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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by poorsod, Apr 28, 2013.

  1. Romain

    Romain Senior member

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    It's funny how the description of the Cifo/CdL workshops kind of reminds me of each one's style, one is busy and almost aggressive (not in a pejorative way, of course) while the other is more quiet and subtle.

    Yes, he showed it me but his employee (not his wife, another young woman) was working on it, so I couldn't really see the shape of the coat. Of course the fabric was amazing... His work really looks nice.

    I guess Berluti might have a very controlled PR policy...

    Regarding Aubercy, I read that the bespoke would be provided by a Japanese bootmaker (would it be Koji Suzuki?) do you know anything more about it?

    I don't remember seeing them on the Delos thread... Any picture available?
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2013


  2. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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  3. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    Masaru Okuyama, IIRC
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2013


  4. HighToned

    HighToned Senior member

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    Yes both Cifonelli and Camps de Luca got their style and atmosphere.
    You just have to pick the one you like the most...


    Mr. Kenjiro Suzuki is very busy, he just open and he got many orders.
    He also got the first channel in Japan (NHK) that is following him from morning to night during 3 months.

    His works looks amazing !


    Well Berluti is in the same building that Cifonelli !
    Arnys welcome me to visit their tailoring place but at that time I wasn't in France.

    Berluti opens his door to the public (or press) during LVMH Journées Particulières but only Bespoke shoes.
    Weird PR stunts...


    Yes, Aubercy will have a Japanese shoemaker. But it's not Koji Suzuki or Masaru Okuyama.
    Just wait 2 months, and you will know.... ; )
     


  5. Romain

    Romain Senior member

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    If nothing changed, last time I was rue Marbeuf Berluti was just across Cifonelli. Did they move?

    Yes, I'd love to go to the Journées Particulières, but you have to save spots online and they go very (VERY) quickly...

    Kuro: great balmorals! And you're right, I mixed up Masaru Okuyama and koji Suzuki.
     


  6. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    Berluti bespoke workshop and I think some offices are in the same building as Cifo...

    Thx.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2013


  7. HighToned

    HighToned Senior member

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  8. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    aah the bright colored Delos shoes trees make an appearance.:)

    I like the bottom pair in the first photo and I spy his signature model in the last photo.
     


  9. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

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    By the way, Arnys ex-store will serve as the Berluti HQ for bespoke, dixit the salesman rue Marbeuf
     


  10. HighToned

    HighToned Senior member

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    Yes and he is passionate about his brand...
    Thank god It's not PG that discovered it.

    OK, Berluti Bespoke shoes will stay at Rue Marbeuf and "Berluti by Arnys" bespoke tailoring will be Rue de Sevres ....

    But with 14 tailors in house, how they gonna manage Bespoke order for 10 flagship store around the world ?!


    Any thoughts on 200 suits exclusively made for Berluti with "Grand Cru 1663" cloth of Vitale Barberis Canonico ?
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2013


  11. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

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    Marketing for Russians?

    I wouldn't even think of buying it as it will probably cost the same as a Camps de Luca suit. Their handwork is not bad at all but it's overpriced. Same goes for the leather jackets they have.
     


  12. Romain

    Romain Senior member

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    What is this Nicola's shop you two are talking about?
     


  13. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

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    Husbands in Paris. It's at 8 rue Manuel, 75009

    Quite off the beaten path.

    Nicolas, the owner, sells suits made in Italy, fully canvassed made out of fox flannels for most of them. He choses the fabrics, the lining, the buttons himself and the best only. He's now working with Jessica de Hody for the buttonholes so it's even much better now. Beautiful products and he's producing my size (EU 44) which is a miracle for me.

    I just purchased a tuxedo there.
     


  14. Romain

    Romain Senior member

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    Ah yes, I read about them both (and no it was not on PG haha ;) )
     


  15. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Actually, you can get a Camps style suit at Cifonelli, for just over half price, from master tailor Gabriel Gonzales, whose own tailoring house was absorbed by Cifonelli some years ago. Gonzales makes a suit in the Camps de Luca style because he learned from them and considers them to be the benchmark. One of the main workers at Cifo, Robert, is a carryover from Gonzales' workshop. So yes, the Cifo house style has little in common with the CdL house style, but the CdL style is more representative of the parisian tailoring style, as embodied by disciples of CdL, such as Gonzales, Urban, Rousseau, Guilson, Di Fiore, and even Smalto. All of those guys do the parisian notch lapel. On the other hand, Cifo is doing the SR style with a twist.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2013


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