French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

[SeamasterLux]

my Camps, worn recently in Paris

 

[SeamasterLux]

One of the most extraordinary things I've ever heard Charlie Davidson of the Andover Shop say was that the best suits in Europe were from Camps de Luca. It's striking given his vast experience over 80 years with style and clothing.

Dirnelli, I was reading your highly informative and comprehensive reviews of different suits and tailors: http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/post/49814477662/review-of-tailors-and-suits-ive-owned The handwork, as both Charlie and JefferyD would agree, is unsurpassed, and perhaps matched only by a few other tailors in Paris. But I was curious about how the bespoke experience at Camps exceeded your expectations, compared to the other famous tailoring houses. You mentioned that other bespoke experiences left you feeling somewhat unsatisfied, but that Camps more than met what you wanted I was wondering how they did so (perhaps in commitment to getting the fit right, and other respects)? I think Paul-Lux had a similar experience, as RJman relates.

Indeed my experience is pretty similar in the sense that Camps is much better than all the others as far as I'm concerned.

I understand you may want to know why but there is not a single reason. Here are mine:
- Marc de Luca is the only true gentleman I've ever met in tailoring, meaning he will never criticize other tailors, nor over-advertize his product (albeit being the best out there in my opinion), he is very humble and a very knowledgeable man. Stepping into their apartment is not like visiting any place, it's a journey where you'll learn a great number of things, regardless of how much you already know. There is an atmosphere that settles once you sit down in one of the two chairs surrounding a small table with a direct view on the Madeleine church and Marc de Luca greets you and goes through fabrics with you. I can't explain to be honest and I've tried several bespoke tailors from Cifonelli to Sartoria Ripense (my 2nd favorite) and also including Anderson & Sheppard and Gieves & Hawkes. It's just something else in terms of experience to start with.
- The cut is breathtaking. I can look at my suit from every angle, I'll never be dissatisfied. I just love it. The lapel notch is my favorite, the buttonholes are exquisite, very fine and far superior to any you'll see in Italy and England, and I don't feel my suit when I'm wearing it. I also recently played snooker in that suit and felt very comfortable at all times. I also love the look of the shoulder style.

I could also detail what I didn't like with others but I guess it's not the point.

 

[ThinkDerm]



Indeed my experience is pretty similar in the sense that Camps is much better than all the others as far as I'm concerned.

I understand you may want to know why but there is not a single reason. Here are mine:
- Marc de Luca is the only true gentleman I've ever met in tailoring, meaning he will never criticize other tailors, nor over-advertize his product (albeit being the best out there in my opinion), he is very humble and a very knowledgeable man. Stepping into their apartment is not like visiting any place, it's a journey where you'll learn a great number of things, regardless of how much you already know. There is an atmosphere that settles once you sit down in one of the two chairs surrounding a small table with a direct view on the Madeleine church and Marc de Luca greets you and goes through fabrics with you. I can't explain to be honest and I've tried several bespoke tailors from Cifonelli to Sartoria Ripense (my 2nd favorite) and also including Anderson & Sheppard and Gieves & Hawkes. It's just something else in terms of experience to start with.
- The cut is breathtaking. I can look at my suit from every angle, I'll never be dissatisfied. I just love it. The lapel notch is my favorite, the buttonholes are exquisite, very fine and far superior to any you'll see in Italy and England, and I don't feel my suit when I'm wearing it. I also recently played snooker in that suit and felt very comfortable at all times. I also love the look of the shoulder style.

I could also detail what I didn't like with others but I guess it's not the point.

What did you not like about Cifonelli?

 

[SeamasterLux]

What did you not like about Cifonelli?

I wouldn't say that there was something I didn't like about Cifonelli, it's just one step below (although slightly).
The cut is great, the details are magnificent as well and the experience was good overall.

My preference goes to Camps as I have more respect for the man himself and for his approach to tailoring and also for the comfort of the suit.
Once again, not that my Cifonelli isn't pleasant to wear, it's just not the same feeling.

I think the relationship you have with your tailor is also important in the experience so it doesn't really matter at one point what you're reading on the internet, just go out there and discuss with the tailors, you'll get an opinion and a feeling by yourself and that's what's important.

 

[Kuro]

^Interesting comments on CdL comfort...

I'd like to add that sometimes there is a bit of a bustling atmosphere at Marbeuf. The vibe at CdL seemed calmer when I visited ...

I really hope that isn't taken by anyone the wrong way.

 

[fassbinder]

Here is another photo of me in a bespoke suit from Marc Di Fiore, dormeuil super brio mohair. Photo by dirnelli.tumblr.com

 

[SeamasterLux]

Here is another photo of me in a bespoke suit from Marc Di Fiore, dormeuil super brio mohair. Photo by dirnelli.tumblr.com

Because I think that's a funny fact, I'll post this picture where you'll see that we were photographed at the same spot ;-)

 

[HighToned]

Yes, the atmosphere at Cifonelli and Camps de Luca are very different.

