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Fresco Suit for Humid Summer - French-faced or Bemberg Front?

Sir Kurokodairu

New Member
Nov 6, 2018
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I'm planning to get a suit made with a Fresco III fabric, in either 9oz or 9/10oz, for the upcoming summer in Hong Kong, where it gets hot (up to 35 C in June) and very humid. I don't endeavor to put on the jacket at the peak of the heat, but hope to make the suit as cool as possible, given a fabric weight of reasonable drape, so I can at least endeavor, when in need of formality, to put on the suit sooner when I enter indoors or take it off later when exit, and also so I can wear it outdoors more on less-hot days (below 30 C).

I'm pretty much determined to line the sleeves and upper back (butterfly/quarter-circles) with Bemberg/Cupro, since these two areas are quite essential. However, I'm on the fence on whether to line the front with Bemberg or with the Fresco fabric itself (self-lined / French-faced), as I'm wondering if a French-faced front would be cooler. I've had a suit made in Dormeuil's Tropical Amadeus (8 oz) with the front French-faced, whose frontal area felt considerably warmer than one made with Kerry Knoll, Summon, Collection 231 (7 oz) with the front lined with Bemberg. Both fabrics were high-twist and quite see-through. I'm not sure if the extra warmth was due to the 1 extra oz, due to the fact that it was self-lined, or due to other reasons. I've also read that self-lined can be cooler depending on the fabric, and I wonder if Fresco would be cooler self-lined.

1) So, do you think a Fresco 9/10 oz suit would be cooler self-lined/French-faced in the front or lined with Bemberg?
2) Anyone know if the Fresco III's 9/10 oz fabric might actually be cooler than their 9 oz? Judging by the swatch book, the 9/10 oz is actually more see-through, despite being heavier.

Any advice would be appreciated.
Last edited:


Senior Member
Sep 29, 2015
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Use lining. Splitting hairs with the weight differences. I don't think you'd be able to tell the difference.


Distinguished Member
Mar 11, 2014
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Definitely lining. French faced would put more material over your chest, exactly where you would want less...

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