French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by poorsod, Apr 28, 2013.

  1. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    If you minus 20% it must be 4160, but I've heard widely varying accounts of how much CdL are.
     
  2. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

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    RTW is made by Caruso. Bespoke, obviously, is not. This is not to say the quality is poor but they are different.
    Seems as if you are after a Cifo purely for the name. If so, RTW does the trick unless part of the cache is to say it is bespoke and thus imply to the other bankers about the exorbitant cost.

    If you just want one, RTW it is because a week will not get it done in Paris. Of course, you can do NYC fittings and wait it out.
    Contact them for their travel schedule.
     
  3. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    Sorry - I wanted to correct my previous post. I haven't paid less than the amount stated above. I did pick up two Cifonelli suits yesterday and will post pics in the near future.
     
  4. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    I've only had the VAT deducted when I've picked up in Paris. Also, it was less than 20%...
     
  5. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Standard rate of VAT in France is 19.6%, and should be deducted for anything sent abroad or bought there for export out of the E.U. As a consumer you can normally show your air ticket to an ex-EU destination to avail of this.
     
  6. SonofGoldman

    SonofGoldman Active Member

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    Haha I can see where the sentiment usually possessed by bankers would give that impression, and I have misgivings even about bankers ability to detect a brand such as Cifonelli. It seems going after a Cifonelli piece for the cache would be akin to acquiring the more expensive philippe dufour when a 'simple' patek would do. I'm sure brioni or rubinacci has more cache.

    I like the 'look' of cifonelli pieces I've seen, kind of like I like the 'look' of tom ford - but couldn't entertain the thought of wearing one in a work rotation. It's kind of interesting that I while have tried a certain well regarded\but SF-obscure bespoke operation, I get the most approbation for my MTM RLBL (even over RLPL). I'm generally bad at detecting stylistic underpinnings but RLBL has zero drape, no?
     
  7. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    Cifonelli bespoke. The jacket is scabal from the gallery book. The pants are holland and sherry.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2013
  8. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    From a different Cifonelli suit made with Cacioppolli from the "Salt and Pepper" book, some details for those who enjoy such things:
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2013
  9. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    Aggressively-styled double breasted from Cifonelli
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2013
  10. SonofGoldman

    SonofGoldman Active Member

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    That's pretty awesome, thanks for sharing that!

    Do you mind revealing (or pming) what those pieces ultimately cost? the number of fittings - and also what your drop is? Sorry for the deluge of questions! It really looks nice.
     
  11. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    The number of fittings is how ever many it takes for you and Lorenzo (or Massimo) to be happy. It doesn't matter how long it takes. It doesn't matter if you change your mind about something (including something major). All that matters is that you and Lorenzo agree that the garment is finished. And you will be happy before Lorenzo is. He is a perfectionist and sees things that others don't. In my case, the first suit took four fittings (and after the last fitting Lorenzo told me he wanted to raise the collar slightly, which he would do by hand himself in his hotel room, and that I should come back later in the day). After two suits, I feel like he has me pretty perfectly. I have no idea what my drop is as I haven't bought anything other than bespoke in quite some time, but I'm 5'9'', about a 155 pounds. I have relatively pronounced shoulders, but I can say that my wife thinks that Cifonelli makes me look better than I actually do (and I agree).

    As for price, just email Romain at Cifonelli and he will gladly accommodate. My Cifonelli suits cost more than the others I've used, and they deserve to be priced that way. I've used a lot of bespoke artisans, some of whom are very, very good. Lorenzo Cifonelli is in a league of his own. He is truly one of the most talented people I've met. If you are comfortable playing in that space, then his garments are worth every penny.
     
  12. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    BTW -- Cifo prices were revealed upthread.

    5300 € last time I checked.

    Bespoke prices have been steadily on the rise, so it may have creeped up again since.

    It's not cheap, and yet it's funny to see some RTW brands like Kiton, Ford & Brioni pricing themselves in that range.
     
  13. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    ^ that price is a little high, but within spitting distance (and it is very easy to fall in love with a costlier fabric).
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2013
  14. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    Last edited: Oct 12, 2013
  15. OxxfordSJLINY

    OxxfordSJLINY Senior member

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    I find it downright aggravating, nauseating, pathetic and sad (and even crooked and dishonest) that RTW brands like Brioni, Tom Ford and Kiton (which are far inferior to bespoke in every conceivable way; in some-about 1/4 of-cases, quality and/or quantity of handwork are exceptions) are in that price range. I know I am far from the only one that feels this way. :angry: :eek: :( :sarcasm: :sneaky2: :spew: :uhoh:
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2013

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