French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

[dirnelli]



By the way - this thread sorely needs some shoes. Anyone with bespoke Dmitri Gomez that they can show off?

Here you go. I am selling these Dimitri Gomez bespoke if anyone is interested, size 8,5 UK

500€

900€ (hardly ever worn)

These and a bunch of other really nice pairs of shoes I'm selling (Aubercy, Berluti, Weston, Green, Stefanobi, Corthay), all in great condition, are all on display at Julien Scavini's boutique, if anyone wants to try them on.

EDIT: The Corthay sold today, gone.

 

[Griffindork]



Actually, you can get a Camps style suit at Cifonelli, for just over half price, from master tailor Gabriel Gonzales, whose own tailoring house was absorbed by Cifonelli some years ago. Gonzales makes a suit in the Camps de Luca style because he learned from them and considers them to be the benchmark. One of the main workers at Cifo, Robert, is a carryover from Gonzales' workshop. So yes, the Cifo house style has little in common with the CdL house style, but the CdL style is more representative of the parisian tailoring style, as embodied by disciples of CdL, such as Gonzales, Urban, Rousseau, Guilson, Di Fiore, and even Smalto. All of those guys do the parisian notch lapel. On the other hand, Cifo is doing the SR style with a twist.

I'm not exactly sure what you are saying. Cifonelli has brought together the old camps team, but as I understand it all cifonelli bespoke suits are cut by either Lorenzo or massimo. That cut is distinctive and doesn't look like camps. I'd be surprised if you could walk into cifonelli and have Gabriel cut you a suit (and I'd be very surprised if you could get cifonelli bespoke for half the price of camps).

 

[dirnelli]

It won't be called a Cifonelli suit. It will be called a Gonzales suit, will be cut by Gabriel Gonzales, and sells for about 3500€ IIRC. Gonzales still has legacy clients (some prominent French CEOs for example) which he continues to serve. Cifonelli as such possesses all of the old Rousseau and Gonzales patrons, and can continue to produce them on request. However, as the workers who used to make those suits retire, and as the current workforce focuses more on the Cifonelli cuts, it's likely that the older styles will be gradually phased out -- barring the occasional tailoring geek like myself who might go there to specifically request one of the older cuts.

In the younger generation, the 3 tailors who perpetuate the older style are Kentjiro Suzuki, David Diagne and Brano.

Marc Di Fiore and Guilson are close to retirement.

Smalto will be producing their signature cut for still some time to come.

 

[Kuro]

Still possible to get the Rousseau cut at Marbeuf?

 

[dirnelli]

Yes, in theory.

 

[HighToned]

Still possible to get the Rousseau cut at Marbeuf?

You should be quick Kuro ! Gabriel Gonzales is close to retiring... He is still working because he is passionate.
Personally, I will feel weird If I walk in to Cifonelli and ask Mr. Gonzales to do a Rousseau cut.... but why not ! ; )


This week, I visited French shirtmaker Charvet.
I really enjoyed to spend 2 hours at Charvet, Mrs Colban nicely showed me all the floors.

The room for bespoke shirt service is mind blowing, it's full of fabrics from the floor to the ceiling.
It's crazy you feel like a kid in a candy store.

I was a little bit disappointed by the grumpy tailor, but Charvet is a shirtmaker house after all.

Those are few of my pictures for the people that are not in Paris... You can check my full article here

 

[ShayaEXQT]

Wow! That place is incredible. Thank you so much for the pictures.

Do they make bespoke ties as well??

 

[TheTukker]



Wow! That place is incredible. Thank you so much for the pictures.

...

+2

 

[HighToned]

Do they make bespoke ties as well??

I'm not sure about that...

Each year they produced around 4.000 or 5.000 different neckties.
On the first floor, there is so many colours, so many pattern, it's ridiculious !

 

[Kuro]

HT - I was just curious about whether the rousseau cut was still available.

davesmith - yes, charvet makes them. the bespoke ties...

 

[SeamasterLux]

Wow! That place is incredible. Thank you so much for the pictures.

Do they make bespoke ties as well??

Hey there ;-)

Of course they do. Choice is more limited though but it's not very expensive, approximately 30-40€ more than RTW

They also RTW ties on demand. They used to do it for free but when I brought back 15 old Charvet ties, they started charging 20-25€ for it, which was more than fine to me.

 

[SeamasterLux]

Thought we didn't have so much Cifonelli on the thread so here we go for their travel jacket in heavy donegal tweed, back of the collar and cuffs in navy suede.

 

[Stugotes]

I'm not too keen on the details, but the fit is stunning!

 

[poorsod]

Is that travel jacket RTW or bespoke?

 

[SeamasterLux]

Is that travel jacket RTW or bespoke?

It is bespoke, part of the line of 15 jackets they have created (Parisian Gentleman had covered that a few years ago: http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2012/08/31/cifonelli-contemporary-bespoke/)