Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by poorsod, Apr 28, 2013.
Last I checked, Arny's were still doing bespoke out of a separate space by appointment only.
left is feruch
right is smalto
my right arm is much longer then my father's was.
The Smalto looks very nice.
Carl - what led your father to French tailors? Did he live in Paris?
both are quite nice.
To give you some colour, I've just posted some very personal reviews of French tailors, shirtmakers and bootmakers on my Tumblr blog:
It sounds like you have been looking for a more affordable alternative to CdL (which I think is your best suit by far) and it is quite understandable given the price. What type of cloth are you using for the copies? Have you tried using the old fashioned heavy full bodied London Lounge type cloths? I wonder if it might be easier for a cheaper non-CdL tailor to get the cleaner look that you seek with a fuller bodied cloth. CdL and other great tailors can get you the ideal look, no matter the material, but that is why you pay them the premium.
my father was in France during WWII.
became a bit of a francophile
not sure how he found these tailors without the help of the internet.
I guess the old fashioned way. He must have asked other well dressed men.
Come to think of it, I beleive Cifonelli RTW used to be D'Avenza, not St. Andrews. I think I have a cashmere blazer from that period, and it's not as nice as the recent Caruso stuff for Cifonelli.
It boggles the mind. Thanks for posting the pics.
I see you made no mention of Smalto bespoke in your review. Does he not offer true bespoke any longer, or have you simply not used their service?
I simply have no Smalto bespoke in my wardrobe as yet. No Isaia either for that matter.
I tried to photograph that shirt you sent me but couldn't get the details. Now that I have some extension tubes for my camera I think I can pull it off, if you wouldn't mind commenting them, as you are the shirt expert.
So far the issue in replicating the CdL cut has not been fabric choice, although I do agree that a lesser tailor will have an easier job of it getting a suit to fall right using a heavier cloth.
The issue I've faced has been their simple ability to copy/paste the trademark lapel and collar shape, which none of them have gotten right so far. Granted, I'm a maniac, measuring down to the millimeter each proportion of the lapel line. Given that most MTM tailors are accustomed to a 5 mm tolerance on just about every measurement (i.e. it's the accepted practice that the factory doesn't have to redo the jacket if a measurement is off by 5 mm or less), I think it's come as a surprise to all of them that I was pushing to redo the trademark lapel, which I didn't consider a true resemblance. A common mistake was the angle of the stitch between the collar and lapel. On a CdL collar, the edges of the collar and the stitch form 3 sides of a perfect rectangle -- this is so striking and so trademark that I was continually upset that the MTM tailors were missing it, showing me that they really didn't take more than 2 seconds to look at what Camps has done.
i will be happy to comment on your photos
awesome info gents
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