French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by poorsod, Apr 28, 2013.

  1. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    Last I checked, Arny's were still doing bespoke out of a separate space by appointment only.
     
  2. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    The Smalto looks very nice.

    Carl - what led your father to French tailors? Did he live in Paris?
     
  3. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    both are quite nice.
     
  4. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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  5. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    It sounds like you have been looking for a more affordable alternative to CdL (which I think is your best suit by far) and it is quite understandable given the price. What type of cloth are you using for the copies? Have you tried using the old fashioned heavy full bodied London Lounge type cloths? I wonder if it might be easier for a cheaper non-CdL tailor to get the cleaner look that you seek with a fuller bodied cloth. CdL and other great tailors can get you the ideal look, no matter the material, but that is why you pay them the premium.
     
  6. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  7. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Come to think of it, I beleive Cifonelli RTW used to be D'Avenza, not St. Andrews. I think I have a cashmere blazer from that period, and it's not as nice as the recent Caruso stuff for Cifonelli.
     
  8. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    It boggles the mind. Thanks for posting the pics.
     
  9. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I see you made no mention of Smalto bespoke in your review. Does he not offer true bespoke any longer, or have you simply not used their service?
     
  10. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    I simply have no Smalto bespoke in my wardrobe as yet. No Isaia either for that matter.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2013
  11. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    :rotflmao:

    I tried to photograph that shirt you sent me but couldn't get the details. Now that I have some extension tubes for my camera I think I can pull it off, if you wouldn't mind commenting them, as you are the shirt expert.
     
  12. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    So far the issue in replicating the CdL cut has not been fabric choice, although I do agree that a lesser tailor will have an easier job of it getting a suit to fall right using a heavier cloth.

    The issue I've faced has been their simple ability to copy/paste the trademark lapel and collar shape, which none of them have gotten right so far. Granted, I'm a maniac, measuring down to the millimeter each proportion of the lapel line. Given that most MTM tailors are accustomed to a 5 mm tolerance on just about every measurement (i.e. it's the accepted practice that the factory doesn't have to redo the jacket if a measurement is off by 5 mm or less), I think it's come as a surprise to all of them that I was pushing to redo the trademark lapel, which I didn't consider a true resemblance. A common mistake was the angle of the stitch between the collar and lapel. On a CdL collar, the edges of the collar and the stitch form 3 sides of a perfect rectangle -- this is so striking and so trademark that I was continually upset that the MTM tailors were missing it, showing me that they really didn't take more than 2 seconds to look at what Camps has done.
     
  13. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    i will be happy to comment on your photos
     
  14. chocsosa

    chocsosa Senior member

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