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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by poorsod, Apr 28, 2013.

  1. HighToned

    HighToned Senior member

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    The problem is that they relaunched their RTW with a private fashion show for Spring Summer 2015 during Paris fashion week.

    They don't got too much press, and no international buyers bought their collection.
    It's quite normal since they're changing everything... factory in Italy (no more Caruso), new designer John Vizzone, new visual identity...etc

    They have SS 2015 collection in sales now at the old store (just re-new since two weeks). It's little bit late.
    Ready-to-wear business is very different with bespoke business. I hope they'll be ready earlier this season.

    Good news ! They will open a new store in one of the most beautiful street of Paris.
     
  2. Zeppelin

    Zeppelin Senior member

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  3. Amine

    Amine Member

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    Smalto has always been the tailor of our King since Hassan II, as you may have noticed with the Parisian lapels and the roped shoulders.
     
  4. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior member

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    I will be there Q2. Am I missing something?
     
  5. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior member

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    Which street would that be? Or are you sworn to secrecy?
     
  6. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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  7. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Camps de Luca was originally the King's tailor. Smalto used to work for Camps. The legend is that one day the King was frustrated by the delay it would take to have an order made, so Smalto went to the King and promised to deliver it quicker on his own. The King became Smalto's personal client and helped him set up on his own.
     
  8. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    I just can't get over how clean anything made by one of the famed Parisian tailors looks. To be sure, the Brits and Italian also make fine custom wonders, but I've yet to see as consistently clean lines as by the French. I wonder how much The Group of Five was influenced by haute couture's hyper perfectionism. This thread blows minds like the Japanese bespoke shuu thread does.
     
  9. IndianBoyz

    IndianBoyz Senior member

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  10. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

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    No just that I doubt they'll put things on sale
     
  11. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Good point. French tailoring is a sharp look which may not be to everyone's taste, now that neapolitan easy elegance is in style. But let's not confuse style with tailoring precision. Sometimes, as with certain neapolitan traits, something that starts out as a tailoring mistake is spun back to clients as a stylistic choice, which then catches on to become the new norm.
    In France, tailors don't seems to be as concerned about following trends -- rather like the japanese, they tend to worship perfect craftsmanship. It's the timelessness of the approach which I personally find so appealing, and which has even led me to acquire some (true) 3 button bespoke jackets recently, because of their timeless classicism. I know 3b is out of favour, but French elegance to me is about perfect elegance which will hold up to the passing of time. Our community sometimes forgets that even neapolitan tailors have house cuts which are actually much more conservative and classic than what we seem to think of as 'neapolitan' style today. E.g. the exaggeratedly sloped shoulder will look dated at some point In the not too distant future, after the neapolitan moment has passed. French bespoke style, on the other hand, which has never really had a moment -- certainly not in the US in any case -- may be ripe for the limelight starting in 2015.
    At PG, we certainly hope to contribute to making it better known worldwide, as France has amazing artisan across a great number of specialties.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2014
    2 people like this.
  12. HighToned

    HighToned Senior member

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    It will be on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (but I keep the cross street secret. I think they will soon sign the lease agreement. ^^)

    I'm wondering how they will manage their collection. To do sales ? keep on E-Shop ?
    Wait & see !
     
  13. HighToned

    HighToned Senior member

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    I think French tailors were pretty lucky with the second golden age of Haute Couture era.
    They got the best seamstress from all over the world (Italia, Spain, North Africa, Eastern Europe...) coming to the French capital to work in Haute Couture.

    You take the two best tailors in Paris. Cifonelli and Camps de Luca, they're multi-cultural tailors.
    For example Cifonelli, it's a mix between Italian tailoring (Giuseppe Cifonelli), British tailoring (Arturo Cifonelli), and the new generation Massimo and Lorenzo push by the Parisian couture vision.

    The more I think about it, I would prefer to use the word Parisian tailoring than French tailoring.

    Just to see the communication of Camps de Luca. And you will understand that British and Italian tailors will be always in the limelight. ; )
     
  14. HighToned

    HighToned Senior member

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    And just for the pleasure... Monsieur le Patron, Gabin !

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. mack11211

    mack11211 Senior member

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    No, but French RTW certainly had one, from the late 60s through the end of the 70s with Pierre Cardin, Pierre Balmain, YSL, Dior, Givenchy, etc. If you look at this Barneys shirt ad from the mid 70s, about a quarter of the names on the labels are French. Most French designers diffusing their names had no background in custom tailoring, but at least one did: Gilbert Feruch. Cardin defined the silhouette of the 70s, which was, yes, precisely fitted and so part of the same style heritage. I've seen Cardin RTW shirts from his first USA diffusion line circa 1970, with the body panels and single linked cuffs -- otherwise they would catch on your super-small coat sleeves. So there is a cultural memory of this French style in the USA.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2014
  16. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Do any of the french tailors ever come state-side?
     
  17. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think Cifonelli was first in Rome and later Paris. True?
     
  18. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Lorenzo told me his grandfather moved from Rome to Paris in 1926.
     
  19. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    But there was a Cifionelli shop in Rome in the 50's and 60's. May still be there run by cousins or some distant relative

    this from an online source

    Cifonelli is a luxury, family owned fashion house now in its fourth generation, founded by the legendary tailor Giuseppe Cifonelli in Rome in 1880. Cifonelli's son Arturo was the true stylist of the business. Arturo was sent to school in London, and hence these suits are a mixture of beautiful Italian lines and classic British strictness and rigidity.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2014
  20. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    ^they closed the shop in Rome. Rubinacci purchased some of the vintage fabric IIRC
     

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