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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by poorsod, Apr 28, 2013.

  1. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Simon Crompton's Cifonelli

    http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2011/03/final-tweed-jacket-from-cifonelli.html#.UYZgdqKG18E

    To me it looks to have more drape than I would have expected from Cifonelli.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Simon Crompton's Cifonelli DB
    http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2012/10/photos-from-permanent-style-drinks.html#.UYZk16KG18E

    I didn't find his write up about making of his Cifonelli DB, so I wonder if it is RTW.

    [​IMG]

    Additional Cifonelli DB Jacket details (a different coat it seems) with a nice Milanese lapel buttonhole.
    http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2012/02/cifonelli-jacket-in-detail.html#.UYZjpKKG18E

    [​IMG]

    Simon Crompton in A&S and Hugo Jacomet in Cifonelli
    http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2011/10/welcome-hugo-jacomet-parisian-gentleman.html#.UYZkFqKG18E

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2013


  2. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Arnys, sadly now gone.

    Flusser intro on Arnys
    http://books.google.com/books?id=xR...0CD8Q6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=flusser arnys&f=false

    From a later page Flusser writes:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    RJMan's article about Arnys and its recent acquisition by LVMH.

    http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2012/07/au-revoir-arnys.html

    Arnys Forestiere. Because all the cool kids have one (or more).
    Some info
    http://www.keikari.com/english/arnys-forestiere/

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I've tried on the Forestiere several times over the years but just couldn't like it. I preferred this style instead.

    [​IMG]


    Arnys Buttons
    I learned from Arnys about how great buttons can determine the entire look.

    From RJMan's coat
    [​IMG]

    From Ville Raivio's write up
    [​IMG]
     


  3. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    In that last pic, Crompton's A&S does look smarter than the Cifo, which appears quite blocky. Could just be HJ's body shape.
     


  4. mack11211

    mack11211 Senior member

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    Last edited: May 5, 2013


  5. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

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    Di Fiore, Brano and some others are not at the price level of Cifo and Camps which makes it more affordable.

    But amongst young French guys in their 20s/30s, many go MTM starting with Artling, Handson, Gambler, Ohnona, Les Dandys, Diagne and so many others. Prices range from 500€ to 2000€ (starting price I mean) and quality varies greatly.

    You're right however since I own 1 Camps and 1 Cifo but approximately 10 Sartoria Ripense. I could save the money for 2.5 Ripense suits and order a Camps instead but well, I had to build my wardrobe first. Now I've got a significant number of nice pieces and I also enjoy very much working with Andrea Luparelli from Sartoria Ripense which makes me think that I'll see later for another Camps, even if it still remains my greatest experience everything. The price tag is just that high for me and I consider myself already very fortunate to own one.
     


  6. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I think the Crompton's A&S DB also looks better than his Cifonelli DB.


    You might be right that they are the same. I was thinking about this for a while and wasn't sure one way or the other.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2013


  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Thanks for your reply. Would you have any pics of your CdL?
     


  8. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Re price-tag, it is increasingly rare that I should hear of, let alone meet, any actual French clients of Camps or Cifonelli. I hear there are some, but I'm beginning to suspect it's an urban legend... It seems like the whole business has gone international: Russians, African rulers, Gulf, Asia, etc.

    Nevertheless, for those less well-heeled, there is an abundant local offering of made-to-measure tailoring, at just about every price. It's actually a business that's on the up and up in Paris. It seems like every young kid is starting up a business selling made-to-measure shirts and/or suits, trying to capture the current menswear spending bubble. With made-to-measure prices that are now pretty much in line with what the average man is willing to pay for a ready to wear suit, most parisians are buying made-to-measure suits at the low end of the price range. The guy who seems to have cornered the market is Gambler, who sells ten-thousand €500 MTM suits a year out of a 10 m² hole in the wall at Madeleine. Close second is Handson around the corner.
     


  9. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Last edited: May 5, 2013


  10. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Last edited: May 5, 2013


  11. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I wear my fathers suits from Smalto and Feruch.
    if you saw them in person, you would understand why NSM turns me off.
    strong shoulders, fully padded canvas, but with a high armhole.
    needle work is sublime.

    i will take some photos of my father's shirts from Lanvin. these date back to the 70's/80s
    the finest shirts i have ever seen. they put charvet to shame..
    RJman sent me a recent version(last 5 years) shirt from lanvin.
    not even close in work man-ship

    .
     


  12. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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  13. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    alternatively you can have Chinese making them in Italy...
     


  14. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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  15. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    Dirnelli:

    When you say you've had the lapels "recut" to resemble the CdL shape on your other suits, do you mean that you ordered it that way when you had them made, or are they somehow altered from a peak lapel into that Parisian shape?

    Great tumblr, BTW. I've followed you.
     


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