery.

If you have access to NYC/LA stores, I cannot stress enough how important it is for you to try suits on in person.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Another “ I want the best and with specific requirements but I want it on the cheap.”

 

[breakaway01]

Even if you end up going MTM/bespoke, knowing what looks good on you will greatly improve the likelihood that you’ll end up with something you like.

 

[corpseposeur]

Even if you end up going MTM/bespoke, knowing what looks good on you will greatly improve the likelihood that you’ll end up with something you like.

if you were to do this, check out eBay to experiment.

I placed an order for my first bespoke order in December 2019 and I went with a very soft dark 13oz. solid navy in a wool twill worsted from Huddersfield fine worsted.

While COVID has prevented any fittings I’m very confident with that conservative choice as I can wear it to any situation and it’s my idea of a grail suit.

If you’re still experimenting definitely try some MTM from the lower cost options like Spier and Mackaye or other RTW.