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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by poorsod, Apr 28, 2013.

  1. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Here you go. I am selling these Dimitri Gomez bespoke if anyone is interested, size 8,5 UK

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    500€

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    900€ (hardly ever worn)

    These and a bunch of other really nice pairs of shoes I'm selling (Aubercy, Berluti, Weston, Green, Stefanobi, Corthay), all in great condition, are all on display at Julien Scavini's boutique, if anyone wants to try them on.

    EDIT: The Corthay sold today, gone.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2013


  2. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    I'm not exactly sure what you are saying. Cifonelli has brought together the old camps team, but as I understand it all cifonelli bespoke suits are cut by either Lorenzo or massimo. That cut is distinctive and doesn't look like camps. I'd be surprised if you could walk into cifonelli and have Gabriel cut you a suit (and I'd be very surprised if you could get cifonelli bespoke for half the price of camps).
     


  3. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    It won't be called a Cifonelli suit. It will be called a Gonzales suit, will be cut by Gabriel Gonzales, and sells for about 3500€ IIRC. Gonzales still has legacy clients (some prominent French CEOs for example) which he continues to serve. Cifonelli as such possesses all of the old Rousseau and Gonzales patrons, and can continue to produce them on request. However, as the workers who used to make those suits retire, and as the current workforce focuses more on the Cifonelli cuts, it's likely that the older styles will be gradually phased out -- barring the occasional tailoring geek like myself who might go there to specifically request one of the older cuts.

    In the younger generation, the 3 tailors who perpetuate the older style are Kentjiro Suzuki, David Diagne and Brano.

    Marc Di Fiore and Guilson are close to retirement.

    Smalto will be producing their signature cut for still some time to come.
     


  4. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    Still possible to get the Rousseau cut at Marbeuf?
     


  5. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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  6. HighToned

    HighToned Senior member

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    You should be quick Kuro ! Gabriel Gonzales is close to retiring... He is still working because he is passionate.
    Personally, I will feel weird If I walk in to Cifonelli and ask Mr. Gonzales to do a Rousseau cut.... but why not ! ; )


    This week, I visited French shirtmaker Charvet.
    I really enjoyed to spend 2 hours at Charvet, Mrs Colban nicely showed me all the floors.

    The room for bespoke shirt service is mind blowing, it's full of fabrics from the floor to the ceiling.
    It's crazy you feel like a kid in a candy store.

    I was a little bit disappointed by the grumpy tailor, but Charvet is a shirtmaker house after all.

    Those are few of my pictures for the people that are not in Paris... You can check my full article here


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    Last edited: Oct 20, 2013


  7. davesmith

    davesmith Affiliate Vendor

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    Wow! That place is incredible. Thank you so much for the pictures.

    Do they make bespoke ties as well??
     


  8. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    +2
     


  9. HighToned

    HighToned Senior member

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    I'm not sure about that...

    Each year they produced around 4.000 or 5.000 different neckties.
    On the first floor, there is so many colours, so many pattern, it's ridiculious !
     


  10. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    HT - I was just curious about whether the rousseau cut was still available.

    davesmith - yes, charvet makes them. the bespoke ties...
     


  11. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

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    Hey there ;-)

    Of course they do. Choice is more limited though but it's not very expensive, approximately 30-40€ more than RTW

    They also RTW ties on demand. They used to do it for free but when I brought back 15 old Charvet ties, they started charging 20-25€ for it, which was more than fine to me.
     


  12. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

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    Thought we didn't have so much Cifonelli on the thread so here we go for their travel jacket in heavy donegal tweed, back of the collar and cuffs in navy suede.

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  13. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

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    I'm not too keen on the details, but the fit is stunning!
     


  14. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Is that travel jacket RTW or bespoke?
     


  15. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

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