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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

Romain

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It's funny how the description of the Cifo/CdL workshops kind of reminds me of each one's style, one is busy and almost aggressive (not in a pejorative way, of course) while the other is more quiet and subtle.

Mr. Kenjiro Suzuki? His work is awesome... Did you see the vicuna coat he's been working on? Just crazy. Very chic, I'd love to commission something as well but I'll wait a bit.

Yes, he showed it me but his employee (not his wife, another young woman) was working on it, so I couldn't really see the shape of the coat. Of course the fabric was amazing... His work really looks nice.

Berluti never reply to my many emails...

Aubercy will offer in december a bespoke service at their boutique in Rue Vivienne.

I guess Berluti might have a very controlled PR policy...

Regarding Aubercy, I read that the bespoke would be provided by a Japanese bootmaker (would it be Koji Suzuki?) do you know anything more about it?

I really enjoyed working with Delos and the last shoes that he made for me are the best fitting oxfords that I've ever owned.

I don't remember seeing them on the Delos thread... Any picture available?
 
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Kuro

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^there was another Japanese shoemaker had his shoes on display at aubercy recently. perhaps it is he (his name escapes me at the moment)?

there are photos of the 2 that delos made for me on this page: http://www.styleforum.net/t/187914/...ciation-thread-bespoke-only/1740#post_6217653
 

Kuro

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Masaru Okuyama, IIRC
 
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HighToned

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Yes both Cifonelli and Camps de Luca got their style and atmosphere.
You just have to pick the one you like the most...


Mr. Kenjiro Suzuki is very busy, he just open and he got many orders.
He also got the first channel in Japan (NHK) that is following him from morning to night during 3 months.

His works looks amazing !


Well Berluti is in the same building that Cifonelli !
Arnys welcome me to visit their tailoring place but at that time I wasn't in France.

Berluti opens his door to the public (or press) during LVMH Journées Particulières but only Bespoke shoes.
Weird PR stunts...


Yes, Aubercy will have a Japanese shoemaker. But it's not Koji Suzuki or Masaru Okuyama.
Just wait 2 months, and you will know.... ; )
 

Romain

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If nothing changed, last time I was rue Marbeuf Berluti was just across Cifonelli. Did they move?

Yes, I'd love to go to the Journées Particulières, but you have to save spots online and they go very (VERY) quickly...

Kuro: great balmorals! And you're right, I mixed up Masaru Okuyama and koji Suzuki.
 

Kuro

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Berluti bespoke workshop and I think some offices are in the same building as Cifo...

Thx.
 
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Kuro

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aah the bright colored Delos shoes trees make an appearance.:)

I like the bottom pair in the first photo and I spy his signature model in the last photo.
 

HighToned

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Nicolas has really great suits in lovely fabrics actually, I was more than pleasantly surprised. I do not always agree with PG but this time, it's a nice find indeed.

Yes and he is passionate about his brand...
Thank god It's not PG that discovered it.

By the way, Arnys ex-store will serve as the Berluti HQ for bespoke, dixit the salesman rue Marbeuf

OK, Berluti Bespoke shoes will stay at Rue Marbeuf and "Berluti by Arnys" bespoke tailoring will be Rue de Sevres ....

But with 14 tailors in house, how they gonna manage Bespoke order for 10 flagship store around the world ?!


Any thoughts on 200 suits exclusively made for Berluti with "Grand Cru 1663" cloth of Vitale Barberis Canonico ?
 
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SeamasterLux

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Any thoughts on 200 suits exclusively made for Berluti with "Grand Cru 1663" cloth of Vitale Barberis Canonico ?

Marketing for Russians?

I wouldn't even think of buying it as it will probably cost the same as a Camps de Luca suit. Their handwork is not bad at all but it's overpriced. Same goes for the leather jackets they have.
 

SeamasterLux

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What is this Nicola's shop you two are talking about?

Husbands in Paris. It's at 8 rue Manuel, 75009

Quite off the beaten path.

Nicolas, the owner, sells suits made in Italy, fully canvassed made out of fox flannels for most of them. He choses the fabrics, the lining, the buttons himself and the best only. He's now working with Jessica de Hody for the buttonholes so it's even much better now. Beautiful products and he's producing my size (EU 44) which is a miracle for me.

I just purchased a tuxedo there.
 

Romain

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Husbands in Paris. It's at 8 rue Manuel, 75009

Quite off the beaten path. 

Nicolas, the owner, sells suits made in Italy, fully canvassed made out of fox flannels for most of them. He choses the fabrics, the lining, the buttons himself and the best only. He's now working with Jessica de Hody for the buttonholes so it's even much better now. Beautiful products and he's producing my size (EU 44) which is a miracle for me.

I just purchased a tuxedo there. 

Ah yes, I read about them both (and no it was not on PG haha ;) )
 

dirnelli

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One thing that shouldn't get lost in this thread is that outside of both being bespoke and both being French, I'm not sure that Camps and Cifo are really very similar to one another in terms of styling. I have no experience with Camps, but the pictures don't look like Cifo suits. I would think that the fundamental choice one is making by selecting between those two is one of styling (that is certainly the choice that I made). If you like the Camps style more than the Cifo, or vice versa, then it is very easy to select on over the other.


Actually, you can get a Camps style suit at Cifonelli, for just over half price, from master tailor Gabriel Gonzales, whose own tailoring house was absorbed by Cifonelli some years ago. Gonzales makes a suit in the Camps de Luca style because he learned from them and considers them to be the benchmark. One of the main workers at Cifo, Robert, is a carryover from Gonzales' workshop. So yes, the Cifo house style has little in common with the CdL house style, but the CdL style is more representative of the parisian tailoring style, as embodied by disciples of CdL, such as Gonzales, Urban, Rousseau, Guilson, Di Fiore, and even Smalto. All of those guys do the parisian notch lapel. On the other hand, Cifo is doing the SR style with a twist.
 
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