French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by poorsod, Apr 28, 2013.

  1. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    Thanks for this HighToned. Do you have any sense of whether the bespoke house style is more staid than the RTW? It seems like they are very focused on the U.S. market and providing top notch bespoke service to clients here. The RTW stuff is a little fashion-forward for me but the workmanship looks beautiful.
     
  2. HighToned

    HighToned Senior member

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    Berluti kept the "Rive Gauche" style of Arnys. It's quite softer on the structure, more casual and colorful than others tailors in Paris.
    They still taking care of Arnys bespoke customers. I saw many silk linings with Arnys initials reserved for old customers.

    Arnys family didn't have much succession to take care of the business. Alfredo Orlandi was in charge at the atelier at this time. He is very kind old timer with eager to share his tailoring skills. He should be retired but he still wants to work.

    Mr Alfredo Orlandi chooses to push Karim Rehabi to be in charge so they can save the history of Arnys.
    Tailor, Karim Rehabi is travelling all over the world to promote French tailoring. I don't think the focus is on US, they send him in Asia also or a lot in the new shop in London.

    Berluti wants to provide a full bespoke service. Either it's for a suits, shoes, jeans, shirts, coats, tuxedos, sport jackets and trench coats...
    Alessandro Sartori didn't touch the bespoke style. But he designed few bespoke garments to provide advices to new customers. Those garments are on display at Berluti shops.

    On the RTW side, designer Alessandro Sartori incorporate few aspects of Arnys tailoring such as leather buttonholes, inner pockets details but yes the RTW is fashion forward.
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2014
  3. IndianBoyz

    IndianBoyz Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Arnys Rive Gauche
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2014
  4. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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  5. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    Can he make things levitate with his mind?
     
  6. DMHG

    DMHG New Member

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    Le Bespoke Tailoring de notre pays nous confectionne un art onéreux et d’un autre temps, est pas du tout dans le courant actuel. Le savoir-faire dans la grande-mesure est incontestable et nous sommes au summum de l’art artisanal. Mais ce n’est pas suffisant.
    C’est la même chose comme si tu te mettais un costume de Humphrey Bogart, il semblerait ancien, déphasé, et le plus distrait te dirais "bien qu’élégants, je te voie un peu bizarre…". Par contre si ma femme se mettait une robe de Lauren Bacall elle serait simplement ridicule. La mode masculine, évolue très lentement et certains en profite pour s’endormir. Un petit dépoussiérage ne ferait pas de mal.
     
  7. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    An update on the process of Duret. They don't accept credit cards, so non-Parisian clients have to wire euros just like with Passaggio Cravatte or Vass. Once they receive your trial belt and your wire transfer, details are confirmed in writing. Now for the waiting...
     
  8. Amar ezzahi

    Amar ezzahi Affiliate Vendor

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    A few pics of Jean Rotin, french tailor from Marseilles:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    (the lapels will not be that large)
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2014
  9. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    What a shame! Would have been LIKE A BAWS!

     
  10. Amar ezzahi

    Amar ezzahi Affiliate Vendor

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  11. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    Lanvin

    Lauwers starting @ 4:04:

    Lauwers con't and then the tailors @ 2:44:
     
  12. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    FYI, current issue of WWD has an article on Parisian tailors...
     
  13. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    Thanks for posting kuro. I just read it. I never realized camps was so much more expensive than cifo. Interesting to read about cifo's ready to wear plans, and of course they have pictures of the qilian jacket in yak wool, which I'm hoping to have the bravery to order when Lorenzo visits in a few weeks.
     
  14. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior member

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    Kuro, any chance of a link to that article?
     
  15. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    ^need a subscription to read it online, but a couple of photos floating around the net..

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     

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