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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by poorsod, Apr 28, 2013.

  1. HighToned

    HighToned Senior member

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    I enjoyed the Professional tv show of NHK on tailor Kenjiro Suzuki... Some part was very interesting, with nice explications.

    I was disappointed when they showed Camps de Luca building, but Cifonelli atelier... I really wanted to see Smalto bespoke workshop, too bad. They only showed pictures.


    For people in Japan, Kenjiro Sukuki is doing a two speechs at Wako Ginza, then he will be available for Bespoke order.
    http://www.wako.co.jp/news/458?back=0



    I think people asked in this post for pictures of Dimitri Gomez shoes. I went two times to his atelier be annoying with him and took few pictures.

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    Last edited: Dec 15, 2013


  2. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    The Rake's owner, Wei Koh, in his Cifonelli bespoke suit. Looks like a mess.

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    Last edited: Dec 16, 2013


  3. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Thanks Kuro for posting the NHK story about Kenjiro Suzuki, that was fascinating to watch.

    Here's some more content to fuel the thread:

    1) A customer review (in French, with pics) of an ex-Smalto tailor who has set out on his own:

    http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/post/70201958390/guest-post-in-french-follower-benjamin-reviews

    2) Thrift bragging rights pic of a Cifonelli bespoke DB coat:

    http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/post/70567436717/even-though-i-am-no-longer-buying-clothes-there

    3) Does anybody have feedback to contribute on the new bespoke act in town, Emmanuel Vischer, who has set up in the old Rovito shop ?
     




  4. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    P.P.S. Does anyone have experience to share about Rambure, Guilson, or Diagne?
     


  5. Romain

    Romain Senior member

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    A friend has a suit made by David Diagne (text is in French) : http://engrandepompe.forumpersos.com/t1049-experience-chez-un-tailleur?highlight=expérience

    Here are also a few pictures of a visit of his workshop and dinner we had with him a few years ago : http://engrandepompe.forumpersos.com/t1189-david-diagne-tailleur-a-paris?highlight=diagne

    He is very friendly and talented. The cut reminds me of Smalto and Kenjiro Suzuki, a little more affirmed than Suzuki (e.g. wider lapels), very soft (no shoulder pad).
     


  6. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior member

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    Never pay RRP?

    Are you saying you turn up at a place like Cifonelli and ask for a discount? How do they react?
     


  7. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    By that, I mean that I buy RTW only during sales, clearances, online, auctioned or thrifted.
     


  8. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior member

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    Thanks so much for that SeamasterLux.

    I am going to Paris next October and my first place to go to will be Cifonelli. I plan to buy two jackets and was going to make that Travel Jacket one of them. However, I am a well rounded person and am concerned about the tight fit of their jackets. Should I be?
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2013


  9. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior member

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    Thanks.

    I am surprised these guys discount. Even in the sales.
     


  10. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    The Cifonelli house cut is notoriously tight around the chest, in part due to the shoulders which are turned forward. However, given the excellence of their tailoring skills, I am sure that they are quite accustomed to cutting perfectly fitting suits for all body types. Be prepared to feel a suit that fits tight however, since that is their style. It can catch certain customers off guard if they are used to loosely fitting suits. Once you become accustomed to tighter fitting suits, it's hard to go back and, if you're like me, you end up taking in your entire wardrobe.
     


  11. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior member

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    Thanks for the reply.

    Being a classic "V" shape (unfortunately upside down though) I shy away from tight fitting clothes. It will certainly be a new experience.

    Anyway, I have ten months so hopefully I can drop a couple of chins in the meantime.
     


  12. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior member

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    I brought the crazy red lace Aubercy when I was there in November. Now just waiting for it to show up.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2014


  13. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

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    Indeed, they stuffed me into a 50 as a guess and approved. Skin like, indeed, in the chest.
    I wonder what size I am now with my incredible mass up?

    I cannot recall a Cifo on someone who is very misshapen or extremely portly. I think the short and tight style of today is not so great for some bodies but Cifo should do a spot on job no matter the client. At least i would expect so.
     


  14. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Dirnelli do you have pics of your cifonelli RTW? When do they have their RTW sales and what is the price point? Thanks.
     


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