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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by poorsod, Apr 28, 2013.
Now he works for Berluti.
Seamasterlux - This is great. Do you happen to have more pictures of the cuffs that you can post? Is that felt on the inside and only exposed when you roll the sleeve? I think I might make one of these my next cifonelli commission.
I've been lurking on (and loving) this thread for a bit and finally decided to make an inquiry about Charvet demi-mesure shirts. I apologize if this is redundant as I haven't had time to scour all twenty something pages of the thread thus far, but I was mostly curious about the process vs. full bespoke and if there was a minimum order for demi-mesure. I will be in Paris this December for approximately one week and have been lusting after some much needed upgrades to my shirt wardrobe. Given my love for the Charvet items I already own, the fabric choice, and the lack of a proper window of time for full bespoke, this seems to be the way to go. Also recent pricing details would be much appreciated just so I know how much I may have left over for some ties, hopefully bespoke.
There is no minimum at Charvet. I'm not sure about demi mesure, but the lowest price on full mesure is around 400 euro. Pricing depends on fabric.
Thanks very much. That should leave me with a few shirts and some accessories given that I'm not out for any outlandish fabrics (though I could be swayed upon seeing the cloth in person).
I was also considering a visit to Cifonelli to look at RTW suits. From what I've seen here, the styling and quality are what I'm looking for considering there aren't sufficient funds for full bespoke at the moment (student life). My only concern is that the fabric be something conservative and versatile (most likely a navy as I have several suits ranging from dove grey to charcoal already). Does Cifonelli RTW have much in the way of more conservative fabric suits? The creations portion of the website is awe inspiring, but only seems to showcase more elaborate bespoke work.
Grande mesure starts at E550 I was told when I rang a month or so ago. Would you not try Lucca or Courtot? If you ring up you could get a shirt and a fitting in the week. They both do unfused [non-thermocollé] and will handsew the buttons for you as Charvet do.
Are you serious with that statement about 'student life'?
Grab a reality check. Then again, in this kind and gentle world you will go along just fine with no repercussions regardless.
Are you truly concerned that Cifo will not have a 'conservative' navy fabric to meet your needs?
Back to the library for some more study.
Then again, if you are already able to afford some of the finest sartorial pleasures in the world as a student(but not quite the very best in bespoke, boo hoo), I'm sure you will be well off regardless of your knowledge base.
And, yes, it is possible that Cifo does not have a suit you prefer in your proper size at the very time you visit but then you can take a flyer and check Smalto or Hartwood or whomever. Though I wonder, do they stock suits in any navy fabric?
That does sound enticing. I recall reading a bit about them in the earlier pages of this thread and the possibility of getting it done in one week makes it that much more more appealing. Thank you.
On another note, I will have to look more into Hartwood.
As recently as September a demi-mesure shirt at Charvet in category iv fabric is EUR395 (and by the way their demi-mesure fits me better than the bespoke shirt that they made for me ).
Mary Frittolini is now based in Paris, Fassbinder says her bespoke shirts are even better than Lucca and Courtot.
Didn't know she was in Paris fulltime. Another option and would offer significantly more handwork than Charvet, or indeed other makers.
She has been living in Paris since August and is trying to make it happen fulltime but I don't think a permanent move has been finalized yet. In any event, even before she was living here she was basically visiting Paris once a month which was enough for my needs.
You're absolutely right, It's totally hidden unless you roll the cuff. Mine is in navy suede but they can put of course any color of leather.
Why would you go to Cifo RTW? It's made by Caruso and sold at a premium, I don't really see the point.
Honestly, if you want well made suits in RTW, do target (especially on sale) Corneliani, Pal Zileri and Canali. They're very good value for money (on sale).
Otherwise, if you're thinking about spending the kind of money that would cover a Cifo RTW, do walk a few more blocks up to Jean-Manuel Moreau and order a MTM Orazio Luciano - La Vera Sartoria Napoletana. You'll pay a tad less and get a beautiful napolitean cut.
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