From The Annals Of AngloMania

[ZON_JR]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

At other times on the underground, one brings out the umbrella with the poison dart at the tip.


- B

Didn't that happen on a bridge?

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by ZON_JR

Didn't that happen on a bridge?

Are you presuming that it only happened once?


- B

 

[I. Gentantithesis]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Georgi_Markov

 

[comrade]

Originally Posted by pejsek

I've been thinking about this vague but illuminating concept since I saw a few pictures from the exhibition at the Met. And I've come to realize that it is perhaps one of the main animating principles behind my incorrigible scrounging, thrifting, and collecting.

Thrifting has generally been horrible lately here in San Francisco, but there are always things that slip through. Halloween can be a great time to thrift owing to some rather expansive definitions of costume. Favor smiled on me last week with a number of good finds. Long live AngloMania!

First up, an amazing Huntsman suit dated January 31, 1975:

The cut may best be described as a two-button roll one--it really is the trademark Huntsman one button cut with a sort of vestigial second button above fairly high on the chest. This may be a clearer picture of how it works.

Check out the back. I've never seen anything quite like this before. Not quite a western back, but certainly equestrian-inspired:

The back construction accounts for a lot of the shaping and skirting:

The pants are interesting as well:

Notice the lapped seams and the absence of back pockets:

A simple wool cavalry twill, the suit acquires its considerable flamboyance solely through cut and details:

The Huntsman label:

All in all, a satisfying way to spend ten dollars. Fits just about perfectly too, though finding a place to wear it may pose a few difficulties.

Another acquisition from the Halloween rack. This is a shawl-lapelled tartan jacket from Edward Sexton dated November 5, 1985. The lapels are really quite long:

This is another piece that's nice to look at but perhaps a bit harder to wear. It's cut much like a dinner jacket but the lapels are self-faced rather than with satin or grosgrain. Not really casual, but not really formal either:

A close-up of the cloth:

Finally, an older piece but it fits here. This is a tweed Huntsman jacket dated June 11, 1975. The seventies, it turns out, could be very good:

A three-button cut. Note how well the scarlet lining works with the tweed:

Here's the back:

And a close-up of the pocket:

Well, that should do for now. I may, however, make this an on-going project.

Shoulders on the tweed look very Un-Huntsman. Or is it the photo?

 

[texas_jack]

just wanted to bump this thread up mainly but I came across about 10 of these Macclesfield made ties yesterday. Sadly 6 had holes but I bought the ones that didn't. They are an interesting crepe type weave, kind of spongy.

 

[Metlin]

Originally Posted by texas_jack

just wanted to bump this thread up mainly but I came across about 10 of these Macclesfield made ties yesterday. Sadly 6 had holes but I bought the ones that didn't. They are an interesting crepe type weave, kind of spongy.

Those are nice. I'm surprised that you put them on the ground outside, where they could be damaged.

Either way, this thread is all kinds of win.

 

[gorgekko]

I miss these types of posts, back in the day when SF wasn't filled with people who think they're funny.

 

[518aata]

Somehow, I've missed this thread when it's been bumped periodically. What a stunning array of bespoke clothing! Thank you.

 

[Metlin]

Found this vintage Huntsman -- it ties a beautiful knot!

 

[dopey]



. . . Switching decades and several generations, this is the oldest jacket I own--a lovely large-pattern tweed from Meyer & Mortimer in 1936. I've even worn this a couple of times and felt no sense of costume. Note how the jacket is fashioned to button low on the bottom button. Nobody seems to do this anymore:

The curved patch breast pocket is beautiful, but so artfully done it almost disappears entirely:

Bellows pocket with button. Another (at this point) recherche touch:

The construction on this jacket is phenomenal. I really doubt anybody working today could match this:

The wonderful old label, wearing its years with dignity:

. . .

I am bumping this thread, because I never gave credit to the model I used for one of my fall coats, pictured below. Note the buttoned bellows pocket. The last pic shows the bellows construction in detail - a curved bellows was quite a feat and one of which my tailor was justly proud. (If you use the thumbnails, you can get to supersized photos.)

Like the model above, mine is also unlined, While, as Pesjek notes, the workmanship on the M&M coat is outstanding, I am not sure contemporary tailors necessarily suffer in comparison. BTW, for those who haven't seen this thread before, go back and read the whole thing. I only excerpted a fraction of what Pesjek posted, but all of it is fantastic.

 

[james_timothy]

It's a great thread, isn't it? All the images should be scrapped into someone's album for future generations.

 

[emptym]

Gorgeous coat, dopey. Thank you for posting the pics. Does yours also have that diagonal strip of lining fabric that looks like it's attached to the back flap of the side vents? I'm guessing it's for keeping the vents closed. I wonder if that's something fairly standard or something to deal with a particular physique. Do you know?

Nifty ties, texas_jack. Are they short? Bobby's of Boston has boxes of similar old ties with gorgeous prints. But sadly, they're all very short.

 

[Despos]

Haven't seen this style of trouser pockets, like on the tan twill Huntsman, since the 70's. Forgot about them. Made this style on some of the very first trousers I made for myself. They were popular with several New York tailors in the 70's as well. It is the same as the welt breast pocket on a jacket but done on plain front trousers. Prefer to wear this with beltless trousers. I really like this british tan twill made up as a DB suit.

Emptym,
The diagonal strip of lining is there to support the pocket rather than the vents. Shipped a half lined suit to Florida last month that we finished the interior identical to this. We always do this on topcoats or soft cloths like cashmere. On topcoats and soft cashmeres we put a strip from the armhole to the lower pockets to support them.

 

[dopey]



Haven't seen this style of trouser pockets, like on the tan twill Huntsman, since the 70's. Forgot about them. Made this style on some of the very first trousers I made for myself. They were popular with several New York tailors in the 70's as well. It is the same as the welt breast pocket on a jacket but done on plain front trousers. Prefer to wear this with beltless trousers. I really like this british tan twill made up as a DB suit.

Emptym,
The diagonal strip of lining is there to support the pocket rather than the vents. Shipped a half lined suit to Florida last month that we finished the interior identical to this. We always do this on topcoats or soft cloths like cashmere. On topcoats and soft cashmeres we put a strip from the armhole to the lower pockets to support them.

That makes sense to me. Mine does not have that diagonal anchor strip. On mine, the front top corner of the pocket is anchored to the facing, but the back top corner is anchored into the seam allowance of the underarm dart/seam. I am not sure if that accomplishes the same thing, but I think it might, since the tape runs to the side seam. Despos?

BTW, I have had trousers with front pockets like the ones on the Huntsman suit for years. The first were made by Dege on a pair of 22oz Bedford cord trousers, but I get them regularly on my summer suits from WInston Tailors. Ambrosi does some with a variant of this as well (well just the horizontal shape, otherwise finished differently), and combines them with a single pleat, which I think looks kind of cool.

 

[Despos]

Dopey,
Saw the horizontal pocket with pleated trousers for the first time this year. They were from a shop in Rome. Don't recall the name now. Not sure if I think it is cool or not. They were shown to me and were not being worn at the moment. Would have to see this on someone to form a better opinion.

The more common horizontal type of trouser pockets here are called western pockets. Variations are to run straight into the side seam or have a hook type vent/opening just before the side seam which makes it easier to access the pockets. I prefer this on my plain front trousers. May have to make a pair with the welt pocket again. I like front patch pockets on trousers too.