There is always a lot of things going on at Cifonelli. The phone is ringing, lot of customers are passing by, in the cutting room they're all in front of each others.

Because of the architecture... Cutting room is separate from the other staff by the entrance.
So you will see people coming in and out to ask for example "Which is the right color of buttonholes" to Massimo or Lorenzo Cifonelli....


At Camps de Luca,
Every rooms of the workshop is connected, so the customer will never see the rest of the staff.
On the cutting room they're not fronting each other, ceilling is higher, the view on Madeleine place is beautiful and there is some music.
You got an appointment, it's quiet atmosphere, the chance of meeting other customers are rare.

In my opinion, Camps de Luca's place is perfect for tailoring, location, design of each rooms, natural lighthing....



SeamasterLux -> Funny to see you wearing a Camps de Luca suit at Nicolas's shop. : )

 

[Griffindork]

Very interesting to hear about the different atmospheres. I've only met Lorenzo in New York, and you have the option to visit him at his hotel, your office or even your home, so it is a very personal, one on one and uninterrupted meeting. I plan to be in Paris next month so I look forward to seeing the hustle and bustle of the mothership.

One thing that shouldn't get lost in this thread is that outside of both being bespoke and both being French, I'm not sure that Camps and Cifo are really very similar to one another in terms of styling. I have no experience with Camps, but the pictures don't look like Cifo suits. I would think that the fundamental choice one is making by selecting between those two is one of styling (that is certainly the choice that I made). If you like the Camps style more than the Cifo, or vice versa, then it is very easy to select on over the other.

 

[Griffindork]

By the way - this thread sorely needs some shoes. Anyone with bespoke Dmitri Gomez that they can show off?

 

[Romain]



By the way - this thread sorely needs some shoes. Anyone with bespoke Dmitri Gomez that they can show off?

Fine...

(I'm sorry these were made by Delos, does it work too?)

Otherwise, I met recently with Mr. Suzuki, he is indeed very kind and talented, I hope to have him working for me soon. He told me he is already very busy.

 

[SeamasterLux]

Yes, the atmosphere at Cifonelli and Camps de Luca are very different.

There is always a lot of things going on at Cifonelli. The phone is ringing, lot of customers are passing by, in the cutting room they're all in front of each others.

Because of the architecture... Cutting room is separate from the other staff by the entrance.
So you will see people coming in and out to ask for example "Which is the right color of buttonholes" to Massimo or Lorenzo Cifonelli....


At Camps de Luca,
Every rooms of the workshop is connected, so the customer will never see the rest of the staff.
On the cutting room they're not fronting each other, ceilling is higher, the view on Madeleine place is beautiful and there is some music.
You got an appointment, it's quiet atmosphere, the chance of meeting other customers are rare.

In my opinion, Camps de Luca's place is perfect for tailoring, location, design of each rooms, natural lighthing....



SeamasterLux -> Funny to see you wearing a Camps de Luca suit at Nicolas's shop. : )

Nicolas has really great suits in lovely fabrics actually, I was more than pleasantly surprised. I do not always agree with PG but this time, it's a nice find indeed.

By the way - this thread sorely needs some shoes. Anyone with bespoke Dmitri Gomez that they can show off?

Yes




And some Pierre Corthay bespoke:

Fine...


Otherwise, I met recently with Mr. Suzuki, he is indeed very kind and talented, I hope to have him working for me soon. He told me he is already very busy.

Mr. Kenjiro Suzuki? His work is awesome... Did you see the vicuna coat he's been working on? Just crazy. Very chic, I'd love to commission something as well but I'll wait a bit.

 

[HighToned]

By the way - this thread sorely needs some shoes. Anyone with bespoke Dmitri Gomez that they can show off?

I hope to go visit Dimitri Gomez soon since I'm in Paris. Wait & see for the pictures Agiffy... ; )

Those are my pictures at Pierre Corthay -> http://shar.es/ExYB3 & at John Lobb Bespoke (Paris) -> http://shar.es/ExYUd

Berluti never reply to my many emails...

Aubercy will offer in december a bespoke service at their boutique in Rue Vivienne.

 

[Kuro]

I really enjoyed working with Delos and the last shoes that he made for me are the best fitting oxfords that I've ever owned.

The toe/shape of the Corthay bespoke are a pleasant surprise...

 

[HighToned]

There is any customers of Arnys in SF ?

I always want to visit this house but LVMH buy it then Arnys got incorporated to Berluti.
I only see few pictures in Japanese magazine...

What do you think about the mix of Berluti and Arnys ? Do you know who is in charge of the Bespoke service ?

I recently read that Alessandro Sartori wants to make the first brand with everything "made-to-measure", shoes, jeans, lugages, suits, shirts, coat and hats...

How they gonna manage to offer Bespoke service at 10 flagship store in the world ?